Hong Kong
Hong Kong
Duk Ling Harbour Sail
Hong Kong Tourism Board
Businesspeople and tourists alike have flocked to Hong Kong for decades to get a real Chinese experience without the sometimes chaotic and frustrating aspects of the mainland. More than 150 years of British colonial rule – and, since 1997, an accommodating Chinese government – have allowed capitalism to thrive in this modern metropolis. (Meaning there’s money to be made here and plenty of fun, stylish, and tasty ways to spend it.)
Where to Stay in Hong Kong
W Hong Kong
Hotel LKF
33 Wyndham St., Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong Island, 852-3518-9688, hotel-lkf.com.hkIf late-night revelry with attractive urbanites is on your Hong Kong itinerary, why not save yourself a woozy cab ride home and book a room in the thick of it at this stylish Lan Kwai hotel? Quick access to Central’s best stores, Sheung Wan’s best restaurants, and Tsim Sha Tsui via the Star Ferry means you can sleep off the previous night’s indiscretions and still have plenty of daylight left to enjoy the city.
The Peninsula Hong Kong
Salisbury Rd., Kowloon, 852-2920-2888, peninsula.comFrom: Luxury Getaways - May 2008Despite the forest of modern highrises both on Hong Kong Island and here in Tsim Sha Tsui on Kowloon, this 28-storey hotel, celebrating its 81st birthday this year, still reigns over the skyline. There are so many restaurants, you never need to go outside – from the perennial favourite Chesa, a traditional Swiss restaurant, to the rooftop Felix, designed by Philippe Starck. Don’t miss the Peninsula Spa by ESPA. And afterwards, relax in your Frette robe in a room dominated by an eight-foot-wide circular ceiling-fed rain curtain.
The Salisbury
YMCA, 41 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, 852-2268-7888, ymcahk.org.hkA longtime favourite among the budget-conscious, this property is a savvy choice for even discriminating visitors. And why not? Comfortable rooms with harbour views in prime shopping territory are offered here at a fraction of the cost of the city’s big-name hotels. No, you won’t be required to sing the song when you check in, but after you realize how much money you’re saving, you may just want to.
W Hong Kong
1 Austin Rd. W., Kowloon Station, Kowloon, 852-3717-2222, whotels.com/hongkongThe transformation of West Kowloon into Hong Kong’s new cultural and financial district is well under way, but still not quite complete. Anticipating the area’s ascendance are a New-York-chic hotel, opulent condos with views of Hong Kong Island and an upscale mall filled with designer labels. Getting here is a cinch due to a subway and Airport Express station, so the question remains: Now that they’ve built it, who will come?
Where to Eat and Drink in Hong Kong
Hong Kong Tourism Board
Where to Eat
Lung King Heen
Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., Central, Hong Kong Island, 852-3196-8888, fourseasons.com/hongkongEurope’s vaunted Michelin Guide rumbled into Hong Kong for the first time in 2008 and gave the city’s only three-star rating to this contemporary Cantonese restaurant and its chef, Chan Yan-tak. Chinese foodies questioned the palates – and upscale biases – of the predominantly Western judging panel, but most still agree that for luxury dining, Chef Chan’s restaurant is hard to beat.
Ngau Kee Food Cafe
3 Gough St., Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Island, 852-2546-2584Break free from the raucous Lan Kwai bars, weave past Soho’s trendy international district, and search out this family-run Sheung Wan stalwart, which serves authentic Cantonese soul food with old-school flair. Perfectly executed classics like steamed fish head and braised pork ribs have kept this restaurant a weekly ritual for many a local family.
Whampoa Gourmet Place
Whampoa Garden, 852-2121-8344, www.whampoaworld.comFrom: Air Canada's onAir, March 2008: Where to Eat in Hong KongThe Whampoa Gourmet Place is an entire mall dedicated exclusively to restaurants. Among the best of these is Wing Lai Yuen. Don’t miss the don don mian; this spicy noodle dish is so popular, it’s rationed out at one bowl per person per day.
