A Weekend in Whistler, B.C.

All trails lead to great spas, mountain-chic restaurants and summer-only alpine pursuits. No wonder locals come for the winter but stay for the summer.

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When it comes to Whistler, even the so-called light activities are a bit hardcore. But the locally guided alpine hiking tour from the top of the Whistler Gondola – which starts with a half-hour walk to the trailhead – is worth it when capped with a dip in the cool, shallow waters of Lost Lake.

Our skilled masseuse at Taman Sari Royal Heritage Spa was fresh from Jakarta, bringing along traditional natural remedies. Think woodsy Javanese Lulur Body Scrub, a centuries-old favourite of Java’s monarchs; it’s made from scented pandanus leaves, exfoliating rice powder, temu giring root (for soft skin) and turmeric (for cleansing).

Ziptrek Ecotours gave us a whole new perspective as we flew over the forest canopy and rivers along steel ziplines. Would-be mountain climbers can try Via Ferrata, a four-hour climb via metal rungs and fixed cables that takes you to the top of Whistler Peak. (The concept was imported from the Dolomites.)

Snack

Splitz Grill, a local favourite, provides a smoky counterpoint to the more upscale restaurants, though the food is no less sophisticated. (What other burger joint has a Zagat rating?) Teriyaki B.C. salmon, Saltspring Island lamb burgers and other specialties are grilled to order. At Whistler Brewhouse, Dave Woodward has small-batch ales and lagers, like the smooth, straw-coloured Red Truck Beer.

At the Bearfoot Bistro, twentysomething chef Melissa Craig whips up everything from the simple (oysters) to the sublime (five-course tasting menus, including bluefin tuna prepared three ways). Charmingly, owner Andre Saint-Jacques holds the Guinness World Record for opening 21 champagne bottles in under 60 seconds.

Relax

Perched on the emerald-hued, glacier-fed Green Lake, the tiny Edgewater Lodge is almost a local secret. Basic but comfortable rooms give way to a candlelit dining room, where the house specialty – organic venison from a neighbouring farm – is second only to the view of the mountains.

Adara Hotel, a newish boutique outfit, doesn’t take itself too seriously: The mounted resin antlers and rambling rooms marry mountain kitsch with urban loft. There’s no restaurant, but the Adara is just 12 steps (we counted) to the Bearfoot Bistro.

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June officially kicks off summer in the mountains. Here are our favourite hotels, restaurants and activities for the perfect weekend in Whistler. (Bring an appetite.)

Adara Hotel 4122 Village Green, 866-50-ADARA, adarahotel.com
Araxi 4222 Village Square, 604-932-4540, araxi.com
The Bearfoot Bistro 4121 Village Green, 604-932-3433, bearfootbistro.com
Edgewater Lodge 8020 Alpine Way, 888-870-9065, edgewater-lodge.com
Splitz Grill 4369 Main St., 604-938-9300
Taman Sari Royal Heritage Spa 4359 Main St., 604-938-5982, tamansarispa.com
Via Ferrata (through the Whistler Activity and Information Centre) 4010 Whistler Way, 877-991-9988, whistlerblackcomb.com
Whistler Brewhouse 4355 Blackcomb Way, 604-905-BREW, drinkfreshbeer.com
Ziptrek Ecotours (at Carleton Lodge), 604-935-0001, ziptrek.com