Flightgeist

The Departure Diet

Why it’s worth rethinking how we refuel in the airport.

By Arjun Basu
Illustrations by Stéphane Poirier

Our Airworld expert eats his way from one airport to the next.

I like to eat. It’s part of my job. I even like to eat at airports. Oh, stop laughing. If you travel a lot, you can’t avoid eating at an airport. And in our food-conscious world, airports that deliver healthy eating options are looking at big money.

If you’re like me, however, the temptation to just fill up without thinking about your waistline is hard to resist. If we are different people when we travel (as I’ve suggested in a previous column), then we aren’t ourselves when making food choices at airports either.

But, really, isn’t there more to life than a sandwich or a slice of pizza? Vancouver and Seattle-Tacoma airports both offer sushi. A lot of airports do. Fast, easy, portable and, most importantly, not smelly. Those of us who bring food on our flights might want to think about that. Departing from Montreal as often as I do, I’ve had my share of an aircraft overcome with the waft of Schwartz’s smoked meat. Now, normally, I imagine heaven kind of smells like Schwartz’s. But if you’re flying hungry or just want a little peace, the overpowering aroma of meat can drive you batty.

The airport in Memphis is redolent of barbecue. What better way to sense that you've arrived?

enRoute’s resident Healthy Traveller Harley Pasternak loves Tokyo’s Narita airport “because it’s got some great sushi restaurants and delicious teppenyaki instead of just burger joints.” I’ve also heard that Copenhagen and most Italian airports have tasty, healthy options. Gordon Ramsay has opened up a spot in Heathrow’s Terminal 5 called Plane Food. Todd English has restaurants at Boston Logan, LaGuardia and JFK. And Wolfgang Puck is practically ubiquitous in Airworld, though his menu has definitely veered into the fast-food realm.

The airports in Memphis and Austin are redolent of barbecue ­– not the healthiest option but mouth-watering. Too bad the barbecue in Austin’s airport is actually pretty lame compared to what you can find in the city, but it sure smells good. What better way to sense that you’ve arrived someplace than to smell its food?

Harley Pasternak recommends Asian over typical fast food wherever you go. Sorry, Harley, but I’m not eating Asian in, say, Philadelphia (another airport with a good food court). What’s a trip to the City of Brotherly Love without a Philly cheese steak? Sure, it’s not that healthy. But I’m in travel mode. And I’m digging in.


The AB List

The people, places and things that make travelling a whole lot better.  

1 Iron Works BBQ
This is fast food: Two minutes after you place your order, you’re sitting down and devouring brisket, ribs, chicken and sausage. A real Texas barbecue, this is the kind of place where you scoop bottles of beer out of an icy bucket. Works for me.
512-478-4855,ironworksbbq.com

2 Morris East
Simple and inventive wood-fired pizzas, a small but smart wine selection and an abundance of local fare make this intimate room worthy of the buzz it’s been generating in Halifax. Highly recommended.
5212 Morris St., Halifax, 902-444-7663, morriseast.com

3 Delmo Restaurant-Bar
This is one of my favourite rooms in Montreal – a long, at times noisy, corridor specializing in seafood. The risotto is a standout. If the place is busy – and it often is – just sit at the lengthy bar and take the scene in.
211, rue Notre-Dame O., Montréal, 514-448-1869, delmo.ca 

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