Los Angeles
Los Angeles
Ron Reiring
Los Angeles is undergoing a major transformation. Wild growth and endless sprawl defined the City of Angels for nearly 100 years, but a new planning approach is redirecting development up rather than out and prioritizing mass transit over freeway building. It’s not going to be confused with San Francisco any time soon, but L.A. is getting denser – both physically and culturally.
Where to Stay in Los Angeles
The Roosevelt Hotel
Roberto Addona for Thompson Hotels
Avalon Hotel
9400 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 800-670-6183, avalonbeverlyhills.comFrom: The Man Who Ate L.A.The vibe at the Avalon is mid-century modern meets SoCal, complete with monthly villa rentals. After dinner at its all-American restaurant, take its signature cocktail, the Blue Avalon – Bacardi, coconut rum, pineapple juice, blue Curaçao and Sprite – over to the original hourglass pool.
The Huntley Hotel
1111 Second St., 310-394-5454, thehuntleyhotel.comFrom: The Man Who Ate L.A.We love this Santa Monica-situated, modern take on the beach hotel – from the stingray-skin-covered front desk to the penthouse-level restaurant overlooking our favourite feature, the long stretch of beach.
Roosevelt
7000 Hollywood Blvd., 323-466-7000, hollywoodroosevelt.comFrom: The Man Who Ate L.A.With its Old Hollywood vibe – Canadian actress Mary Pickford was an original investor and Marilyn Monroe lived here for two years – and its Young Hollywood clientele, the historic Roosevelt is the It hotel (again). Watch out, Chateau Marmont.
Andaz West Hollywood
8401 Sunset Blvd., 323-656-1234, westhollywood.hyatt.comWhile still a Hyatt property, this comfortable, upscale hotel has undergone the boutiquey Andaz treatment to remove any evidence of its previous life as the venue for Led Zeppelin drummer John Bonham’s reported motorcycle-in-the-hallways incident (and other rock star antics). It might now be a more appropriate place to stay for a business trip, but it hasn’t completely settled down – Whisky a Go Go is still just down the strip, after all.
Chateau Marmont
8221 Sunset Blvd., 323-656-1010, chateaumarmont.comThis Hollywood institution, built in 1927 and modelled loosely after a Loire Valley chateau, is as historic as L.A. gets. It’s survived everything from numerous earthquakes to extended stays by the likes of Hunter S. Thompson and Red Hot Chili Peppers guitarist John Frusciante – all with its notable grace notably undiminished.
Where to Eat and Drink in Los Angeles
Waiting in line for Pink's famous hot dogs
Joshua R. McDill
Where to Eat
The Apple Pan
10801 W. Pico Blvd., 310-475-3585From: The Man Who Ate L.A.With its screen doors and red leatherette seats, the Apple Pan has the feeling of a country wayside kitchen. They serve sodas in old-fashioned conical paper cups, and the waiters have a strange custom of pouring out a big slop of ketchup for you on a paper plate to dip your fries in. Choosing between the steak burger and hickory burger can be trying when you’re not yet quite comfortable saying, “I’ll have one of each.”
El Tepeyac
812 N. Evergreen Ave., 323-267-8668From: The Man Who Ate L.A.When carbo loading is a delicious necessity, you will be forever grateful for the ridiculously cheap Hollenbeck burrito at El Tepeyac: a saucy, porky pocket of goodness roughly the size of an anchorman’s head. At these moments, El Tepeyac could save your life.
Philippe the Original
From: The Man Who Ate L.A.At this sawdust-floored sandwich shop and putative birthplace of the French dipped sandwich, when you want your sandwich completely immersed in gravy, you have to know to ask for it “double-dipped.” And trust us, you want your sandwich double-dipped.
Pink’s
709 N. La Brea Blvd., 323-931-4223, pinkshollywood.comFrom: The Man Who Ate L.A.The city’s most legendary hot dog stand. To eat at Pink’s is to taste L.A. at its most democratic. Founded in 1939 by Paul Pink as a simple pushcart that sold hot dogs for 10 cents, Pink’s has become a dog institution whose subsequent fame is itself a Hollywood story. People will wait in line for up to an hour, which may seem extravagant, but the proof is in the weenie. Pink’s is quality doghouse fare, featuring a soft and flavourful chili, several strange combos (guacamole, bacon and polish sausage, anyone?) and specials named after celebrities (the Martha Stewart, no surprise, has sauerkraut).
Randy’s Donuts
805 W. Manchester Ave., Inglewood, 310-645-4707, randys-donuts.comFrom: The Man Who Ate L.A.Head to Randy’s Donuts for a quick coffee and cruller, just to stand in the shadow of Randy’s 32 1⁄2-foot-high doughnut – a landmark as significant to L.A. as the Hollywood sign.
