Hopgood's Foodliner - Toronto
Geoff Hopgood’s oatcakes are giving me emotions. Crisped yet soft, they dissolve into sweet and salty molecules on the tongue. The gently smoked mackerel, with crème fraîche and pickled onion under a scattering of fennel seedlings, lingers a little longer.
The sparse, dark room on Roncey is named for his family’s now-defunct Maritimes grocery chain. Amid the cans of condensed milk displayed on shelves, the ambience here is easygoing and comparatively quiet. It’s even silent, momentarily, when Ryan Gosling and Eva Mendes come in. (Our hostess isn’t the only one left fanning herself in the ensuing pause.)
Known for his luscious last-you-all-day brunches at Hoof Café, here Hopgood presents East Coast comfort food with intimacy and intelligence.