A Weekend in New Brunswick

Photo: Tourism New Brunswick (Historical Acadian Village)

Nothing perks you up like a protein-rich diet. Eager to prove this claim, we headed to the Acadian Peninsula to gorge on oysters and lobster. But there’s another natural resource that’s equally therapeutic: the warmth of the locals. In their lilting lingo, the Acadians sing the praises of their beloved land, a small sliver jutting out between Chaleur Bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. After a hearty meal with your gregarious hosts, go daydream on the beach or take an invigorating walk around the islands of the archipelago. You’ll be surprised by how good you feel.

This month, the Acadian World Congress will honour the vitality and diversity of Acadian culture. Arsenaults, Amiraults and Babineaus from around the world will return to the fold to celebrate their heritage with family reunions galore. If you miss your chance to kick up your heels at one of the parties organized for visitors, take a stroll around the Historical Acadian Village. You can brush up on your history while getting a breath of fresh air.  

Located at the tip of the peninsula, Miscou is a wild, windswept island that feels like the edge of the world. Perched on one end is a lighthouse, one of the oldest in the province, on a beach tailor-made for a getaway. (On a clear day, you can make out the Gaspésie coast on the horizon.) Just the spot for campers, windsurfers and kitesurfers.  

Photos: Tourism New Brunswick (Miscou Island and Hôtel Paulin)

At the Hôtel Paulin, a large Victorian house in the heart of Caraquet, the bubbly Karen Mersereau (an outstanding cook) and her husband Gérard Paulin (the ideal host) instantly made us feel like we were visiting friends. After dropping off our bags in one of 12 rustic rooms, all handsomely furnished with antiques real and faux, we wasted no time in raising a glass of sparkling wine served as an aperitif.

For those who can’t survive without their two daily espressos, the Grains de folie bakery in Caraquet is a godsend. Minutes away from Hôtel Paulin – not even enough time for the sea breeze to mess up your hair – this newly opened shop offers freshly ground coffee, organic bread, deli meats, cheeses and pastries. (The chocolate-cranberry torsade is to die for.) With your appetite sated, it’s time to shop in the gourmet food section or browse the adjoining bookstore.

Photos: Tourism New Brunswick (Grains de Folie); Sherrie Graham (Savonnerie Olivier)

In Bouctouche, in the southern part of the peninsula, we couldn’t resist the aromas of fragrant patchouli and fresh spring wheat wafting from the Olivier Soapery. Soaps, shampoos, lotions and creams are prepared with natural ingredients like olive oil (hence, the name of the shop). For a lesson in both chemistry and history, don’t miss the workshop museum’s demonstration of traditional soap-making techniques.