Where to Eat

• Le Local

  This bustling, cinematic restaurant is crammed with politicians and judges, directors and an inordinate number of beautiful women. The menu can baffle: a cochonnailles plate with “a mixture of interesting things,” cassolette d’escargots and deer tartar with pickle cream. Still, something as simple as a beet salad transforms into a surprising treat with the addition of cherry tomatoes, crisp lardons, truffle oil, goat cheese and a simultaneously crunchy and creamy panko-crumb-covered poached egg. If the restaurant’s quirks begin to bewilder, don’t panic. Just sit back and enjoy the show.

  740, rue William, 514-397-7737, resto-lelocal.comFrom: Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2008

• Liverpool House

  Don’t let the chilled-out Matthew McConaughey-on-vacation vibe fool you; this is a serious restaurant with an in-depth wine program and a fiercely dedicated staff. That’s the secret behind the mini-empire created by restaurateurs Allison Cunningham, Frédéric Morin and David McMillan, who also run Joe Beef and McKiernan Luncheonette on this stretch of Rue Notre-Dame, a tomato’s throw from the Atwater Market. The focus is on market cuisine with a nod toward Italy by way of whatever the kitchen feels like. That could mean China (Peking duck), the U.K. (chanterelles on toast) or Dairy Queen (chocolate sundae with sprinkles).

  2501, rue Notre-Dame O., 514-313-6049From: Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2008

• Bistro Bienville

  This is exactly the kind of food we would all cook at home if we could. Nathalie Grégoire owns this pocket-size bistro on a residential street in Montreal’s restaurant-rich Plateau neighbourhood, with chefs Sébastien Harrison-Cloutier and Jean-François Cormier at the helm. The menu is brief, just eight items, and straightforward. A little nubbin of Angus beef gilds a cool, rich potato salad topped with salsa verde. An entire loup de mer for two rests atop Israeli couscous (the caviar of couscous), accompanied by the most delicious cherry tomatoes – split, served raw and popping with flavour.

  4650, rue de Mentana, Montréal, 514-509-1269, bistrobienville.comFrom: Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2007

• Le Jolifou

  Chef David Ferguson, who cut his teeth in the kitchens of Montreal fine-dining institutions Toqué! and Au Pied de Cochon, owns and operates this charming, antique toy-adorned spot with his sommelier partner, Hélène Brault. The best way to end your fresh, seasonal meal: the three-spice crème brûlée.

  1840, rue Beaubien E., 514-722-2175, jolifou.comFrom: Canada’s Next Great Neighbourhoods

• Brontë

  Le Méridien Versailles’ restaurant is miles away (spiritually, if not geographically) from the abundant tourist-destined eateries in downtown Montreal. Much more than just a hotel restaurant, Brontë is an ambitious, avant-garde project whose menu mixes local ingredients and exotic influences: standouts include the duck magret and seared foie gras, not to mention the Nova Scotia lobster with corn ravioli.

  1800, rue Sherbrooke O., 514-934-1801, bronterestaurant.com

• Joe Beef

  Set in Little Burgundy, a burgeoning neighbourhood near Atwater Market, Joe Beef is a relaxed and casual spot that celebrates a new take on old pub cuisine in a friendly tavern atmosphere. The skate and fries – a seafaring version of steak frites – and the hot chicken sandwich are only two takes on chefs David McMillan and Frédéric Morin’s food philosophy: refreshing classics from both British and French bistro cooking with a shot of Quebecois verve.

  2491, rue Notre-Dame O., 514-935-6504, joebeef.ca

• L’Express

  For over two decades, L’Express has been the epitome of French bistro cooking in Montreal. Everybody knows about it; it’s the heart and soul of Montreal’s French fine dining heritage. At L’Express, the service is always impeccable, and you will always find the same incomparable steak frites, the same impressive wine list, and the same packed house around one in the morning. The kitchen is open until 2 a.m., and reservations are highly recommended.

  3927, rue Saint-Denis, 514-845-5333

• Toqué!

  The only thing that hasn’t changed since Toqué! moved from its squished old space on rue Saint-Denis to the open concept dining room designed by Jean-Pierre Viau in Old Montreal is the quality of its kitchen. Chef Normand Laprise’s masterpieces are heavily influenced by French cuisine, but also by local and seasonal ingredients. The seven-course tasting menu is a real delight, especially if you order the glass of champagne served with a melting oyster.

