Where to Eat

• Chives Canadian Bistro

  Chef Craig Flinn is a culinary star here. No wonder – the author of Fresh & Local: Straight from Canadian farms to your table, a cookbook on eating locally and sustainably in Canada, is committed to celebrating Nova Scotian fare and works closely with local farmers and food producers to procure the finest seasonal ingredients. For a rainbow of Nova Scotia flavours, try the seven-course tasting menu.

  1537 Barrington St., 902-420-9626, chives.ca

• The Five Fishermen

  With over 30 years on the local scene, this is the premiere spot for those who insist on the best of Atlantic seafood, including lobster, fresh fish and scallops. Hungry like a sea wolf? No problem – each main course comes with a heaping starter of steamed mussels.

  1740 Argyle St., 902-422-4421, fivefishermen.com

• Cut Steakhouse & Urban Grill

  Although we generally prefer our onion rings a little on the greasy ghetto side, we admit that the upscale tempura version at Cut, served with a smoked paprika and saffron mayonnaise, is among our favourites. Plus, the jumbo shrimp amandine (a fancy way of saying “with almonds”) is a delicious revival of a classic.

  5120 Salter St., 902-429-5120, cutsteakhouse.caFrom: The New Food Groups

• Morris East

  Lip-smacking-good wood-fired pizzas, a small but smart wine selection and an abundance of local fare make this intimate room worthy of the buzz it’s generating among the townsfolk. Highly recommended.

  5212 Morris St., 902-444-7663, morriseast.comFrom: The Departure Diet

• Mosaic Social Dining Lounge

  Think international tapas in a cool, loungey setting overlooking bustling Argyle Street. Plenty of wines are served by the glass, making pairings a snap. The laid-back, sexy vibe encourages guests to linger after dinner as the lounge gets more boisterous. There is, of course, plenty of tile work, as the name implies, but we’ve never seen a wider array of seating – from tall stools and ottomans to sectional sofas and loveseats.

  1584 Argyle St., 902-405-4700, mosaicsocialdining.comFrom: The Next 20

• Economy Shoe Shop

  The unpretentious food – like Maritime seafood chowder or Italian sausage and prawn medley – combined with a friendly atmosphere make this a favourite hangout. After dinner, slip down the “secret” staircase to the Seahorse, one of the country’s oldest bars, and dance away the night to the live jazz band.

  1661–1663 Argyle St., 902-423-7463, economyshoeshop.ca

• Jane’s on the Common

  Located at the northwest corner of the Halifax Common city park, Jane (she’s a real person) has made a name for herself with dishes made from local ingredients. The haddock fillet is to kill for, but don’t forget to leave room for the chocolate hazelnut torte. If you’re on the run or want to sit down for lunch in the park, grab a deli sandwich and pastry from Jane’s Next Door.

  2394 Robie St., 902-431-5683, janesonthecommon.com

Where to Drink

• The Victory Arms Pub, The Lord Nelson Hotel & Suites

  This is the kind of place where you can imagine Captain Ahab himself rolling up to the bar and regaling patrons with tales of adventure on the high seas. Of course, you’re more likely to find friendly Haligonians expounding on the merits of their favourite single malt. Bangers ’n’ mash is the dish to try: Grilled pork sausages bursting at the seams atop a pile of sauerkraut, accompanied by garlic-whipped mashed potatoes. If scotch isn’t your thing, go for the Acapulco: Rum, tequila and pink grapefruit juice may be more Jimmy Buffett than Captain Bligh, but there’s no embarrassing little umbrella, and it tastes mighty good.

  1515 South Park St., 902-420-9781, lordnelsonhotel.comFrom: Canada's Top 15 Hotel Bars

Arts & Culture

Halifax gets its vibrant arts scene from its interwoven Acadian and Celtic cultural traditions. It also helps that it has more universities per capita than any other city in Canada. Poke your head into a waterfront heritage building and chances are good you’ll find an independent gallery.

• Fred

  2606 Agricola St., 902-423-5400, fredsalon.ca

• Art Gallery Of Nova Scotia

  902-424-7542, artgalleryofnovascotia.ca

• Maritime Museum of the Atlantic

  902-424-7490, museum.gov.ns.ca

• Fisherman's Cove Marine Interpretive Centre

  902-465-6093, fishermanscove.ns.ca

• Creative Crossing

  2526 Agricola St., 902-446-6651, creativecrossing.ca

• The Space

  2353 Agricola St., theatrens.ca

Shopping

• Biscuit General Store

  The recently expanded Biscuit offers everything from clothes to cosmetics, including E-Z Chopsticks – spring-loaded like an oversize clothespin, they offer the ease of a fork without the social stigma. 

  1661 Argyle St., 902-425-5436, biscuitgeneralstore.com

• Premier Wine & Spirits

  Shopping at this spacious store can be as intoxicating as the stock it carries – from France’s La Fée Absinthe to La Messagère, North America’s first gluten-free beer (made from buckwheat and rice). For that special dipsomaniac in your life, stuff a stocking with a sample from Halifax microbreweries Propeller and Garrison or a slender bottle of award-winning Vidal icewine from Jost Vineyards.

  Dresden Row Market, Birmingham St., 902-435-6945, premierwineandspirits.ca

• Statement Fine Home Furnishings

  Forward-looking designs from Canadian creators rub shoulders with larger and smaller items from international players. While the sleek modern dining table from Ontario-based Speke Klein may not fit in your suitcase, a vase by Martha Sturdy can easily be stowed into your hand luggage.

  2534 Agricola St., 902-455-0442, statementdesign.caFrom: Canada’s Next Great Neighbourhoods

• The Halifax Farmers’ Market

  Running every Saturday from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m., this world-class farmers’ market gathers the best food producers, craftspeople and artisans in the province under one roof, all crammed into the Alexander Keith’s Brewery Market building (at least until a new location is ready down at Pier 20).

  1496 Lower Water St., 902-492-4043, halifaxfarmersmarket.com

Attractions

• Pier 21 National Historic Site

  This immigration museum occupies the site and the buildings that used to be the gateway through which 1.5 million new Canadians entered the country between 1928 and 1971. Here’s Canada’s answer to the United States’ Ellis Island.

  1055 Marginal Rd., 902-425-7770, pier21.ca

• Citadel Hill

  The first fortifications on Citadel Hill were built by the British in the 1740s to protect the strategic harbour from the French. The current star-shaped fortress, completed in 1856, is now a museum – the view over the city and water alone is worth the walk up the hill.

  pc.gc.ca

• Peggy’s Cove

  The quintessential Nova Scotia fishing village – located 45 minutes south of the city – features a postcard-perfect lighthouse and enormous, wave-buffeted rock formations.

  peggyscovearea.com

Getting from the Airport

Stanfield International Airport is located about 30 minutes inland from the coast: A cab is $53 plus tip. A better, if slower, bet is the Airporter bus service for $18; it runs once an hour or so and stops at major hotels. hiaa.ca

Taxis

Illuminated signs on Halifax taxi roofs are no indication that the cars are actually empty, though available cabs are easily found outside hotels or at stands. 5657 Spring Garden Road, the Park Lane Mall.

Public Transportation

$2 will take you up and down the main arteries on city buses, and the ferry ride over to Dartmouth is as good as any harbour tour. halifax.ca/metrotransit