N˚9

Liverpool House
2501, rue Notre-Dame O.
Montréal, 514-313-6049

Don’t let the chilled-out Matthew McConaughey-on-vacation vibe fool you; this is a serious restaurant with an in-depth wine program and a fiercely dedicated staff. That’s the secret behind the mini-empire created by restaurateurs Allison Cunningham, Frédéric Morin and David McMillan, who also run Joe Beef and McKiernan Luncheonette on this stretch of Rue Notre-Dame, a tomato’s throw from the Atwater Market. The focus is on market cuisine with a nod toward Italy by way of whatever the kitchen feels like. That could mean China (Peking duck), the U.K. (chanterelles on toast) or Dairy Queen (chocolate sundae with sprinkles).
 


N˚10

Stage
1307 Gladstone Ave.
Victoria, 250-388-4222

The small plate/tapas restaurant has become a crowded genre, and standing out requires a flair for the dramatic. Proprietors George and Linda Szasz stick close to the script while adding something new to the repertoire. Delicate ricotta gnudi play creamy spinach off sweet-beet vermicelli. Local clams in a creamy garlic sauce riff on the same theme with caramelized onion performing the sweet role and bacon adding smokiness to the cast. Langos, a kind of Hungarian bannock, is served as dessert with cinnamon sugar, crème fraîche and caramel. Cooking this honest and authentic deserves a standing ovation.

Continue reading about our highlights of 2008.

Write to us: letters@enroutemag.net