Miami
Miami
When you're strolling down the Ocean Drive strip in South Beach, it can be easy to forget that Miami is a city of almost five and half a million people. The deco architecture, the flashy cars and clothes, the "ink" – it all makes this place feel like a special little enclave for a global toned-and-tanned club. Which it is, but it's a club that welcomes guests and the rest of the city has a lot to offer once you've had your fill. From the vibrant Design District to the charming calm of Coral Gables, Miami is much more than its caricature. And, of course, even the caricature can be a ton of fun if you know where to look.
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Where to Stay in Miami
The Delano
The Biltmore Hotel
1200 Anastasia Ave., Coral Gables, Miami, 1-800-727-1926/305-445-1926, biltmorehotel.comWith aviaries in the lobby, faux Spanish architecture and a hotel pool that once hosted the Miss America pageant, the Biltmore is certainly not going for understated luxury. This is still Miami, after all, even if you’re in Coral Gables. Still, it’s a welcome refuge from the buzz of the South Beach strip, especially in the refined courtyard where you can have breakfast by the fountain. That pool – the largest hotel pool in the continental U.S. – is not to be missed. If you forget your swimsuit, you can always pick up a pair of Vilebrequin trunks in the gift shop.
The Grove Isle Hotel & Spa
4 Grove Isle Dr., Coconut Grove, 800-884-7683/305-858-8300, groveisle.comCast away on a nearby 20-acre island, the Grove Isle Hotel & Spa feels like a remote resort in the Keys, but it’s actually minutes from downtown. Book a room that faces Biscayne Bay and you’ll be treated to dazzling nighttime views.
The Fairmont Turnberry Isle Resort & Club
19999 W. Country Club Dr., Miami, 866-840-8069/305-932-6200, fairmont.com/turnberryisleIf the bustle and late nights of South Beach aren’t for you (especially if you consider yourself a golfer), Turnberry Isle is the perfect alternative. The Raymond Floyd-designed courses are two of the best in south Florida, and the Bourbon Steak restaurant by celebrity chef Michael Mina offers the ideal post-round meal. Plus, it’s family-friendly, and the enormous Aventura Mall is just across the street.
Acqualina Resort
17875 Collins Ave., Sunny Isles Beach, Miami, 305-918-8000, acqualinaresort.comThe Italianate 51-storey beachfront Acqualina Resort in Sunny Isles, located exactly halfway between South Beach’s Ocean Drive epicentre and Fort Lauderdale’s Sunrise Boulevard, is almost Vegas-like in its “more-is-more” opulence. From the marble lobby with vaulted ceilings to the hallways with waterfalls cascading over glimmering tile on either side, the Acqualina isn’t about subtle luxury. But this is south Florida – subtlety would just be missing the point. Unmitigated indulgence is the idea here, so settle into the first ESPA facility in the U.S. for an LED-lit chromotherapy steam bath and get into a Miami state of mind.
The Delano
1685 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, Miami, 305-672-2000, delano-hotel.comWith its Rose Bar, acclaimed Blue Door restaurant, dramatic pool area and eclectic Philippe Starck lobby design, the Delano was the default venue for the South Beach cultural renaissance of the early aughts. The giant billowing sheer curtains that hang from the white porte cochère are still parted nightly by SoBe scenesters, but things have mellowed somewhat in the last few years. The downside is that you’re less likely to run into Kanye West, but the upside is that you might actually want to book a room instead of just a table.
Fontainebleau Hotel
4441 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, Miami, 305-538-2000, fontainebleau.comFresh from a half-billion-dollar reno, the 1,504-room, 22-acre Fontainebleau, an arc of blue glass and white concrete by Morris Lapidus originally completed in 1954, is one of the most impressive examples of Miami Modern’s architectural golden age. Winking at the hotel’s high-style history, features like the striated columns and bow-tie-patterned floor in the lobby are borrowed from the original. New, however, are the eight restaurants, three nightclubs and 40,000-square-foot spa.
