London
London
Britain on View
London – the jewel in the British crown and the largest city in the European Union – has an underground secret: the Tube. One ticket turns the sprawling metropolis into 33 interconnected urban villages, making a morning visit to the Tate Modern on the southern bank of the Thames, lunch at Harvey Nichols in the city centre and a show in the West End possible – with time to spare.
Where to Stay in London
Haymarket Hotel
The Cumberland
Great Cumberland Place, 44-87-0333-9280, guoman.comFrom: The Happy CityThe Cumberland has spacious suites, art-filled halls and a glowing lobby that changes tones as the day progresses. The B3-designed Carbon Bar is a tribute to post-industrial glamour, mixing champagne bar with concrete.
St. Martin’s Lane
45 St. Martin’s Lane, 44-20-7300-5500, stmartinslane.comJust steps from the National Portrait Gallery is this irreverently designed hotel – with signature Starck touches like a row of gold teeth stools and oversized chess pieces strewn throughout the lobby.
Ambassadors Bloomsbury
12 Upper Woburn Place, 44-20-7693-5400, ambassadors.co.ukA stone’s throw from the British Museum in the heart of the city, the Italian-inspired interiors designed by Giuseppe Boscherini give the Ambassadors Bloomsbury a distinctly Mediterranean feel.
Fairmont Savoy
Strand, 44-20-7836-4343, fairmont.com/savoyFrom: London CallingThe Thames-side Fairmont Savoy is a storied landmark (it’s where Monet came to paint and Escoffier once cooked), with spectacular views of the river and a prime location near the theatre district.
The Lanesborough
Hyde Park Corner, 44-20-7259-5599, lanesborough.comThis hotel tucked between Hyde Park and Harrods feels club without the snub, mixing Regency pieces with discreet state-of-the-art technology. And you’re just as likely to spot the Queen returning to Buckingham Palace from one of the upper windows as you are to see Mick Jagger slinking through the lobby.
Haymarket Hotel
1 Suffolk Place, 20-7470-4000, firmdale.comA study in understated glamour, the Haymarket Hotel is the kind of place that makes you rethink what a hotel should be. The location (in the heart of the West End between Trafalgar and Picadilly) is just about perfect, the Brumus Restaurant and Bar makes a mean cocktail and serves exquisite bistro cuisine, and the basement pool and bar is easily one of the sexiest rooms in the world. But it’s the attention to detail that makes this place: from the bespoke Miller Harris Marché au Foin scented candles and toiletries to the Lefroy Brooks bath fixtures to the well stocked minibar complete with Divine Fair Trade chocolates and multiple brands of champagne, and the unique artwork and antiques in every room. Ask for a courtyard facing room.
Where to Eat and Drink in London
Arbutus Restaurant
Where to Eat
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
13–15 West St., 44-20-7010-8600, joel-robuchon.comFrom: London CallingThe living wall of tumbling greenery in this dimly lit space rivals the wait staff’s impeccable choreography as a conversation piece.
Tom Aikens
43 Elystan St., 44-20-7584-2003, tomaikens.co.ukThe food – think roast langoustine with braised pig’s cheek and ginger sauce – takes centre stage in this elegant but neutrally designed dining room.
Wolseley
160 Piccadilly, 44-20-7499-6996, thewolseley.comFrom: London CallingBreakfast in this former bank includes poached eggs, black pudding and all the local papers – a good way to follow a late night.
Arbutus
63–64 Frith St., 44-20-7734-4545, arbutusrestaurant.co.ukFrom: London CallingChef Anthony Demetre prepares well-priced, modern European food like fresh ricotta gnocchi with morels and chestnut mushrooms.
Fifteen London
15 Westland Place, 44-87-1330-1515A visit to London wouldn’t be complete without a trip to Fifteen, Jamie Oliver’s teaching venture, for the slow roast shoulder of lamb from Elwy Valley – and perhaps a glimpse of the chef himself.
Galvin at Windows
22 Park Lane, 44-20-7208-4021, hilton.co.ukFrom: London CallingFrench cuisine is served with soaring city views at this glamorous restaurant on the 28th floor of the London Hilton on Park Lane.
The Holly Bush
22 Holly Mount, 44-20-7435-2892, hollybushpub.comA pub perched at the top of a very steep hill has its advantages when its claim to fame is a healthy serving of Cumberland sausages with cheddar mash.
Racine
239 Brompton Rd., 44-20-7584-4477From: London CallingAt Racine, chef Henry Harris showcases regional dishes like grilled rabbit with mustard sauce and roast pigeon.
Where to Drink
The Engineer
65 Gloucester Ave., 44-20-7483-0592, the-engineer.comFrom: London CallingThis bustling gastro-pub located just up the road from Camden Market in pretty Primrose Hill is the perfect spot after a morning tour through the stalls.
Sketch
9 Conduit St., 44-20-7659-4500, sketch.uk.comFrom: London CallingFamous for its egg-shaped toilets, hold court into the wee hours on the dance floor at Sketch dancing to – or possibly with – Madonna.
The American Bar
Strand, 44-20-7836-4343, fairmont.com/savoyFrom: London CallingQuiet conversation with Londoners is on tap at the Fairmont Savoy’s American Bar, but you’ll have to wait until fall 2009 when the hotel re-opens after a major renovation.