Soot Bull Jeep
3136 W. 8th St., 213-387-3865From: The Man Who Ate L.A.It is true that you will leave Soot Bull Jeep smelling like you’ve been to a bonfire celebrating smokers’ rights, but you will not care, because after some of their grilled short ribs or squid, you will be, in San Fernando parlance, all omigawd. That aroma is more authentically L.A. than a spritz of Britney Spears’ fragrance.
Tito’s Tacos
11222 Washington Pl., Culver City, 310-391-5780, titostacos.comFrom: The Man Who Ate L.A.While some may claim they are not authentically Mexican, Tito’s Tacos specializes in the kind of taco that is indigenous to California, the ur-model that dreadful taco kits try to replicate in supermarkets everywhere. But Tito’s beef tacos on crisp shells could charm the world. The only choice you have is with bright orange cheese or without and – whether you’re a Canadian tourist or George Clooney – if you want one, you have to stand in line.
Zankou Chicken
5065 W. Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323-665-7842From: The Man Who Ate L.A.Zankou’s rotisserie chicken is the most delectable bird imaginable and what everyone in the chicken game should aspire to: moist but with a good bite, served beside an intense garlicky paste whose specific composition is the source of many local speculations.
Comme Ça
8479 Melrose Ave., 323-782-1104, commecarestaurant.comThe menu has all the hallmarks of an authentic brasserie, with beautifully prepared, classic French fare like bouillabaisse, duck confit and steak frites. Everything else, from the modern décor to the fashion-forward clientele, is distinctly Californian.
Urasawa
218 N. Rodeo Dr., 310-247-8939A meal at this Japanese restaurant will result in a pretty steep tab, even for Rodeo Drive, but what it buys you is some of the best sushi in the country. If Chef Hiroyuki Urasawa’s delicate and stunningly presented creations (think hand-carved ice bowls and vividly coloured fresh flowers) don’t make you feel like an A-lister, then the paparazzi outside documenting the parade of stars will.
Reservoir
1700 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323-662-8655, silverlakereservoir.comWith its laid-back atmosphere and hearty menu, this cozy, casual space in Silver Lake hipsterville quickly became a neighbourhood favourite. What the menu lacks in novelty – you’ll see pizza and burgers on most of the tables – it makes up for with dedicated use of fresh ingredients and creative reinterpretations. And there are a few less familiar items, like miso-marinated black cod and pan-seared marinated tofu. Plus, you choose the “setups” that will accompany your main dish from a list that includes braised black kale and Parmesan polenta.
Via Alloro
301 N. Canon Dr., 310-275-2900, viaalloro.comThe newest addition to the Celestino Drago culinary empire – this one helmed by brothers Tanino and Giacomino – is one of the best casual patios in Beverly Hills. The progressive Italian cooking is a draw, but the real standout feature is the Enomatic wine serving system that lets you enjoy some extravagant bottles at a by-the-ounce price.
Where to Drink
Bob’s Frolic Room
6245 Hollywood Blvd., 323-462-5890From: The Man Who Ate L.A.Beside the Pantages Theatre, Bob’s Frolic Room is like a Hollywood movie-set version of an old Hollywood bar. Look for the portrait of Alan Hale Jr. behind the bar. Grab a $3 Bud and pop the change into the jukebox.
Catalina Bar & Grill
6725 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-466-2210, catalinajazzclub.comL.A.’s premier jazz venue attracts both the heavy hitters and the up-and-comers.
Bar Marmont
8221 Sunset Blvd., 323-650-0575, chateaumarmont.comThis glamorous watering hole in Hollywood Hills fixture the Chateau Marmont attracts the celebrity set every night of the week.
The Dresden Room
1760 N. Vermont Ave., Hollywood, 323-665-4294, thedresden.comFrom: The Man Who Ate L.A.The mecca for classic cocktail and lounge music. Our tip: Order a whiskey sour and stay to hear legendary duo Elayne and Marty do an unforgettable version of “Stayin’ Alive.”
Roxy
9009 W. Sunset Blvd., 310-276-2222, theroxyonsunset.comA Hollywood staple for over 30 years, the Roxy still brings in a respectable lineup of music acts.
Whisky a Go Go
8901 W. Sunset Blvd., 310-652-4202, whiskyagogo.comThis is the place of rock lore. The Doors were once the house act, but these days you’re more likely to catch a tribute band.
What to Do in Los Angeles
Santa Monica Beach
Arts & Culture
The Actors’ Gang
9070 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310-838-4264, theactorsgang.comThis unusual venue is home to a theatre company co-founded by Tim Robbins in the 1980s. Performances tend to be hard-edged and often politically charged.