  900, place Jean-Paul-Riopelle, 514-499-2084, restaurant-toque.com

• Au Pied de Cochon

  Here you will find what Québec is doing best, food-wise: a traditional, yet innovative cuisine du terroir made with fresh market ingredients and farm products from the Belle Province. But instead of doing it by the book, chef Martin Picard introduces unique twists: succulent roast piglet and the now-legendary duck foie gras poutine are decadent pleasures.

  536, av. Duluth E., 514-281-1114, restaurantaupieddecochon.ca

• Olive & Gourmando

  Nothing beats the fresh croissants and other tempting delights of Olive & Gourmando, a cute little bakery-café located on rue Saint-Paul. Whether you choose a rhubarb muffin with strawberries or one of Jami’s butterscotch pecan squares, have a seat and discover the ideal Saturday morning hangout.

  351, rue Saint-Paul O., 514-350-1083, oliveetgourmando.com

• Schwartz’s

  Probably Montreal’s most famous food institution, Schwartz’s, on Saint-Laurent, boasts the best smoked meat sandwich in town. For the uninitiated: order it medium (just the right degree of fattiness) with a cherry cola (trust us) and smother it in mustard – you’ll fit right in.

  3895, boul. Saint-Laurent, 514-842-4813, schwartzsdeli.com

• Les enfants terribles

  This bistro’s interior has been redesigned using only recycled materials. Given its name, the place is sure to appeal to the area’s hipster contingent. The people-watching will be great – if you’re lucky enough to snag a spot on the terrace.

  1257, rue Bernard O., 514-759-9918

• Le Cartet

  No longer just a brunch spot, this discreet McGill Street locale has been redesigned and serves Mme Cartet’s famous lemon pie until 10 p.m. in the summer. Two more ways to enjoy the superb food: it’s a caterer and a gourmet grocery store.

  106, rue McGill, 514-871-8887

• Les trois petits bouchons

  The kitchen in this cool, subterranean space bases its cooking around market-fresh ingredients, so the menu changes frequently – hence the blackboard. You might find foie gras mousse with a brûlée top, super-tender grilled veal, duck confit and a phenomenal pissaladière. Their eco-conscious side shows not only in ingredients that support local organic farmers but also in a wine list that features organic and biodynamic wines.

  4669, rue Saint-Denis, 514-285-4444, troispetitsbouchons.comFrom: The Next 20

Where to Drink

• Vauvert at Hôtel St-Paul

  The black-on-black decor and hanging constellation lighting suggest a kind of haute-goth fashion sensibility, while the Paul Smith-style stripes on some of the bar chairs and banquettes give off a preppier, more corporate vibe. Whatever the intention, the result is a bar that appeals to a diverse but very pretty crowd. Formerly the much-loved Cube restaurant, Vauvert manages to live up to some big expectations while forging its own identity.

  355, rue McGill, 514-876-2823, restaurantvauvert.comFrom: Canada's Top 15 Hotel Bars

• Koko at Opus Montréal

  “Didn’t I see you at Nikki Beach last New Year’s?” That was all the pickup line one lucky amorist needed here. His table was soon full of buxom company. (Of course, the Patek Philippe watch and Centurion card didn’t hurt.) Cocktails defy expectation with the inclusion of things like candied hibiscus flowers (innovative), green tea (trendy), gomme syrup (old school) and banana liqueur (ironic).

  8, rue Sherbrooke O., 514-657-5656 (KOKO), kokomontreal.comFrom: Canada's Top 15 Hotel Bars

• La Coupole at Hôtel Le Crystal

  There’s something about this quiet, discreet space that just makes you want to undo one more shirt button and speak in a husky whisper. You don’t have to be a femme fatale or an incorrigible Lothario, however, to enjoy the best table in the house. Recessed into a back wall in a corner away from the bar, the cozy booth faces the iced champagne collection. Generic, percussive, vaguely Moroccan music sets a romantic mood.

  1325, boul. René-Lévesque O., 514-373-2300, restaurantlacoupole.caFrom: Canada's Top 15 Hotel Bars

• Suite 701 – Lounge and Aix La Terrasse at Le Place d’Armes Hôtel & Suites

  The stylish crowd – all air kisses and man hugs – is drawn by the elegant glamour of this converted bank with its soaring ceilings and extravagant use of marble. The DJ sets the tone and cranks things up a notch if the party starts to fade. If things get too hectic, you can always slip into the elevator and ride up to Aix La Terrasse, heated in winter. Things are quieter up here, surrounded by the spires of Notre-Dame Basilica and the skyscrapers of the city’s financial district, but no less fashionable.

