01 Viajes Meca offers bespoke urban tours, a smart way to visit the pyramids of Teotihuacán, 50 kilometres from the city centre. (viajesmeca.com)
02 Discover the country’s enduring love of the macabre and the surreal at the renowned National Museum of Anthropology; arrive early and you’ll have the staring skulls and laughing coyote masks almost to yourself. Then visit the Templo Mayor for a hint of Mexico City’s archeological netherworld. (mna.inah.gob.mx; templomayor.inah.gob.mx)
03 Chapulín is more than the city’s best place to eat bugs − it’s a hot spot for quality mezcals and craft beers to go with the can’t-lose Mexican menu. Don’t miss the buñuelo con mousse de quesillo, a tortilla fritter with whipped Oaxacan cheese, meringues and candied almonds. (chapulin.rest)
04 Start exploring Roma, the coolest colonia, at Mercado Roma, a new-school gourmet market. Good finds include tequila-cocktail popsicles and a goat cheese aged in avocado leaves that was named the world’s best new cheese of 2014. (mercadoroma.com)
05 Mexico City’s gastronomy can intimidate: Even the food names seem to change with the side of the street you’re on. Navigate the chaos with Eat Mexico, a culinary tour company that leaves you educated – and stuffed. (eatmexico.com)
Where to stay
Long adorned with a giant grasshopper motif on the rooftop, this landmark property is still referred to by locals as “El Chapulín” (now the name of the in-house Mexican restaurant). The InterContinental Presidente Mexico City is a short walk from upscale Colonia Polanco and the Auditorio Nacional. For peace and quiet, book a room facing Chapultepec park.