Where to Stay / Where to Eat and Drink / What to Do / How to Get Around
Where to Stay
The Imperial
For the heritage
Built in 1931, this five-star hotel features an all-white exterior, marble floors and sprawling lawns dotted with palm trees. Don’t miss three tiers of finger sandwiches and sweets at high tea in the Atrium, whose skylight ceiling and refined English setting are reminiscent of the pre-war era.
Janpath Lane, Connaught Place, New Delhi, 91-11-23341234, theimperialindia.comLodhi Hotel
For the minimalist design
This minimalist palace reflects the classic lines of India’s Mughal past with oversize jaalis (stone screens) and creamy sandstone while dark wood and soft-colour accents reinforce the tranquil mood. Take a dip in the 50-metre lap pool before towelling off for lunch at the breezy Pool Cafe.
Lodhi Rd., New Delhi, 800-103-7333, thelodhi.comThe Roseate
For a romantic getaway
Ground-floor rooms in this sleek hotel come with a private pool deck, and the spa offers couples’ treatments in secluded outdoor areas. Reserve a table at Kiyan, the hotel’s moody restaurant; then unwind with a bubble bath in your soaker tub.
Samalkha, NH-8, New Delhi, 91-11-33552211, roseatehotels.comScarlette
For the cozy quarters
This guest house in the south part of the city offers comfortable, air-conditioned rooms, complete with writing desks. Framed photos on the walls, communal living rooms and welcoming owners will make you feel right at home. Start your day with a home-cooked breakfast in the small front yard.
B2/139 Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi, 91-9582079058, scarlettenewdelhi.comThe Oberoi, Gurgaon
For old-school hospitality
Located 15 minutes from the airport, this property features an art gallery, a salon, a luxury shopping arcade and Amaranta, a fine-dining Indian restaurant. After a day of exploring the city, enjoy a glass of wine and live piano music in the Piano Bar and Cigar Lounge.
Udyog Vihar Phase V, Gurgaon, 91-124-2451234, oberoihotels.comLeela Palace New Delhi
For the rooftop infinity pool
Soak up views from the rooftop pool overlooking the diplomatic enclave at this upscale hotel. For the full royal treatment, book one of the 18 suites, which include service from a dedicated butler.
Diplomatic Enclave, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi, 91-11-3933-1234, theleela.comWhere to Eat and Drink
Indian Accent at the Manor
For modern Indian cuisine
Tuck into tandoor-fired, bacon-wrapped prawns served with wasabi cream, a highlight from Manish Mehrotra’s Chef’s Tasting Menu. Save room for the chocolate balls spiked with Old Monk rum, arguably India’s most significant gift to the world.
The Manor, 77 Friends Colony, New Delhi, 91-11-43235151, indianaccent.comPhoto: Chris Goldberg / Creative Commons
Paranthe Wali Gali
For the street food
This lane in Chandni Chowk is chockablock with food stalls dedicated to parathas, Indian breads stuffed with savoury fillings. Try the paneer (cheese), methi (fenugreek) and bhindi (okra) parathas from stall number 36.
Old DelhiOlive Bar & Kitchen at the Qutub
For Sunday brunch
This Mediterranean-inspired garden restaurant is a Delhi classic for its proximity to the towering Qutub Minar monument and for its setting in a restored haveli (mansion). On Sundays, the sunlit courtyard buzzes as the brunch crowd dines on thin-crust pizza.
Haveli no. 6-7, Kalkadass Marg, Mehrauli, New Delhi, 91-9810235472, olivebarandkitchen.comPiano Man Jazz Club
For live jazz
This 1950s American-style bar serves Sazeracs that are as smooth as the jazz. Take in an acoustic live gig while sipping New Orleans-inspired cocktails.
B-6-7/22 Safdarjung Enclave Market, Opposite Deer Park, Safdarjung, New Delhi, 91-9871549653, thepianoman.inSaravana Bhavan at Connaught Circus
For authentic South Indian far
The kitchen at this no-frills eatery doles out dosas (paper-thin rice pancakes) faster than you can use them to mop up their famous coconut chutney. Be warned: Wait times can be long, and reservations are not accepted.
P-13, Connaught Circus, Connaught Place, New Delhi, 91-11-8844305, saravanabhavan.comBlue Tokai Coffee Roasters
For a perfect brew
Tea-loving Delhi gets a java jolt with Blue Tokai, a coffee shop that roasts single estate beans from Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. Their quaint Saket location is devoted to serving a great brew, which pairs perfectly with a slice of their banana walnut bread.
