Hong Kong Two Ways

Dinner

Hutong ($$$)

This restaurant’s stone moon gates, calligraphic wood doors and hanging birdcages make you feel like you’ve entered an old Beijing courtyard dwelling. The northern Chinese menu puts a modern spin on classics like “drunken” pigeon (marinated in wine for three days) and the sinus-clearing chili crab.

Yung Kee Restaurant ($)

Founded in the 1940s as a street stall, Yung Kee has evolved into a Cantonese diner-style institution. Book ahead and join an eclectic group of celebrities, executives and families gleefully devouring the house specialty, crispy-skinned roast goose, plus braised abalone and tea-smoked pork.