The chef: Edward TusonUltimate kitchen tool: An ice cream machine. Photo caption: The lemon curd tartlet with maple cream, served with housemade sorbet at EdGe.

Edward and Gemma Tuson took over an old fish and chips shop in a strip mall at the southern tip of Vancouver Island, painted over the sea-to-sky themed mural (though they left the tree frog in the corner), conceived an haute-yet-homey menu and created a new-style family eatery: the fine diner. EdGe’s rare combination of back-country cool and culinary chops suits Sookies and travelling foodies alike. There’s Chinese five-spice sausage on the charcuterie platter, Lighthouse Lager on tap and root beer ice cream for dessert. Edward Tuson’s lineage as longtime chef at Sooke Harbour House shows through: The coleslaw beneath his panko-crusted squid is made pretty and pungent with nodding onion flowers.

People who tell you, “We get our lamb from friends in Metchosin” are people to be trusted. When the Tusons’ six-year-old daughter points to the couch in the waiting area and says, “If you jump on it, the pillows will come off,” you trust her, too.


6688 Sooke Rd., Sooke, B.C.

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