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How to Save and Splurge in Zagreb

From mulled wine and waffles to souvenirs from the country's design stars, here's how to balance your budget in the Croatian city.

Dinner

Mundoaka Street Food

Mundoaka Street Food (Photo: courtesy of Mundoaka Street Food)

Noel ($$$)
A collaboration between two of the country’s pre-eminent culinary pros, chef Goran Kočiš and sommelier Ivan Jug, Noel offers a fresh take on Croatian cuisine. Settle into the cozy dining room for a four-, six- or nine-course tasting menu, which might bring octopus with gnocchi or Slavonian pork, alongside wine or tea pairings.

Ul. Popa Dukljanina 1, 385-1-48-44-297, noel.hr

 

Mundoaka Street Food ($)
Street food gets the gourmet treatment, like a burger made with sirloin, and gyoza stuffed with pork loin and leeks, at this small restaurant that feels like being in someone’s kitchen. The chef teams up with nearby truffle farms for special menus, which have included risotto with grated truffles and truffle cream (reservations are a must).

Petrinjska ul. 2, 385-1-78-88-777

Souvenirs

Take Me Home

Take Me Home (Photo: Igor Kralj/Pixell)

Take Me Home ($$$)
At this intimate shop a block from the city’s main square, owner Ranka Grgić Posavec spotlights Croatia’s brightest design stars, including ceramicist Marina Marinski, who makes whimsical dishes, and Tomislav Zidar, whose Jobotichi necklaces are made from electronics parts.

Tomićeva ul. 4, 385-1-79-87-632, takemehome.hr

 

Hrelić Flea Market ($)
On Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday mornings, scores of vendors lay out blankets along the Sava River to sell their wares, be they clothing or car parts. Patience pays off as you browse vintage glassware and Croatian vinyl. Refuel with a snack from the food sellers – like pljeskavica, a spiced meat patty served in flatbread.

Sajmišna Cesta 8

Merrymaking

Ice Park

Ice Park (Photo: PhotoJa - Alamy Stock Photo

Ice Park ($$$)
During Advent in Zagreb, the city’s annual holiday festival, King Tomislav Square becomes a frozen wonderland. Against the backdrop of the Art Pavilion, skate around the fountain, then find your way to the mulled wine and waffle stands.

December 2–January 7
King Tomislav Sq. (Trg Kralja Tomislava), adventzagreb.com

 

Christmas Concerts ($)
Look up as the six-piece Ad Gloriam brass ensemble fills the streets with classic holiday songs from two of the city’s most picturesque perches: a wooden balcony on Tkalčićeva Street and a terrace at the 19th-century Croatian National Theatre.

Select dates from December 3–23
Tkalčićeva ul. and Trg Republike Hrvatske 15, adventzagreb.com

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HIGH & LOW     ZAGREB    

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