Notice: wpdb::prepare was called incorrectly. The query does not contain the correct number of placeholders (2) for the number of arguments passed (3). Please see Debugging in WordPress for more information. (This message was added in version 4.8.3.) in /home/enroute/cbnr_enroute_2016/wp-includes/functions.php on line 4146
Best New Restaurants in Quebec City: Kraken Cru | Air Canada enRoute
The 2017 longlist is out! Click here to see this year’s top 10 contenders.
Dish at Kraken Cru restaurant
7

Kraken Cru

Quebec City, QC

Kraken Cru • Quebec City, QC

190 rue Saint-Vallier O. 581-741-9099 Facebook

We’re singing along to a Nino Ferrer tune about pickles and mustard and hard-boiled eggs. Who’s we? One chef, one bartender, 12 hungry locals, one Belgian and a San Franciscan who’s pretending to know the words. That’s a capacity crowd at this oyster and raw bar named after a mythical sea beast.

Debate their aphrodisiac powers, but a dozen fatty oysters from Nova Scotia and PEI with a laser-focused mignonette sure put us in the mood for fun. Kraken Cru is the third Saint-Sauveur den from the gang behind Patente et Machin and L’affaire est ketchup, where most of the cooking happens on an old four-burner electric stove. Here, the half-dozen dishes scrawled on a chalkboard wall are largely raw preparations. It’s a seriously good restaurant run by profoundly unserious Québécois (assuming the vintage life jacket hung inside the bathroom is a joke?).

Chef Olivier Thibault-Allard drapes shallot-vinaigrette-marinated morels over seared slices of ruby-fleshed goat loin. He whips shrimp bisque into mayonnaise in a metal mixing bowl, drops in sweet Sept-Îles shrimp and loads the whole shebang into a toasted split-top hot-dog bun, finished with a wilted sprig of New Zealand spinach: an elevated guédille. Mackerel is packed in salt for three hours, sliced thin and topped with a four-punch combo of radishes, arugula, grainy mustard and freshly grated horseradish that doubles as the most delicious smelling-salt concoction in boxing history.

The bearded barman in a newsboy cap pours an organic grenache gris from the Languedoc that smells so delightful, I nearly slip off my bar stool. We break from feasting on morsels of lobster with caviar and dill oil to fist-pump the chorus of a Billy Joel anthem. Friends of the chef wander in with a gift: a lacquered piranha from the Venezuelan Amazon picked up at a garage sale. Nino Ferrer should write a song about that. We already know the words.

Reserve a table

190 rue Saint-Vallier O. 581-741-9099 Facebook

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Top 10

Presented by American Express Presented by American Express