Photo by Locanda Verde
Locanda Verde’s chef, Andrew Carmellini, is a celebrity in the food world, but the hotel’s owner, Robert DeNiro, is an even bigger star. The two share a love of authentic Italian cooking, and that’s exactly what’s on offer here at the Greenwich Hotel in Tribeca. Exceptionally well-dressed families occupy the wood-rimmed banquettes, and attractive couples sit in the more intimate back section. Tender pumpkin agnolotti with brown butter and sage get a sprinkle of amaretti cookies for crunch. A simple salad of bitter greens is elevated by the addition of dried cherries, hazelnut and smoked speck, but it’s the roast chicken, cooked in the wood-burning oven, that best captures the homestyle simplicity of Carmellini’s cooking.