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Born out of a series of farm dinners that began in 2011, “Range Road” (as the pronunciation goes) is chef Blair Lebsack’s place in the city to show off his confident, creative take on Alberta country cooking. Begin with the Gouda perogies and a grill-marked green bean salad before Lebsack comes at you with his expertise in true nose-to-tail cooking: The nightly “questionable bits” might be something like “dirty” barley with rabbit kidneys and livers, atop a few thin slices of porchetta di testa (rolled pig’s head). Manager Caitlin Fulton masterminds a global wine list that trends Canadian, including such small-lot British Columbia bottlings as a barbera from Sandhill Wines.

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