The Viceroy Hotel
485 Brickell Ave., Miami, 866-781-9923/305-503-4400, viceroymiami.comFrom: The Viceroy, MiamiThis hotel occupies one of the three towers in the Icon Brickell development, south of Miami Circle Park. Standout features include Club 50, where top DJs and a lively outdoor pool make for one of the most exclusive parties in the city; Eos, where diners can pre-order a whole suckling pig cooked in Michael Psilakis’ modern Greek style; and the Philippe Starck-designed spa, where guests can relax under a three-metre Murano chandelier. Room to book: Monarch Suite 1212 has a colour scheme by designer Kelly Wearstler.
Gansevoort South
2377 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, Miami, 866-932-6694/305-604-1000, gansevoortsouth.comSharing its newly fashionable mid-beach location with other next-generation SoBe mega-properties like the recently renovated Fontainebleau means the Gansevoort should continue to enjoy its status as Miami’s hottest poolside scene for at least a little while longer. Since its 334 spacious, modern rooms only occupy part of the property, the other denizens of this huge ’60s building say as much about the character of the place as the hotel guests: Passing through the lobby at any given time could be a member of Miami’s most dazzlingly nightclub-like place to work out, the David Barton Gym, an employee of the international modelling agency on the third floor or a realtor working hard to get one of the 259 condo units off the market.
Tides South Beach
1220 Ocean Dr., South Beach, Miami, 800-439-4095/305-604-5070, thetideshotel.comThe glamorous, maritime-themed Tides South Beach, with its bold interiors by Kelly Wearstler, is among the most exclusive Ocean Drive properties. Earth tones and organic accents lend it a more subdued feeling than its Viceroy sibling, creating a stark juxtaposition with the scene outside.
The Standard Spa Miami Beach
40 Island Ave., Miami Beach, Miami, 305-673-1717, standardhotels.comOn a quiet strip along the Venetian Causeway, André Balazs has fashioned a modest roadside motel into a Bohemian-chic retreat from the pink glow of Collins Avenue. The rooms are, well, standard, but the property is a Lewis-Carroll-esque wonder. Walk through the ’50s-style lobby and step into a whimsical garden furnished with swinging lounge chairs, palm-shaded futons and art deco sculptures. Continue past the white-robed spa-goers, bustling bar and live DJ to disappear into the shimmering infinity pool that’s just a splash away from spilling into the sea.
Where to Eat in Miami
Prelude By Barton G.
Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink
130 N.E. 40th St., Miami, 305-573-5550, michaelsgenuine.comThis flagship foodie haunt of the revitalized Design District serves what we can only describe as upscale Americana – think deep-fried hominy snacks and plates that come in small, medium, large and extra-large. Chef Michael Schwartz makes the most of his wood-fired oven to roast everything from snapper to chicken. Try the Bulleit Proof Manhattan with rosemary-infused cherries and thank us later.
Prime One Twelve
112 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach, Miami, 305-532-8112, mylesrestaurantgroup.comWith his world-renowned dry-aged prime steaks, chef Mike Sabin takes the Miami surf ’n’ turf model and adds a healthy dose of elegance and sophisticated preparation. Located on the site of South Beach’s first hotel, Prime One Twelve has a heritage-soaked look that belies its hot-spot status.
BLT Steak
1440 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach, Miami, 866-792-3879/305-531-6100, thebetsyhotel.comOccupying most of the elegant lobby of The Betsy – one of the best Ocean Drive boutique properties for those who prefer a more inviting kind of luxury to the eye-popping extravagance that’s typical of Miami Beach – is Laurent Tourondel’s unique take on the American steakhouse. Complementing the character of the hotel perfectly, this unpretentious modern bistro combines French influences with the folksy American techniques that chef de cuisine Sam Gorenstein picked up while cutting his teeth at Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink. He also throws in a little of his own Colombian heritage here and there, but what’s most surprising about dishes like the American Wagyu skirt is their simplicity.