Bergamot Station
2525 Michigan Ave., Santa Monica, bergamotstation.comThis eight-acre complex in Santa Monica houses contemporary art galleries, the Santa Monica Museum of Art, architecture and design firms, a café and a frame shop. The galleries are all free and generally open from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm, Tuesday through Friday, and 11:00 am to 5:30 pm on Saturday.
Cinespia at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery
6000 Santa Monica Blvd., cinespia.orgOn warm summer nights, this famous cemetery is transformed into an outdoor theatre. Bring a picnic dinner and watch a classic Hollywood film projected onto a wall of one of the mausoleums.
Comedy Store
8433 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-650-6268, thecomedystore.comFounded in 1972 by comedians Sammy Shore and Rudy DeLuca, this historic club boasts a star-studded alum roster including the likes of Jerry Seinfeld and Robin Williams. Three separate stages host an array of famous stand-up acts and rising stars nearly every night of the week.
Frank Gehry’s Walt Disney Concert Hall
111 S. Grand Ave., 323-850-2000, laphil.comThe new architectural focal point of downtown, this exceptional performance venue was designed by starchitect Frank Gehry.
Geffen Playhouse
10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310-208-5454, geffenplayhouse.comThis mid-sized theatrical venue offers a mix of new works and local premieres.
Getty Center
1200 Getty Center Dr., 310-440-7300, getty.eduThis museum complex is perched on a hill with remarkable panoramic views of L.A. and the Santa Monica coastline. There are four two-level pavilions that house the exhibitions, plus the Getty Research Center, a breathtaking garden and restaurant. Plan for a whole day.
Greek Theatre
2700 N. Vermont Ave. in Griffith Park, 323-665-5857, greektheatrela.comThis intimate open-air theatre is at the base of Griffith Park in the Los Feliz neighbourhood of L.A. State-of-the-art acoustics and well-conceived sight lines make it a challenge to find a bad seat.
Hollywood Bowl
2301 N. Highland Ave., 323-436-2827, hollywoodbowl.comA classic. This amphitheatre nestled into the Hollywood Hills has been hosting concerts every summer since 1922.
L.A. LIVE
800 W. Olympic Blvd., 866-548-3452, lalive.comThis outdoor venue opened in 2008 and includes a theatre, cinemas, restaurants and hotels all contained within one walkable district of downtown.
MAK Center for Art and Architecture
835 N. Kings Rd., West Hollywood, 323-651-1510, makcenter.orgHoused in an architectural landmark built in 1922 by the Austrian architect Rudolph Schindler, the MAK Center hosts a variety of avant-garde exhibitions, talks and music events.
Miracle Mile Art Walk
Held on the third Saturday of the month with a slightly different focus each time, this is your chance to see some of the most exciting art in the city. The area’s most notable galleries can be found at 6150 Wilshire Blvd. – among them is ACME (323-857-5942, acmelosangeles.com) and Marc Foxx (323-857-5571, marcfoxx.com).
Attractions
Griffith Park and Observatory
2800 E. Observatory Rd., 213-473-0800, griffithobs.orgThis is one of the largest city parks in the U.S., with panoramic views of the city. On a rainy day, the observatory – with its astronomy exhibitions and mind-blowing planetarium shows – is a skygazer’s dream come true.
Surfrider Beach
23050 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, parks.ca.govThis world-class surfing destination by the Malibu Pier is also an excellent place for novice surfers to build their skills.
Will Rogers State Historic Park
1501 Will Rogers State Park Rd., 310-454-8212, parks.ca.govOnce the home of cowboy philosopher, writer and trick roper Will Rogers, this 186-acre park offers a number of pleasant hikes with ocean views and wide swaths of grassy areas for picnics or sunning.
Getting Around Los Angeles
© Photo168 | Dreamstime.com
L.A.’s burgeoning mass transit system will get you anywhere you need to go. At the same time, this is still the city that defined America’s car-bound culture – driving is the fastest way to get from A to B, as long as you avoid the freeways (called “going surface”) during rush hours.
Getting from the Airport
Los Angeles International Airport is located 24 kilometres southwest of downtown L.A., 38 kilometres southwest of Hollywood and 21 kilometres south of Santa Monica. Taxis and shuttles can be found outside baggage claim. Public transportation is also available, but it’s more difficult to navigate and not recommended for the uninitiated.
Taxis
It’s nearly impossible to hail a taxi in the city. You’ll want to call in advance from your hotel or restaurant to arrange for a pickup.
Limousines
The cost of hiring a limo and driver ranges from $50 to $60 an hour and most require a three- to four-hour minimum plus a tip.
Public Transportation
L.A.’s metro trains are clean and easy to navigate, but the lines are limited. Red Rapid buses have extensive routes and make fewer stops than local buses. Day passes for trains and buses are $5, and a single fare will run you $1.25. Tickets can be purchased at vending machines located in all train stations. metro.net
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