The Experts

Dominique and
Cindy Duby
The molecular gastronomists behind Vancouver’s DC Duby Wild Sweets have led Team Canada in the World Pastry Cup.

Will Goldfarb
Goldfarb once drove 1,050 kilometres for an ice-cream lunch at La Maison Troisgros in France. He’s now conquering New York’s Battery Park with Picnick, two sustainable food kiosks.

David Lebovitz
Author of The Perfect Scoop, Paris-based Lebovitz is the proud creator of Roquefort and honey ice cream (he promises it’s delicious).

Susur Lee
The ultimate scoop from Shang’s executive chef in New York? Rosemary, lavender and honey from Eigensinn Farm in Ontario.

Alex Burgess
The Muskoka-based Riverwalk sous-chef fondly remembers scooping for cash as a youth, but he’d rather forget the crustacean flavour he once tried at a lobster fest.

The Essentials

500 ml whole milk
500 ml 35% cream
1 vanilla bean
8 oz white sugar
8 large egg yolks
1 hand blender
1 saucepan
1 ice-cream maker

Step 1 Boil milk and cream, turn off the heat, then pop in the vanilla bean to infuse for 20 minutes. Keep the lid on to trap the flavour. Strain. Goldfarb recommends Indonesian pods and scorns vanilla extract: “That’s just beans soaked in vodka!”

Step 2 Combine sugar and egg yolks (a hand blender breaks down the ingredients best). Trickle in hot milk and cream, blending as you go. Take your time or you’ll end up with scrambled eggs.

Step 3 Transfer to a saucepan and stir constantly over low heat; you’re aiming for a thick, silky custard. (At any sign of curdling, transfer ingredients to a bowl in a sink filled with ice cubes and whisk for your life.)

Step 4 Cool custard in the freezer, so its temperature drops to around 40°F. Then, says Dominique Duby, “leave covered in the fridge for 24 hours for a homogenous mixture with a developed vanilla flavour.”

Step 5 Churn custard in your ice-cream maker with your added ingredients according to the machine’s instructions. Heaven!

The Added Ingredients

Here’s the scoop on the summer’s best ice-cream flavours:

Minted Pea: David Lebovitz’s Green-Pea Ice Cream from The Perfect Scoop (Ten Speed Press)

  • 1 lb fresh or frozen green peas
  • ¾ cup whole milk
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 1½ cup heavy cream
  • 6 large egg yolks
  • ½ cup lightly packed fresh mint leaves

Bring about 3 quarts of lightly salted water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add peas. While peas are cooking, fill a large bowl half-full with ice cubes and water. After 10 minutes of cooking, drain peas and add immediately to the ice water. After one minute, drain peas in a mesh strainer and remove any pieces of ice.

Warm milk and sugar in the saucepan. Pour cream into a large bowl, add the drained peas and set the mesh strainer over the top. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly whisk the warm milk into the egg yolks; then scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan. Stir the mixture constantly over medium heat with a wooden or heatproof plastic spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula. Pour the custard through the strainer and stir in the cream and peas.

Pour the mixture into a blender, add mint leaves, and then blend until smooth. Press the mixture through a coarse mesh strainer and discard any tough pea skins. You can also pass it through a food mill fitted with a fine disk. Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator; then churn in your ice cream maker, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Perfect Pairing: Use as a garnish for a cold summer soup, such as vichyssoise or cucumber-yogurt soup.

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Dominique and Cindy Duby’s Brown Butter and Banana Ice Cream with Caramelized Pistachios and Pineapple Gelée

  • 1 1/3 pints homo milk
  • 7/8 cup granulated sugar
  • 6 large egg yolks
  • 2 cups banana purée*
  • ¼ cup brown butter

Combine milk, sugar and egg yolks in a bowl, place over a bain-marie and heat to 170°F. Remove from heat, and cool over an ice-water bath. Cover container and place in the refrigerator overnight to mature. Place mix in ice-cream maker and start to churn; add the banana and brown butter when the churning cycle is almost finished.

