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1. Joon Bar

Located on a quiet curve of Commercial Street, “wash-ashore” (local lingo for non-native Cape Codders) Audrey Mostaghim’s intimate restaurant is dedicated to her late father. Joon means “dear” or “sweetheart” in Farsi, and there’s love in every bite of chef Paul Krikorian’s crispy-gooey Manchego-stuffed fried green olives, miso-glazed cod atop purple Peruvian potato and yam cake and saffron gelato with candied orange rind.

Provincetown, 508-413-9336,

2. Frying Pan Gallery

Across from its harbour sits Wellfleet’s oldest still-standing oyster-shucking shack, now home to sculptor and architectural designer Steve Swain’s gallery. Step inside to find Swain’s cold-hammered steel sculptures of peanut bunker fish and horseshoe crabs, as well as work by local artists like sexagenarian Walter Baranowski’s handcrafted mortise-and-tenon armchairs, built with driftwood collected during his summer beach walks.

Wellfleet, 508-349-0011,

The Red Inn

Photo: Dick Mitchell

3. The Red Inn

During its 100 years as an inn, this Provincetown landmark, originally built in 1805 by sea captain Freeman Atkins as a gift for his wife, has hosted everyone from Theodore Roosevelt to Farrah Fawcett. Head to the newly expanded dining room for sea views and a happy hour, slurping back Wellfleet oysters and Sancerre. Ask for the Delft Haven Residence, named for the Dutch harbour from which the Speedwell set sail: Formerly Atkins’ private abode, this tri-level exposed-brick suite with a mahogany Steinway piano and full kitchen features wall-to-wall windows. In the morning, wake up early to watch the sun peek up from beyond Long Point Lighthouse.

Provincetown, 508-487-7334,

4. Bluefins Sushi & Sake Bar

“In my 14 years in the business,” says Kee Ahn, the executive chef at this new hot spot, “I’ve never sliced fresher tuna.” Grab a stool at the bar, hand-built by owner Andy Baler, a veteran seafood buyer and proprietor of the Chatham Pier Fish Market, and peruse the sake list, featuring 20 varieties with names like Voices in the Mist (a nigori with notes of citrus and banana). Then, tuck into Red Sox Rolls stuffed with tuna and crab fresh off the local docks.

Chatham, 508-348-1573,

5. Art’s Dune Tours

Rob Costa began steering through parabolic dunes 33 years ago on his late dad Art’s lap, his legs too short to reach the pedals. Costa is still behind the wheel, offering guests the rare chance to visit the dunes by car, since all other vehicle access was restricted in 1980 to help regenerate the damaged vegetation. Hop a ride to see the scrub pines as well as historic 1920s artists’ dune shacks (once used by Tennessee Williams and Jackson Pollock).

Provincetown, 508-487-1950,

Film Reel

3 more spots with a past

Head to retro-style corner store Pop+Dutch for “sundries and sass” and a soft-scrambled-egg-and-bacon sandwich with a homemade spicy-pimento-cheddar spread, a local hangover cure.
Provincetown, 774-538-6472,

While waiting for Jaws to start at the Orpheum Theatre, a refurbished 1916 movie house, look for Hitchcock and Yoda in Hans de Castellane’s celebrity-packed mural.
Chatham, 508-945-0874,

Climb the stairs to the second floor of the Provincetown Public Library to find a 66-foot fishing schooner (a replica of Provincetown’s beloved Rose Dorothea).
Provincetown, 508-487-7094,



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