A Weekend in Gananoque, Ontario

Photo: Image Ontario/Stradiotto

From May to October, the small town of Gananoque (pronounced gan-uh-nock-way) – off the 401, about midway between Toronto and Montreal – comes to life as a gateway to the Thousand Islands. More than 1,800 tree-topped islets poke out of the St. Lawrence River and eastern Lake Ontario, but who’s counting? The islands range in size from small to smaller – some are just big enough to fit the centuries-old houses that sit upon them – but to our surprise, it was days before we hopped in a boat to visit them. With a town like this as your launch pad, dotted with waterside eateries, quaint shops and abundant hiking trails, it’s easy to stay grounded.

A guided tour with the 1000 Islands Kayaking Company is your best bet for up-close views of the islands. Paddle past 19th-century shipwrecks and the mystical Half Moon Bay, where, for more than 100 years, boaters have congregated outdoors on summer Sundays for non-denominational services, complete with a stone podium.

Carved into the rugged landscape of the Canadian Shield, the holes at Smuggler’s Glen Golf Course bear self-explanatory names. Clear 100 yards off the tee on the Gorge or bid farewell to your ball; watch the strength of your drive on the picturesque Rock or you’ll send your ball straight into a massive granite wall. You might feel inclined to hurl your club into the air if the rising and falling terrain weren’t so serene.

Photo: Smuggler's Glen Golf Course; Ann Edgar Photography (Victoria Rose Inn)

At the Trinity House Inn, we savoured our pre-theatre dinner of smoked-duck salad and Lake Erie perch in a saffron cream sauce before heading down to the Thousand Islands Playhouse on the banks of the river for a performance starring local and visiting talent. Reserve your tickets for the Tony Award-winning The Drowsy Chaperone, opening this month.

When they restored the 137-year-old mansion that is now the Victoria Rose Inn, owners Susanne Richter and Bernie Latremouille aspired to create the feeling of an “elegant family home.” The result is a place you’ll want to bring your own family to, with in-suite Jacuzzis and freshly baked croissants alongside heaping bowls of fresh fruit topped with orange zest.

Photos: Thousand Island Playhouse (2009 Production of Les Misérables); Balleycanoe & Co.

Nothing is wasted at Balleycanoe & Co., a farm-cum–architectural salvage workshop in nearby Mallorytown. Browse the massive 19th-century barn and the adjacent studio, where corner blocks and window frames become home furnishings. Smaller pieces, like fragments of stained glass, are transformed into decor objects that owner John Sorensen labels “archifolkart.”  

Here are the addresses you’ll need for a memorable weekend in Gananoque, Ontario.

1000 Islands Kayaking Company 110 Kate St., 613-329-6265, 1000ikc.com
Balleycanoe & Co. 150 Rockfield Rd., 613-659-3874, balleycanoeco.com
Smuggler’s Glen Golf Course 418 1000 Islands Parkway, 800-268-4536, smugglersglen.com
Smuggler’s Run Grill 95 Ivy Lea Rd., 613-659-4334
Thousand Islands Playhouse Corner of Angle Charles St. and South St., 866-382-7020, 1000islandsplayhouse.com
Trinity House Inn 90 Stone St. S., 800-265-4871, trinityinn.com
Victoria Rose Inn 279 King St. W, 888-246-2893, victoriaroseinn.com