The New Niagara

The lobby at the Sterling Inn & Spa

It used to be a trip to Niagara Falls meant all-you–can-eat buffets, wax museums and daredevil attractions. In fact, the Honeymoon Capital of the World was always been a bit more kitsch than class. Until now. Thanks to an infusion of cash and fresh ideas, a more sophisticated Niagara Falls is on the rise.

Much of the action is happening in the historic Queen Street Arts & Entertainment District, just minutes from the Clifton Hill tourist strip. While you can still see signs of the area’s faded past in the paintball arcades and payday loan businesses, they’re fast being replaced by swanky galleries and eateries.

Enjoying a beer at Taps Brewing (Photo: Ruth Wallace)

One of the first to kick off the area’s revitalization was Paris Crepes Bistro; here café chairs spill out onto the sidewalk from beneath a merry (and award-winning) facade. The owners, who hail from Paris, serve old-world French fare, like buckwheat galettes stuffed with caviar, smoked salmon and capers, alongside crispy frites.

Neighbouring Beaux Arts storefronts hint at Queen Street’s heyday as a commercial hub in the 1890s. Do some modern-day browsing at Russell’s Interiors, a Louisiana-based design emporium whose quirky collection draws celebrity fans like Patti LaBelle. Also thriving is Niagara Markets, a specialty food shop perfect for stocking up on locally produced treasures like icewine vinegar. At Mide Bistro, you’ll get some wellness with your coffee. Get supple in the world’s only yoga and oxygen class or join a healing trance dance guided by an audio mixologist.

Peppers from Niagara Markets

For outdoor fun, the Niagara River Recreational Trail, one of Canada’s top cycling trails, offers 53 kilometres of paved dedicated pathway. A good half-day route begins at the Whirlpool Aero Cars and winds its way alongside the Niagara River. If you make it to Queenston Heights, a thigh-burning climb up the escarpment, celebrate at Taps Brewing on your return. This Queen Street spot buzzes with a raucous crowd who come to enjoy the local music scene and sample excellent small-batch lagers and cream ales.

Having a stroll on the Niagara River Recreational Trail

When it’s time to turn in, instead of the ubiquitous motels advertising free pizza delivery, choose the Sterling Inn and Spa, a chic boutique hotel that offers complimentary breakfast in bed and a first-class spa. Located in a restored creamery, this stylish retreat is definitely more Zen than midway attraction.

A room at The Sterling Inn & Spa

For Vegas-style glam, opt for the Hilton Hotel and Suites in the Fallsview area, where a recent $150-million expansion resulted in a glitzy tower and over 1,000 rooms. The new presidential suites, 50 storeys up, feature floor-to-ceiling views of both the American and Canadian falls.

The Presidential suite at the HIlton Fallsview

For evening dining, choose 17 Noir for its jaw-dropping views and upscale steak-house fare. Executive chef Ray Taylor’s menu may seem retro at first, but go ahead and order the Kobe beef. With inventive sides like truffled mac ’n’ cheese and balsamic rainbow beets, you’ll know you’re in the new all-grown-up Niagara Falls.

(Javier Sanchez has cycled, walked – and eaten – his way from Niagara Falls to Niagara-on-the-Lake countless times)

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