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Munich on Any Budget

From a secret bar to a baroque sauna, here’s how to balance your pocketbook in the city.

Winter Markets

Tollwood Winterfestival

Photo: Markus Dlouhy (Tollwood Winterfestival)

Tollwood Winterfestival ($$$)
There’s more to mull over at this winter festival than your standard glühwein. Tuck into a four-course meal of goat cheese crème brûlée appetizers and roast beef with gravy and brioche dumplings, and after dinner, feast your eyes on Cirkopolis, Montreal’s Cirque Éloize’s acrobatic take on the Fritz Lang classic Metropolis. (Until December 31.)
Theresienwiese, 49-89-38-38-500

Mittelaltermarkt ($)
With harpists, a sword maker and a goldsmith, this kitsch-meets-quaint market reminds visitors that Germany’s Christmas customs date to the Middle Ages. Snap up handicrafts like hand-turned olive-wood bowls, then warm up with bratwurst grilled over a beechwood fire or noodles in a creamy mushroom sauce. (Until December 23.)
Wittelsbacher Platz, 49-89-568-24-66-0


Eisbach Wave

Photo: Boggy/ (Eisbach Wave)

Müller’sches Volksbad ($$$)
Soak up the architecture at this 1901 public pool: baroque, Moorish and art nouveau styles are all on offer. Once you’ve done a few laps, work up a real schvitz in the sauna, shoulder to shoulder with an all-ages cross-section of the city. Be advised: German saunas are generally coed, and no bathing suits are allowed.
Rosenheimer Straße 1, 49-89-23-61-50-50

Eisbach Wave ($)
Despite the cold, Munich’s urban surfers can’t resist the pull of the Eisbach (ice brook) in the Englischer Garten. In winterproof neoprene, they brave the cold to catch the city’s famous metre-high breaker. Pick up a cup of feuerzangenbowle (steaming rum punch) from the nearby market and join the onlookers.
Behind Haus der Kunst, Prinzregentenstraße 1


Goldene Bar

Photo: Alescha Birkenholz (Goldene Bar)

Goldene Bar ($$$)
Deep inside the 1937 Haus der Kunst art museum sits this aptly named bar, which glows thanks to the chandelier’s reflection off the original cartographic murals on the walls. The cocktail list features creations by guest bartenders, like mixologist Sam Ross’ Penicilin, a curative concoction of fresh lemon, honey, ginger and Lagavulin 16-year-old whisky.
Prinzregentenstraße 1, 49-89-54-80-47-77

Koeri ($)
Though the spicy smell gives away Koeri’s alter ego – by day, it serves as the dining room for the Indian takeaway downstairs – you’d never know it from the dark wood panelling and backlit bar. Away from Munich’s nightlife district of Feierbanane, this low-key pop-up serves up electronic and funk music to a laid-back local crowd Thursday through Saturday nights.
Sonnenstraße 12



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