  701, Côte de la Place d’Armes, 514-904-1201, suite701.comFrom: Canada's Top 15 Hotel Bars

• Pullman

  In a small nondescript building on Avenue du Parc hides one of Montreal’s best wine bars. Here you’ll find weird and wonderful architectural notes – like a huge chandelier made out of glasses and chairs hanging from the ceiling – and an impressive by-the-glass list. Don’t get intimidated by the setting, created by interior designer Bruno Braën (Club Chasse et Pêche, Bily Kun, DNA Restaurant) – the service inspires instant comfort. Bubbly, unpretentious wine lovers help you find the best Bordeaux to pair with your foie gras cookies or port-infused grilled cheese.

  3424, av. du Parc, 514-288-7779, pullman-mtl.com

• Laïka

  This trendy little neighborhood haunt on Saint-Laurent is an enigma: DJs that pack 2,000-person-capacity Ibiza clubs spin for graphic designers, musicians and filmmakers toiling away with their laptop cords wrapped meticulously around the legs of their Eames chairs. But that’s the daytime scene, when the free wireless Internet is as much of a draw as the scenester vibe; by night, the place turns into a real bar with a progressive electro soundtrack.

  4040, boul. Saint-Laurent, 514-842-8088, laikamontreal.com

• Bily Kun

  Whether you order a Czechvar or an Absinthe, try to do it in French. The crowd is about equal parts Anglophone and Francophone, but the culture leans decidedly toward the latter. You’ll feel like you’re either in a Parisian bistro, with mosaic tile floors, or a Tanzanian safari lodge, face-to-face with a row of mounted ostrich heads.

  354, av. du Mont-Royal E., 514-845-5392, bilykun.com

• Dieu du ciel

  Perhaps the best local brewpub in Montreal, Dieu du ciel creates its own beers, all inspired by Québec’s seasonal ingredients and local traditions. You won’t find anything you order at this Laurier Street taproom anywhere else. Our picks: the Blanche Neige (with notes of cinnamon and clove) and the Aphrodisiac (with cocoa and vanilla).

  29, rue Laurier O., 514-490-9555, dieuduciel.com

• Baldwin Barmacie

  Mile End and Outremont, French and English, bourgeois and hipster intersect here on Thursday and Friday nights for good, simple cocktails and eclectic music, from Blondie to the latest Calvin Harris. The clean, chic location used to be a drugstore and the white walls and mod furnishings play on the theme. A fun touch: your prescription – a delicious martini or a Portuguese imported mousseux – might be served in an old syrup bottle.

  115, rue Laurier O., 514-276-4282

• Buvette Chez Simone

  A buvette is a small bar, usually in a public space, like a train station; this resto/bar maintains the informal concept but without the commuter traffic. Five partners pooled their talents to create an easygoing place with a focus on undiscovered wines. Plus, it’s open late.

  4869, Ave. du Parc, 514-750-6577

Arts & Culture

• DHC/ART

  Admission to this gallery, home to Phoebe Greenberg’s foundation dedicated to contemporary art, is always free. DHC/ART brings Canadian artists to the world and welcomes some of the most celebrated talents in Europe and North America to its two small spaces on rue Saint-Jean, in Old Montreal.

  451, rue Saint-Jean, 514-849-3742 / 888-934-2278, dhc-art.org

• Musée d’art contemporain de Montréal

  Montreal’s small but powerful contemporary art space is no stuffy tourist museum. The permanent collection offers an impressive panorama of Québec’s artistic history, from the 1960s up to today, while exhibitions highlight acclaimed artists from the four corners of the planet, like Anselm Kiefer and Bruce Nauman. The museum is open until 9 pm on Wednesdays.

  185, rue Sainte-Catherine O., 514-847-6226, macm.org

• Montreal Museum of Fine Arts

  One of Canada’s most important cultural institutions is also home to thought-provoking exhibitions created in collaboration with other European and North American museums, such as the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective and a hit Andy Warhol show examining the artist’s influences. Admission is free for the permanent collection, which highlights past and present works from all over the world and boasts a major Native Canadian art collection.

  1380, rue Sherbrooke O., 514-285-2000, mbam.qc.ca

• Darling Foundry

  This old foundry building, set in formerly industrial Old Montreal, is an art gallery in constant evolution. The Darling Foundry showcases the work of independent and experimental artists, either local talents or international visitors, offering residences to foreign artists. The outside of the building is used as an extension of the gallery – giant artworks are hung on brick walls, and sculptures of grass are left on the terrace. If you’re thirsty, swing by Cluny, an artsy café that offers healthy lunches.