Pacific Time
35 N.E. 40th St., Miami, 305-722-7369, pacifictimerestaurant.comChef Jonathan Eismann has reopened his iconic indoor-outdoor restaurant in the heart of the burgeoning Design District. He kept the casual vibe that made the old beach location a hit, but introduced more of an Asian inflection to spice things up. The innovative, contemporary menu is full of small plates and snacks that make Pacific Time an easy place to grab a bite without committing to an over-the-top feast. Just make sure you take the time to sample the impressive cocktail list.
Shiso Miami
1418 20th St., Miami, 305-672-1119, shisomiami.comThis modern izakaya – like a Japanese gastropub – set in an industrial building with bold concrete features and exposed brick is gaining notoriety for its exciting Asian-influenced bar menu. The sushi stands up to anything in the city, but the real draw is the collection of delicious sake cocktails – our favourite has muddled blueberries and blackberries, agave nectar, lime juice, orange juice and pomegranate juice.
Prelude by Barton G.
Arsht Center, 1300 Biscayne Blvd., Miami, 305-357-7900, preludebybartong.com
The original Barton G. in South Beach is all style: Diners sitting in the orchid garden sipping molecular cocktails sometimes even get distracted and forget to order the famous voodoo shrimp. Barton G. Weiss’ new downtown location at the Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts, however, dials up the substance with a reasonably priced prix fixe menu stacked with inventive contemporary decadence. Don’t miss the chèvre tortellini.
Jimbo’s Place
Duck Lake Rd., Virginia Key, Miami, 305-361-7026, jimbosplace.comIf you’re looking for the anti-SoBe, consider a jaunt out to Shrimper’s Lagoon (by car or boat), where Jimbo’s, a shrimp shack turned beer garden that’s decorated with Airstream trailers, girlie posters and bits of colourful fishermen’s kitsch, awaits intrepid diners. But enjoy a $2 can of Budweiser and a game of bocce while you can – more than once, city officials angling for more profitable ventures have tried to boot out owner James “Jimbo” Luznar.
The Forge
432 W. 41st St., Miami, 305-538-8533, theforge.comThe Forge first opened its doors in the ’60s, so they’ve had a while to build their wine cellar. And it shows: The list is one of the most impressive in the country. The steaks are excellent, but the food isn’t really why anyone comes here. The Forge is one of Miami’s original champagne-popping, cigar-smoking loci of excess. But don’t worry, they’ll still seat you even if you pull up in a rental and not an orange Lambo.
Eno’s Wine Bar
920 Lincoln Rd., Miami, 305-695-1119Experience the future of wine tasting in this little bar that feels like a candy store for grown-ups; automated wine dispensers are placed throughout the dining area, each filled with a selection of fine wines from all regions of the world. Just buy a prepaid wine card, select your wine and pour size, enjoy and repeat as necessary. Food is appropriately simple: mozzarella and prosciutto on toast.
Grass Restaurant & Lounge
28 N.E. 40th St., Miami, 305-573-3355, grasslounge.comWith exotic plants and bamboo everywhere, Grass is a Caribbean escape in the middle of the Design District. Have a mojito on the patio while you sample the fusion menu: guava chili glazed pork served with apple compote and sweet potato chippies, or grilled lamb on Israeli couscous.
Charlotte Bistro
264 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables, Miami, 305-443-3003Elida Villarroel’s menu at Charlotte is influenced as much by her Venezuelan roots as it is by her Michelin-starred French bistro pedigree. The decor – colourful chairs spread over a retro mosaic floor – reflects the creative flair of Villarroel’s cooking. Don’t leave without trying the “chocolate soup” dessert, made with Chuao Venezuelan chocolate.
Scarpetta
4441 Collins Ave., Miami, 305-538-2000, fontainebleau.comAs the anchor restaurant of the new Fontainebleau, Scarpetta – and celeb chef Scott Conant by extension – deserves some of the credit for the property’s considerable buzz. The concept will be familiar to anyone who knows his Manhattan Meatpacking District room: good ol’-fashioned Italian cooking beautifully executed with seasonal ingredients. The only difference is that this version, massive and glittering in chrome, brass and marble, overlooks an expansive pool area and an azure Atlantic.
