Paris Bistros You’ve Never Heard Of

Parisian bistros have been the backbone of the city’s culinary scene for over a century. Today some of the very best are hidden on side streets in tiny unassuming spaces or in off-the-beaten-track neighbourhoods. And, of course, reservations are a must.

At Le Baratin, a postage-stamp-size place with a painted green facade in the slightly gritty neighbourhood of Belleville, Argentine-born Raquel Carena peppers her French bistro cooking with Mediterranean and Moroccan accents. A mostly organic wine list complements dishes like baby artichokes in lemon sauce, ginger guinea fowl or catfish with black radish and tandoori butter. It’s well known that some of the city’s top chefs come here for inspiration on their days off.

3, rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020, Paris, 33-1-43-49-39-70

One look at the art – close-up paintings of fruits and vegetables – confirms the specialty of the house at Le Gaigne: fresh, mostly organic produce cooked to let each ingredient shine. The meat and fish dishes, like cod with chorizo, are equally irresistible. Twentysomething chef Mickaël Gagnon, who worked under celebrity chef Pierre Gagnaire, crafts seasonal menus that change each month at this 20-seater launched last year on the edge of the leafy, always charming Marais district.

12, rue Pecquay, 75004, Paris, 33-1-44-59-86-72, restaurantlegaigne.fr

Gregory Marchand spent time in the kitchens of New York’s Gramercy Tavern and Jamie Oliver’s the Fifteen in London before striking out on his own with Frenchie, an instant hit with Paris foodies since opening last spring. Marchand inflects his bistro cooking with Anglo-American market cuisine sensibilities in dishes like gazpacho with cherries or house-smoked trout with kohlrabi-brown butter purée and pickled onions. Exposed wood beams and bare hanging light bulbs reflect the simplicity of the seasonal menu.

5, rue du Nil, 75002, Paris, 33-1-40-39-96-19, frenchie-restaurant.com

Tucked away just beyond the Bastille in an unassuming corner of the 11e arrondissement, Bistrot Paul Bert somehow makes the most classic dishes feel both comforting and exciting. Amid the artfully scruffy vintage decor, locals (and the odd tourist) dig into pot-au-feu, terrine de campagne and bloody steak frites, washed down with a bottle from the extensive but approachable wine list. Don’t leave without ordering the signature dessert of Paris-Brest, a wildly addictive ring of choux pastry split in half and pumped full of luscious chestnut cream.

18, rue Paul Bert, 75011, Paris 33-1-43-72-24-01

A stylish crowd of culinary adventure seekers worships at the altar of Basque-born bad-boy chef Inaki Aizpitarte. At Le Chateaubriand, his eccentric neo-bistro, you never know what will turn up on the five-course set menu. Each piece of fish or meat might be served sashimi-style, the steak tartare may have peanuts in it and dessert could be a bowl of fruit in cream. It’s not for everyone, but if you stumble in on a night when the stars are aligned, you might just experience the sublime in your plate.

129, av. Parmentier, 75011, Paris, 33-1-43-57-45-95 

Genevieve Paiement lives in Montreal and writes about food and travel for enRoute magazine, The Globe and Mail and The New York Times. Visit her at genpaiement.com.

All photos Meg Zimbeck, who is launching a food and wine website called Paris by Mouth on June 1st, 2010.

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