Photo by Melissa Hom
I’m staying at the James Hotel in SoHo, so I head downstairs for dinner at David Burke Kitchen. This is all about American cooking with a sense of humour. Remember ants on a log? Burke re-imagines this kid’s snack as bone marrow logs supporting cooked snail ants. He cooks his french fries in smoked beef fat and ages his rib-eyes for 55 days in a Himalayan salt-tiled aging room. Burke’s infamous monkey bread – cinnamon buns cooked with bananas and pecans in a caramel sauce with vanilla ice cream – is served in its own monogrammed tin so you can take it home with you, which is especially easy when home is only an elevator ride away.