Annabel’s
44 Berkeley Sq., 44-20-7491-4157From: London CallingThis private members’ club is where all the cool kids (and their cooler parents) go – just be sure to make arrangements in advance.
Bentley’s Oyster Bar and Grill
11–15 Swallow St., 44-20-7734-4756, bentleys.orgFrom: London CallingOysters and champagne go hand in hand at this sleek bar outfitted with leather seats and marble tabletops.
Claridge’s Bar
Brook St., Mayfair, 44-20-7629-8860, claridges.co.ukFrom: London CallingSlide into a red leather banquette under a silver-leaf ceiling and drink in the Art Deco splendour of this formal but lively Mayfair bar.
The Ivy
1–5 West St., 44-20-7836-4751, the-ivy.co.ukFrom: London CallingTheatre-goers and those-in-the-know crowd this invitation-only bar whose entrance is hidden inside a flower shop.
The Cuckoo Club
Swallow St., 44-20-7287-4300, thecuckooclub.comFrom: London CallingSprawled over two floors, the former Stork Rooms underwent a 5,000-square-foot makeover to create this rock-chic members-only West End space.
Dukes Bar
35 St. James’s Place, 44-20-7491-4840, dukeshotel.comFrom: London CallingRaffish locals linger over the fabled dry martinis with racing-green olives in this old-school establishment in St. James.
What to Do in London
Saatchi Gallery
Photo: © Saatchi Gallery, London
Arts & Culture
Whitechapel Gallery
77–82 Whitechapel High St., Whitechapel, 44-20-7522-7888, whitechapelgallery.orgThe gallery that first introduced Jackson Pollock to Britain in 1958 is still going strong with an expanded footprint.
Saatchi Gallery
Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Road, saatchi-gallery.co.ukThis gallery boldly eschews the notion of a permanent collection in favour of discovering the next Damien Hirst.
Serpentine Gallery
Kensington Gardens, 44-20-7402-6075, serpentinegallery.orgLocated in Kensington Gardens, the pavilion is re-imagined each year by starchitects like Frank Gehry and Oscar Niemeyer and unveiled with pomp and circumstance.
Tate Britain
Millbank, 44-20-7887-888, tate.org.ukOn the site of a former prison is the greatest collection of British art – dating back to the Tudors and thoughtfully arranged in chronological order.
Tate Modern
Bankside, 44-20-7887-8888, tate.org.ukThis mecca of modern and contemporary art dating from 1900 onwards is housed in the striking Bankside Power Station.
Shopping
Thomas Pink
85 Jermyn St., 44-20-7930-6364, thomaspink.comFrom: Globe ShopperThis Jermyn Street tailor fashions much-sought-after bespoke and classically cut shirts and accessories for men and women.
Habitat
121–123 Regent St., 44-84-4499-1134, habitat.co.uk/pws/home.iceFrom: Globe ShopperEngland’s answer to Ikea, Habitat proves good design fits any lifestyle.
Playlounge
19 Beak St., Soho, 44-20-7287-7073, playlounge.co.ukFrom: Globe ShopperAn inspired selection of the most up-to-date art toys are displayed on snazzy fluorescent shelves. For kids big and small.
Books for Cooks
4 Blenheim Cres., 44-20-7221-1992, booksforcooks.comFood-lovers flock to this bookstore for the expertly selected cookbooks and homemade treats fresh from the test kitchen oven.
The Conran Shop
55 Marylebone High St., 44-20-7723-2223, conranshop.co.ukHoused in a converted stable, Terence Conran has cornered the home décor market with this colourful store packed with designers’ products.
Dover Street Market
17–18 Dover St., 44-20-7518-0680, doverstreetmarket.comFrom: Globe ShopperAmid the mishmash of this market you’ll find anything from shoes to cushions and all shapes and sizes of Comme des Garçons underwear.
Harvey Nichols
109–125 Knightsbridge, 44-20-7235-5000, harveynichols.comShop for specialty brands and then grab a bite to eat on the swish fifth floor of this upscale department store – known affectionately as Harvey Nicks.
Paul Smith
122 Kensington Park Rd., 44-20-7727-3553, paulsmith.co.ukFrom: Globe ShopperBest known for his men’s collection, fashion designer Sir Paul Smith designs classic yet quirky collections using bold colours and sharp tailoring.
Getting Around London
Photo: Visit London Images / Britain on View
Thanks to the Tube, getting around London is simple, efficient and economical. Trains are generally very reliable and run approximately 20 hours a day. But London is a walking city, too. And with eye-candy on just about every corner, you’ll find that hitting the streets is not just about window dressing – it’s part of the experience.
Getting from the Airport
Heathrow Airport is about 20 km west of central London, but it only takes 21 minutes to arrive in the heart of the city thanks to the Heathrow Express. This express train departs from Paddington station every 15 minutes with a similar service in the return direction. heathrowexpress.com
Taxis
Black cabs are the way to go and can be hailed from the street or from designated stands. There is a minimum charge of £2.20 and fares are metered. Stay safe and avoid unlicensed minicabs: they are illegal and uninsured so inform yourself before hopping in.
Public Transportation
Transport for London has divided the city into nine zones. Fares for each zone depend on peak and off-peak hours, but the price of a single journey is typically no more than £10. More information about the Tube and bus services can be found at the Transport for London site. tfl.gov.uk
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