Khasra 258, Lane 3, Saidulajab, Saket, New Delhi, 91-9821126015, bluetokaicoffee.comYeti, The Himalayan Kitchen
For mountain cuisine
Start with an order of steaming momos (dumplings) at this restaurant featuring Tibetan and Nepalese dishes. For the main event, try the Ema Datchi, made with fresh green chili peppers and cheese sauce, and the Crispy Spinach.
M-20, GK 2, New Delhi, 91-11-41657868Georgia Dakota
For a sweet spot
The humble shelves of salted-caramel brownies, ginger cake, cinnamon swirl banana cake and almond-flour orange cake may look simple, but the proof is in the pudding at this mini-chain bakery. The spiced Belgian chocolate cake should hit the spot for those who avoid wheat.
Shop 5, D Block Market, Vasant Vihar, New Delhi, 91-01149053736, georgiadakota.comWhat to Do
Photo: Rohan Prakash / Creative Commons
Hauz Khas Village
For the artsy flair
Once a residential area, this south Delhi neighbourhood is now home to trendy galleries, cafés and boutiques. Tour the medieval water tank, mosque and tombs of the nearby Hauz Khas complex; then pop into Elma’s Bakery for a slice of carrot cake.
Hauz Khas Village, New DelhiPhoto: Vikram Aiyappa / Creative Commons
Dilli Haat
For the local crafts
The best of Indian handicraft from every state of the country finds a place at this open-air market. Once you’re done haggling for Kashmiri shawls and jute baskets, try juicy pork momos from the Nagaland food stall.
Sri Aurobindo Marg, Laxmi Bai Nagar, New Delhi, dillihaat.net.inPhoto: ccarlstead / Creative Commons
Lodhi Art District
For the street art
Visit the city’s first public art district, where vibrant murals from more than 28 international artists are displayed on the walls of Lodhi Colony. Located between Khanna Market and Mehar Chand Market, the vibrant street art has reinvigorated the neighbourhood.
Olivia Dar
For the handmade jewellery
At this eponymous shop from a Christian Lacroix-trained designer, look for embroidered cuffs (think necklace meets collar) and accessories inspired by 10th-century tribal beading.
5A Jungi House, 1st Floor, Shahpur Jat, New Delhi, 91-11-405-01899, oliviadar.comPhoto: Courtesy of the National Gallery of Modern Art, New Delhi
National Gallery of Modern Art
For the cultural experience
Situated in the iconic Jaipur House, the National Gallery of Modern Art features work from 1850 onwards, including works from old masters like Raja Ravi Varma and Abanindranath Tagore. Don’t miss the permanent collection featuring over 100 pieces from Amrita Sher-Gil, a pioneer of the modern art movement in India.
India Gate, New Delhi, 91-11-233-82835, ngmaindia.gov.inPhoto: Nadir Hashmi / Creative Commons
Lodhi Gardens
For the ancient history
Explore the ancient tombs, Mughal ruins and gardens next to the Islamic Centre; then relax with bellinis and homemade fig ice cream at the Lodhi Garden Restaurant.
Lodhi Rd., Lodhi Gardens, Lodhi Estate, New DelhiAshdeen
For fashion-forward saris
Ashdeen Lilaowala’s saris are reviving traditional Parsi Gara embroidery. Lilaowala travelled through Iran and China to trace the origins of the intricate craft, resulting in next-level saris that are bringing elegance back: a cheeky flash of skin winking through folds of heirloom-worthy satin, stitched with cascades of flying cranes.
B-12, First Floor, Green Park Main, New Delhi, 91-99993-88442, ashdeen.comHow to Get Around
Getting from the Airport
As you exit Indira Gandhi International Airport, you’ll see taxi stands for Meru Cabs and Mega Cabs. Beware of so-called private taxis, which might not be registered legally.
Taxis
Cabs are the preferred mode of transportation in Delhi. Black and yellow cabs (called kaali peeli) are easily hailed, while mobile apps Uber and Ola offer reliable, user-friendly service.
Meru Cabs: 91-44224422 Mega Cabs: 91-41414141Delhi Metro
Quick, clean and efficient, the Delhi Metro offers great connectivity and is an easy way to navigate the city. The first car of every train is reserved for female passengers, but women are free to travel in the general compartment as well.
delhimetrorail.comRickshaw
Auto-rickshaws are most commonly found outside metro stations but can be hailed anywhere on the street. Negotiate a fare with the driver before boarding.