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5 Ways to Experience New Orleans

Order a po'boy, wander under ancient oaks or pull up a seat at a revolving bar.

New Orleans

1. Hotel Monteleone
The family-run Hotel Monteleone first opened in its current French Quarter location in 1908, and ever since has attracted visitors with its elegance and literary appeal – Truman Capote often claimed he was born here (almost, but not). In 1938, noted bartender Walter Bergeron mixed rye, cognac, sweet vermouth, Benedictine and bitters to create the impeccable Vieux Carré cocktail, and it remains one of the great drinks in a city that never cottoned to lite beer. Order one in the hotel's revolving Carousel Bar, which has been rotating patrons at a rate of four revolutions an hour for over six decades.
214 Royal St., 504-523-3341, hotelmonteleone.com

2. Verti Marte
This cramped grocery store and takeout is famed for its po' boys, a locally revered species of sandwich made on French bread that's crusty on the outside and pillowy-soft on the inside. (A loaf is judged by its crunch as much as its taste.) Find a friend to split the foot-long All That Jazz, layered with grilled ham, turkey, shrimp, mushrooms, tomatoes and melted Swiss and American cheese, and drizzled with the shop's original spicy, tartaresque "wow sauce."
1201 Royal St., 504-525-4767

3. Latitude 29
Even though tiki pioneer Don the Beachcomber was originally from New Orleans, this near-tropical city hasn't had a temple dedicated to tiny-umbrella drinks in more than a generation. That changed this fall when Jeff "Beachbum" Berry and his wife Annene opened this spot at the Bienville House Hotel. Try one of the Bum's updated tiki riffs, such as the Espresso Bongo, a rum, coffee and fruit-juice masterpiece.
321 N. Peters St., latitude29nola.com

4. Dickie Brennan's Tableau
A French Quarter balcony, Creole cuisine, a view of Jackson Square: Dickie Brennan's latest spot ticks a lot of boxes. The restaurant shares a building with Le Petit Théâtre and serves sophisticated meals showcasing regional ingredients, like court bouillon accompanied by Louisiana popcorn rice, masa-fried oysters with Choron sauce and exquisite crab fingers marinated and chilled in a white-truffle vinaigrette.
616 St. Peter St., 504-934-3463, tableaufrenchquarter.com

Mosquito Supper ClubPhoto: Rush Jagoe

5. Mosquito Supper Club
There's a lot of "cartoon Cajun" fare in the city – over-spiced exaggerations of rustic country food. Bayou-raised chef Melissa Martin offers the real deal, serving her family recipes (like the custard-filled Tart a la Bouillie Pie) twice monthly at reservation-only dinners at the Tigermen Den gallery in funky Bywater. Or bring the kids to the "fais dodo" brunch for your fill of shrimp and grits, seafood gumbo, boudin and zydeco music.
3113 Royal St., 985-720-7630, mosquitosupperclub.com

 


Ducks

3 Cures for the Morning After

Take the St. Charles streetcar uptown to Audubon Park and walk the 2.9-kilometre loop under live oaks bearded with Spanish moss and past lagoons dotted with whistling ducks.
6500 Magazine St., 504-861-2537

The city's most obedient hair-of-the-dog is the creamy Ramos Gin Fizz, a local staple since the 19th century. The Sazerac Bar at the Roosevelt New Orleans has one that will cure what ails you.
123 Baronne St., 504-648-1200, therooseveltneworleans.com

Willie Mae's Scotch House is a neighbourhood joint that's been serving up classic Southern culinary comfort – and arguably the world's best fried chicken – since 1972.
2401 St. Ann St., 504-822-9503

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