Food & Drink

Canada's Top 15 Hotel Bars

Saluting the bars that made our stay, from Vancouver to St. John's.

By Chris Johns

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Vauvert
L’Hôtel St-Paul, Montréal



The black-on-black decor and hanging constellation lighting suggest a kind of haute-goth fashion sensibility, while the Paul Smith-style stripes on some of the bar chairs and banquettes give a preppier, more corporate look. Whatever the intention, the result is a bar that appeals to a diverse but very pretty crowd. Formerly the much-loved Cube restaurant, Vauvert manages to live up to some big expectations while forging its own identity.

Eat

Sagamite is an old Huron corn soup served to honour guests. It used to include smoked fish, but here it comes as a creamed corn soup with bison tongue and cheddar cheese.

Drink
Bourbon Peach: bourbon, peach schnapps, Cointreau and puréed white peaches.


Koko
Opus, Montréal

Photo: André Doyon/ lowprofile.ca; Styling: Anne Fillion; Food Styling: Noah Witenoff; Thanks to The Bay and to vinumdesign.com


“Didn’t I see you at Nikki Beach last New Year’s?” That was all the pickup line one lucky amorist needed. His table was soon full of buxom company. Of course, the Patek Philippe watch and Centurion card didn’t hurt. Cocktails defy expectation with the inclusion of things like candied hibiscus flowers (innovative), green tea (trendy), gomme syrup (old school) and banana liqueur (ironic).

Eat
Star anise barbecue pork belly bites with Asian slaw – what chicken nuggets become in heaven.

Drink
Do what the movie producers do and order bottle service. The rehoboam of Grey Goose will set you back $1,800, but hey, that includes citrus and mix.

 


La Coupole
Hôtel Le Crystal, Montréal

There’s something about this quiet, discreet space that just makes you want to undo one more shirt button and speak in a husky whisper. You don’t have to be a femme fatale or an incorrigible Lothario, however, to enjoy the best table in the house. Recessed into a back wall in a corner away from the bar, the cozy booth faces the iced champagne collection. Generic, percussive, vaguely Moroccan music sets a romantic mood.

Eat
Seared foie gras on homemade brioche with a Quebec whisky sauce, pears and cranberries.

Drink
If you’re not quite ready to splurge on the jeroboam of Moët & Chandon, there’s always the elegant Marc Chauvet Brut by the glass.


Suite 701 – Lounge and Aix La Terrasse
Le Place d’Armes Hôtel & Suites, Montréal



The stylish crowd – all air kisses and man hugs – is drawn by the elegant glamour of this converted bank with its soaring ceilings and extravagant use of marble. The DJ sets the tone and cranks things up a notch if the party starts to fade. If things get too hectic, you can always slip into the elevator and ride up to Aix La Terrasse, heated in winter. Things are quieter up here, surrounded by the spires of Notre-Dame Basilica and the skyscrapers of the city’s financial district, but no less fashionable.  

Eat
Spicy “rabbit wings” marinated with maple syrup and honey.

Drink
Caribou sur Glace, available only in winter. It took a twisted mind to dream up this wicked concoction of Grand Marnier, Crown Royal, red wine and maple syrup. More than two of them will twist your mind, too.


The Victory Arms Pub
The Lord Nelson Hotel & Suites, Halifax, Nova Scotia

This is the kind of place where you can imagine Captain Ahab himself rolling up to the bar and regaling patrons with tales of adventure on the high seas. Of course, you’re more likely to find friendly Haligonians expounding on the merits of their favourite single malt, which the bartenders pour in generous lashings. There are also plenty of intimate booths for more private conversations. The old-timey naval paintings suggest a seafaring theme without resorting to kitsch.

Eat
Bangers ’n’ mash. Grilled pork sausages bursting at the seams atop a pile of sauerkraut, accompanied by garlic-whipped mashed potatoes.

Drink
The Acapulco. Rum, tequila and pink grapefruit juice may be more Jimmy Buffett than Captain Bligh, but there’s no embarrassing little umbrella, and it tastes mighty good.


The Narrows Lounge
The Fairmont Newfoundland, St. John’s

You’re probably not coming here for the It factor – the Falcon Crest-era decor was undoubtedly tacky when it was new. No, you’re coming for the salty bartenders (“Iceberg vodka’s a hell of a lot more Newfoundland than screech ever was”), the dramatic views and the stiff drinks.

Eat
Mr. Kelly’s fish ’n’ chips. Juicy and tender inside a fantastically crisp beer batter, the fish is a standout, but it’s the homemade French fries and tartar sauce that make the party.

Drink
Iceberg vodka on the rocks. Made with water harvested from 12,000-year-old icebergs. If you can harvest your own iceberg ice cubes, all the better.

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