Activities
Arts & Culture
Miami Art Museum – MAM
101 W Flagler St., Miami, 305-375-3000, miamiartmuseum.orgWith a fresh redesign by Herzog & de Meuron, the architects behind London’s Tate Modern, the new MAM will transform and expand into the adjoining park, to keep up with its ever-growing permanent collection. With works by icons ranging form from James Rosenquist to Chuck Close, the collection is a robust representation of the of American modern art canon.
Vizcaya Museum and Gardens
3251 South Miami Ave., Miami, 305-250-9133, vizcayamuseum.orgYou can poke around the ornate rooms of this Italianate folly, built by industrialist James Deering in 1916, on your own or with a guided tour, but the real reason for a visit is the spectacular gardens. Don’t miss the Venetian-style boat dock, complete with candy-striped pillars that look ready to welcome a passing gondola.
Miami Design District
miamidesigndistrict.netWhether you’re there to purchase a Ligne Roset Elsa chair, visit Fendi Casa’s only American showroom or pick up an Adidas Y-3 swimsuit at the last minute, the Miami Design District is all about cultured consumption. And for those who aren’t satisfied by shopping, fresh contemporary galleries abound.
Attractions
South Pointe Park
twitter.com/miamiyogaclubNestled on the southern tip of Miami Beach in the posh SoFi (south of fifth) district, the newly re-designed (yes, even the parks get the MiMo treatment here) South Pointe Park is a relaxation space for urbanites looking to get back to nature. With its dog-friendly waterside promenade, barbecue areas and a children’s park, this oasis sandwiched between skyscrapers and the Atlantic is an urban masterpiece. And yogaphiles can follow the tweets of the Miami Yoga Club, which organizes group classes several times a week in this small spot of nature in the middle of hectic Miami.
La Piaggia Beach Club
lapiaggiabeach.comInspired by the French Riviera, La Piaggia is for poolside afternoons enjoying a niçoise salad and a glass of rosé. As the sun dips, throw on a pair of heels, because the city’s glitterati will be filing in shortly. The skyline view, the elegant (but not outrageous) decor, the retro-accented chaise lounges, the Franco-Italian menu and iced cocktails – it all adds up to an experience that can only be had in Miami.
EcoAdventures
305-365-3018, miamiecoadventures.orgMary Rose and the team from EcoAdventures, an organization run by Miami-Dade Parks, offer overnight camping in the Everglades. Afraid of the dark? Opt for daytime sea kayaking.
Nature Guides at Deering Estate
305-235-1668, deeringestate.orgUnder the light of a full moon, nature guides at Deering Estate at Cutler take you through Biscayne Bay by canoe.
Getting Around Miami
Miami isn’t just a city where driving is the norm; Miami is a city where driving a flashy sports car in a colour you’d never see in any other city in the country seems to be the norm. (Well, flashy sports cars and Cadillacs with New Jersey plates, that is.) The biggest impediment to transportation in Miami is freeway traffic, but many streets are the size of freeways anyway, so consider a “surface” route if you opt for a rental. The only really fast, easy and stylish way to get around is by boat – the inland waterway is like I-95 for yachts and our favourite smoked fish spot offers free moorage in Shrimper’s Lagoon!
Getting from the Airport
Miami International Airport is the hub connecting the southern hemisphere to North America, so naturally it’s big and busy. It’s less than 20 minutes from Miami Beach if there’s no traffic, but given the crowds at MIA, the Fort Lauderdale Airport (only 20-30 minutes further) might sometimes be the better bet. Both are served by shuttles and cabs are plentiful, but one advantage MIA will have beginning in 2012 is a stop on the Metrorail system.
Taxis
Taxis aren’t easily hailed in Miami, so remember to ask your hotel or restaurant to call for you. Rates are $4.50 for the first 1/6 mile and $2.40 for each additional mile. Waiting time is $.40 per minute.
Public Transportation
Miami might be a car-bound culture, but the public transit system is actually quite usable in some places. The Metrorail transit system runs the length of the city and a fun free monorail system moves people around 21 downtown stations. Though bus service is not frequent in most areas, with more than 100 routes, it should get you to the Metrorail in a pinch.
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