Eating at Altitude

Located high in the Alps of southern Switzerland, Zermatt, which boasts the longest ski season in Europe, is four hours east of Geneva and five hours south of Zurich. To get here, most drive to Visp and board the red cog train or the Glacier Express. By the time you arrive, you’ll have seen the Alps of Evian and the mansions on Lake Geneva. The air will feel fresh and clear because Zermatt is a car-free town; the only signs of transport are the solar taxis and electric ski buses that shuttle tourists from hotels to the base of the lifts. But let’s get to what really matters, shall we? Can you eat and drink well in Zermatt?

Well, if you can ski, then the answer is yes. The best spots are interspersed among the red and blue runs – perhaps there are great ones in the blacks, I wouldn’t know – where you can ski right up to the tables. The ultimate? Skiing down from Switzerland to eat lunch in Breuil-Cervinia, Italy. Passports aren’t necessary, only credit cards. A word of advice: Postpone lunch until later in the day; a few glasses of German kirsch will affect your sensibilities as much as your wallet. Trust me.

If you’re looking for the most talked-about spot on the mountain, you’ll want to visit Chez Vrony. Originally built as a farm hut, it’s been in the same family since 1901. Directly facing the Matterhorn is a stunning terrace with built-in lounge chairs tilted toward the sun. Each chair has a Vrony-embroidered blanket or bearskin throw, and the food is exactly what you want after a morning of long runs and Alpine air. The menu boasts many variations of rösti (the Swiss version of mashed-up potato cakes). The two best are rösti with speck and eggs and the infamous Geschnetzeltes (stewed veal with mushrooms). Recommended attire: turtleneck, ski boots and designer sunglasses.

Adler, another good pick, is the more laid back of the mountain spots. It’s known for its fried chicken and relaxed atmosphere. As it’s right off the Sunnegga Paradise runs (near the bunny hills), it’s a great choice for families. And hey, everyone likes spaetzle with leeks and bacon, right?

There’s also the Hotel Alex, a Zermatt institution, where European families have been flocking for two generations. Its kitschy decor, oak panelling, large fireplaces and welcoming bar make for a homey setting that’s often filled with young families drinking hot cocoa or the original Swiss Ovomaltine. The restaurant is consistently good, serving French and Swiss locally inspired dishes.

As for bars, Zermatt is tiny, so your choice is limited. Still, it’s hard to imagine a better place for après-ski than Elsie Bar. Elsie has been around for more than 60 years, and you can tell that most of the clientele have been going there for at least half that. My ski instructor articulated it most elegantly: “It’s for old rich people!”

The fact is, though, everything in Zermatt is expensive. But I’d rather have a glass of Billecart-Salmon rosé for $15 than a vodka soda, and if you’re hungry, you can get amazing oysters, smoked salmon and caviar. Besides, it’s not every day you get to sit in the sun 1600 metres above sea level, eating spaetzle and drinking champagne, looking out at the Matterhorn.

Photos: Chez Vrony (top image): Gawaine Draper; Glacier Express: Martha de Jong-Lantink

ZERMATT LINKS

Chez Rony
Findeln, 3920 Zermatt, Switzerland
027 967 25 52
chezvrony.ch

Adler
Findeln, 3920 Zermatt, Switzerland (Map)
027 967 10 58
adler-hitta.ch

Elsie Bar
Kirchplatz 16, 3920 Zermatt, Switzerland
027 967 24 31
elsiebar.ch/

Hotel Alex
Bodmenstrasse 12
3920 Zermatt, Switzerland
027 966 70 70
hotelalexzermatt.com/en.html

Getting There
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