A Weekend in Stanhope, Prince Edward Island

Easy-to-spot signs dot the route of the Points East Coastal Drive on Prince Edward Island with such frequency that it’s almost impossible to get lost. Little wonder, then, that we couldn’t rent a car with GPS. During our leisurely drive around the island’s eastern tip, we went from the charmingly preserved historic settlement of Orwell Corner to the Singing Sands of the Basin Head beaches and o’er the grass-topped dunes near Panmure Island Lighthouse without driving into the Atlantic Ocean once. What we did do was enjoy the molasses-slow pace of life and some mighty fine local seafood.

Photo: Tourism PEI/John Sylvester

Cape Bear Lighthouse famously received a distress call from the Titanic, but these days it’s more celebrated for its iconic views of red cliffs and Nova Scotia across the Northumberland Strait. Pocket change will gain you access to the few flights of narrow stairs leading up to the automated lantern, still used as a beacon for ships in the night.

“It’s a good day out; the sands should sing for you today,” said the woman at the Basin Head gift shop. The sand’s naturally occurring quartz content is what makes the noise as you walk on it, though, to be honest, it’s more of a squeak than an enchanting chorus. The sprawling white stretch ­ is just one of 32 pristine beaches along the Points East Coastal Drive.

Rick’s Fish ’n’ Chips and Seafood House in St. Peters Bay is a must-eat before making the trip back to Charlottetown. After fuelling up on fresh fried fish, clams, scallops and PEI twice-fried potatoes, you’ll feel like you’ve experienced the island in all its simple, crunchy glory.

Photo: Amy Rosen

The Great Gatsby-esque setting, with contented golfers enjoying perfect sunset cocktails, charmed our argyle socks off at the Inn at St. Peters. But so did the continental Canadian cuisine: Think pistachio-crusted rack of lamb with baby blue potatoes, grilled oyster mushrooms and a fig gastrique.

From the Montague Marina, you can take the Cruise Manada seal-watching boat tour that motors down the Montague River to Whiteman’s Point, where we spotted a large seal colony. While passing socks of famous Island Blue mussels suspended just below the water’s surface, we were told there are about 2,270 kilos of the delicious molluscs on each line. Thousands and thousands of lines dot the river.