  745, rue Ottawa, 514-392-1554, www.fonderiedarling.org

• Usine C

  Whether you go for a live performance, a play or a show, you’ll always see something unexpected at Usine C. This old factory in Montreal’s Centre-South neighbourhood, renewed by architects Saucier + Perrotte, welcomes independent festivals like Elektra, Temps d’images and TransAmériques. Programming features experimental works, but photo exhibitions and special events with DJs are also on tap.

  1345, av. Lalonde, 514-521-4493, usine-c.com

• Cinéma Beaubien

  The Art Deco Cinéma Beaubien, the last neighbourhood cinema in the city, was saved by community cinephiles when it threatened to shut down in 2001. On the marquee: artsy first-run French films you won’t likely find at Blockbuster.

  2396, rue Beaubien E., 514-721-6060, cinemabeaubien.comFrom: Canada’s Next Great Neighbourhoods

Shopping

• Les Touilleurs

  With ergonomic kitchen hardware imported from England and France, such as colourful Le Creuset cocottes and retro-chic electronics by KitchenAid, this innovative concept boutique on Laurier Street is a must-go for serious foodies. Bonus: all of Les Touilleurs’ friendly employees are gourmet connoisseurs who will be happy to guide you toward the perfect tool for a complex recipe. If you can’t bring yourself to leave, just stick around for an evening cooking class.

  152, av. Laurier O., 514-278-0008, lestouilleurs.com

• Boutique Duo

  With rich ebony shelving and eye-popping yellow floors, this menswear store boasts an outstanding collection of designer apparel, from Filippa K to D&G – not to mention Alexander McQueen.

  30, rue Prince-Arthur O., 514-848-0880, boutiqueduo.com

• Domison

  With this store, the team behind the very chic (and very exclusive) Periphere furniture line has made style more accessible. It’s time to put Scandinavian conformity behind us.

  4117, boul. Saint-Laurent, 514-733-8588, domison.com

• Galerie Flowerbox

  High-rise living gets an injection of nature from Galerie Flowerbox. Modern ceramic, wood, aluminum or cardboard containers mount on the wall, so small plants sit at an unexpected angle – parallel to the floor.

  4400, rue Saint-Denis, 514-843-4400, flowerbox.caFrom: enRoute, December 2007: Top of the Shops

• La Canadienne

  Complete with cappuccino bar, La Canadienne’s salon-style footwear boutique features antique lamps and bleached floors made of Italian oak. “We aren’t going for minimal chic,” says Penny Shuster, whose father got involved with the Montreal shoe business decades ago. We were swept away by the round-toe booties, bowling bags and slouchy python totes.

  273, av. Laurier O., 514-270-8008, lacanadienne.caFrom: enRoute, December 2007: Top of the Shops

• Suite 88 Chocolatier

  This lounge and boutique advances the art of novelty chocolates, offering a box of 12 shooters with liquidy centres ($26). Bite off the tip and enjoy a delightful jolt of Absolut Mandarin before finishing your treat. And while you’re in an indulgent frame of mind, the velvety hot chocolate is not to be missed.

  3957, rue Saint-Denis, 514-844-3488, suite88.comFrom: enRoute, December 2007: Top of the Shops

• Dans ta bulle

  “We want to be the natural Sephora!” exclaims Tvine Topouzian, the twentysomething co-owner of this cosmetics shop full of Canadian-made, 100-percent natural products. To that end, she carries Zorah’s organic lip balms along with sugar scrubs from Honey Flower and citrus bubble bath from Fleur Bleue.

  316, av. du Mont-Royal E., 514-842-3019From: enRoute, December 2007: Top of the Shops

• Librissime

  Spend hours ogling limited-edition curiosities at Librissime, a bookstore that feels like a temple. Imports range from picture books of Renaissance portraiture to Poker: The Ultimate Book, packaged like a deck of cards. Get the book lover in your life a Grace bag, the store’s Cole Haan leather book bag, or Assouline’s cashmere reading shawl, covered with letters and numbers in Didot typeface.

  62, rue Saint-Paul O., 514-841-0123, librissime.comFrom: enRoute, December 2007: Top of the Shops

• Le Canard libéré

  This shop’s offerings are a mallard lover’s dream, culled from the oldest duck-breeding farm in Canada (Brome Lake Ducks, in Quebec’s Eastern Townships, founded in 1912). There are whole ducks, confit duck legs, duck sausages, tubs of rendered duck fat and much more, but the small jars of duck rillettes or pâtés flavoured with orange liqueur or port make the best gifts.