Tsui Hang Village
380 Hiram's Highway, Kowloon, 852-2719-4768, www.thvr.hkFrom: Air Canada's onAir, March 2008: Where to Eat in Hong KongA favourite with ladies who lunch and tycoons in bespoke suits, this vast, bright restaurant caters to its demanding crowd with original Cantonese dishes and traditional home-style fare, like minced shrimp balls fried with almonds and crispy chicken with green onion.
Shanghai Xiao Nan Guo Cuisine
MegaBox, 38 Wang Chiu Road, Kowloon Bay, 852-2369-8899From: Air Canada's onAir, March 2008: Where to Eat in Hong KongShanghainese cuisine is regarded as the most refined in China. This Shanghai-based chain specializes in such traditional treats as soup dumplings – one of the most fun things to eat on earth as long as you let them cool down to prevent scorching.
What to Do in Hong Kong
Hong Kong Wetland Park
Hong Kong Tourism Board
Arts & Culture
Broadway Cinematheque
Prosperous Garden, 3 Public Square St., Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon, 852-2388-0002, cinema.com.hkThough part of a big-box cinema chain, Hong Kong’s only remaining art house theatre – with its artsy bookstore and cosy-cool cafe – provides an essential refuge from the city’s decidedly mainstream film offerings. Its location in the old neighbourhood of Yau Ma Tei is full of pre- and post-date potential: eat a stripped-down but satisfying meal outdoors, then peruse the eclectic night market stalls along Temple Street.
Fringe Club
2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, Hong Kong Island, 852-2521-7251, hkfringe.com.hkA Canto-pop concert in a stadium full of glow sticks and squealing teenage girls – that’s the Hong Kong culture cliché. But you only need to visit this little arts society – where music, dance and theatre are performed in an old brick-and-stucco warehouse – to see that this city has a lot more to offer.
Shopping
Wise Kids
No. 2 Sun Wui Rd. (Causeway Bay), 852-2506-3328, wisekidstoys.comFrom: Globe ShopperSeriously educational meets utterly adorable at this toy store, which has several locations in Hong Kong and an on-site playroom with a weekly schedule; kids can take Lego lessons while parents shop. Don’t miss the only-in-Asia specialty toys, like Squiddy – a cuddly but realistic stuffed animal that comes with a handful of small ocean friends. (The box urges the budding Jacques Cousteau to “put the fish in my mouth!”)
Activities
Sai Kung
From: The Urban JungleTake a bus from Shatin or Choi Hung subway stations to this fishing village and spend a day enjoying Hong Kong’s oft-overlooked greenery. Hike a section of the MacLehose trail, rent a junk to a small outlying island, gorge yourself on an eye-popping selection of fresh seafood, then cap off the day with a delectable durian treat at the original location of local mega-chain Honeymoon Dessert.
Hong Kong Wetland Park
wetlandpark.comFrom: The Urban JungleGuided walks through Hong Kong Wetland Park reveal its 200 species of birds and creatures, like Romer’s Tree Frog. (You’ll only see it in Hong Kong.)
Gettting Around Hong Kong
Inside a classic Hong Kong double-decker tram
Hong Kong Tourism Board
Getting from the airport
Relocated from Kowloon to Lantau Island in 1998, the impressive Hong Kong International is now located about 35km from the city. Amazingly, The Airport Express gets you downtown in less than 25 minutes, and at 100 Hong Kong dollars (about CDN$15) or HK$180 (about CDN$27) for a round trip, it’s a pretty good deal. Taxis will cost you more (roughly HK$300 / CDN$45) but can be a good idea if you’re travelling with a group. If you’re strapped for cash and not in a rush, HK$20–40 (CDN$3–6) airport buses reach most locations in Hong Kong.
Taxis
Cabs can be hailed nearly everywhere in the city and start at a reasonable HK$18 (CDN$2.70); after two kilometres the meter will jump every 200 metres and every minute of waiting time. There are additional charges for baggage and crossing the harbour. No tip is necessary, but it’s common to round the fare up and leave the change.
Public Transportation
Hong Kong’s clean and modern subway system reaches nearly every major location in the city and a fleet of buses, with destinations helpfully written in both Chinese and English, will take you to the few places the trains can't. Don’t overlook the classics: The tram and Star Ferry have largely escaped inflation and still provide some of the best views of the city.
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