Cut pineapple gelée into small cubes and cut pistachios into 2 or 4 pieces, depending on size. Add gelée and pistachios to the brown butter banana ice cream and fold until evenly distributed. Store in the freezer until needed.
*To make purée, place bananas whole in the freezer for 24 hours, let thaw and peel off the skin. The flesh will be naturally puréed and less prone to oxidation.

Pineapple Gelée

  • 1/3 pint pineapple juice, cooked
  • 2½ gelatin leaves

Soak gelatin leaves in cold water until soft and pliable; squeeze out excess water and set aside. Line a shallow container with plastic wrap. Heat 1/3 of thepineapple juice in a microwave oven, add the soaked gelatin and stir until dissolved. Add remaining pineapple juice and combine. Pour the mixture into the pan and freeze until needed.

Caramelized Pistachios

  • 1/3 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/3 cup water
  • ½ cup pistachios

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Combine all the ingredients into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil for 1 to 2 minutes and strain. Discard liquid. Spread nuts on a baking tray lined with silicon mat or paper and bake for about 10 minutes or until sugar is hard but nuts are still green in colour. Cool and store in an airtight container until ready to use.

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Alex Burgess’s Lavender and Chocolate-Chip Ice Cream

  • 2 cups 2% milk
  • ¼ cup lavender flowers
  • 8 egg yolks
  • 1 cup white sugar
  • 2 cups 35% cream
  • 1½ cups shaved dark chocolate (we use Callebaut dark chocolate)

Bring milk to a boil and remove from heat. Stir lavender flowers into the boiled milk.
Let steep for 30 minutes. Strain lavender flowers from milk, reserving both flowers and milk. In a blender, purée the reserved lavender flowers and 1 cup of the reserved milk. Strain the lavender from the milk. Discard the puréed lavender and add the infused milk. In a large stainless steel bowl, combine infused milk, yolks and sugar. Over a pot of simmering water, whisk the egg and milk mixture until it reaches a thick custard consistency. Cool custard until room temperature or colder. Whip cream and fold into custard. Pour into ice-cream maker, add chocolate shavings and follow the manufacturer’s directions to churn the ice cream.

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Susur Lee’s Chocolate-Coriander Ice Cream with Roasted Almonds

  • 1 pint 35% cream
  • ½ pint milk
  • ¼ cup crushed coriander seeds
  • 7 large egg yolks
  • pinch of salt
  • 10 oz milk chocolate
  • 2 oz dark chocolate
  • handful of roasted crushed almonds
  • ½ cup sugar 

Bring cream, milk and ¼ cup sugar to a gentle boil with coriander seeds; remove from heat and let sit for 2 hours then strain. Whisk remaining sugar with egg yolks and salt. Add cream mixture into this egg mixture. Return to heat to thicken until it coats the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from heat and slowly add chocolate, whisking until completely melted. Place the mixture on an ice bath, stirring until cool. Allow to rest at least 12 hours in the refrigerator before spinning. Churn the mixture in the ice-cream maker, according to the manufacturer’s directions. Serve sprinkled with crushed almonds.

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Will Goldfarb’s Toasted Brioche Ice Cream

  • 2 1/5 pint milk
  • 6 tblsp milk powder
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 4 ½ tbsp dextrose
  • ½ cup atomized glucose
  • 2 ¾ tbsp trimoline or another invert sugar
  • 3 Indonesian vanilla pods
  • 1 cup of cubed toasted brioche
  • ¾ pint 35% cream
  • 6 large egg yolks
  • 1 ¼ tsp stabilizer
  • 1 ¼ tsp monostearate

Warm milk and milk powder to 77°F and add all the sugars while whisking. Add vanilla and pieces of toasted brioche. Keep warming at medium heat, and at 95°F, add cream. Whisk constantly at 100°F; then add egg yolks. At 110°F, add stabilizer and monostearate. Bring to 180°F to pasteurize. Cool rapidly in an ice bath in a shallow tin in the freezer. Allow to rest for 24 hours to improve flavours and texture. Churn in ice cream maker. (We added a few extra cubes of toasted brioche to the mixture just before the churning cycle was over for extra crunch.)

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