  4396, boul. Saint-Laurent, 514-286-1286, bromelakeducks.comFrom: Globe Shopper

• Commissaires

  A gallery within a store, Commissaires features exhibits of conceptual designs alongside functional mass-market items, such as Jonas Damon’s LED clock. Cases in point: Korean designer Kwangho Lee filled the space with light fixtures made from cascades of electrical wiring, and Quebec design collective Samare showed metal-framed furniture strung with babiche, the woven leather used to make traditional snowshoes.

  5226, boul. Saint-Laurent, 514-274-4888, commissairesonline.comFrom: Globe Shopper

• Mona Moore

  Since its opening in 2002, this is where Montreal's chicest women shop for shoes. Whether you choose to update your look with the latest Yohji Yamamotos or invest in a staple like the must-have Marni bag, walking into this beautiful boutique will surely convert you into a shoe fetishist.

  1446, rue Sherbrooke O., 514-842-0662, monamoore.comFrom: Air Canada's onAir, April 2008: Shopping in Montreal

• General 54

  Representing over 30 different designers and artists from Montreal, this neighbourhood go-to for girls in the know specializes in abstract jewellery, handmade cards and accessories. It's also home to the Glasgow clothing line created by co-owner Jen Glasgow.

  54, rue Saint-Viateur O., 514-271-2129From: Air Canada's onAir, April 2008: Shopping in Montreal

• u&i

  Divided into two sides – one for women, the other for men – this boutique is the gold standard for modern fashion enthusiasts. With lines like 3.1 Phillip Lim, See by Chloé, Engineered Garments and Acne Jeans, you're sure to be up on the latest trends.

  3650-3652, boul. Saint-Laurent, 514-844-8788, boutiqueuandi.comFrom: Air Canada's onAir, April 2008: Shopping in Montreal

• Michel Brisson

  Upon first look, this venerable boutique may seem flashy, but there is more to Michel Brisson than colourful Etro prints and the latest G-Star jeans. Some of the best pieces here are minimalist blazers from Dries Van Noten and reconstructed Martin Margiela suits. Look to the knowledgeable staff for advice on accenting your look with scarves or cufflinks. Custom tailoring available.

  1012, av. Laurier O., 514-270-1012, and 384, rue Saint-Paul O., 514-285-1012, michelbrisson.comFrom: Air Canada's onAir, April 2008: Shopping in Montreal

• Couleurs

  Since 1999, brothers Lambert and André Gratton have been converting the masses to their modern design aesthetic. Almost all of the items in this subterranean gem are one of a kind, and the store specializes in a selection of mid-century Québec and European ceramics along with teak Scandinavian furniture. Lambert's top pick? Canadian designer Daniel Lemieux's pumpkin lamp, which was first created in the 1960s. The range has been reissued and the lamps are now available in various sizes.

  3901, rue Saint-Denis, 514-282-4141From: Air Canada's onAir, April 2008: Shopping in Montreal

• Harmony Code

  This clothing boutique’s decor features eye-catching lavender walls and stylized red flowers on a black background. The jewel-like items you’ll find there are perfect for injecting a touch of exoticism into your winter wardrobe. In addition to lines by young local designers, the owner handpicks items from Greece, India and Turkey.

  123, avenue du Mont-Royal Ouest, 514-286-2633From: Air Canada's onAir, April 2008: Shopping in Montreal

Festivals

Montreal is famous for its festivals, especially during summertime. From the renowned Montreal International Jazz Festival (end of June until mid-July) to Just for Laughs (mid- to end of July) and the FrancoFolies (early August, a festival primarily dedicated to showcase francophone artists), it’s the best time of the year to discover the city.

• Montreal International Jazz Festival

  514-871-1881 / 888-515-0515,, montrealjazzfest.com

• Just for Laughs

  514-845-2322 / 888-244-3155, hahaha.com

• FrancoFolies

  514-876-8989 / 888-444-9114, francofolies.com

Getting from the Airport

Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport (YUL) is located in Dorval, about half an hour from downtown Montreal. Highways 20 and 520 are the main access roads to the city, but there are other services available if you don’t have a car. L’Aérobus connects you from the airport to downtown Montreal every half-hour during peak times. Taxis charge a fixed rate of $38 from the airport to downtown Montreal. admtl.com

Taxis

If hailing one from the street doesn’t work, you can easily find taxis waiting at the corners of major avenues in Montreal and near public attractions. You’ll also find cab line-ups in surprising places, like seemingly insignificant corners in the middle of the Plateau, so make a mental note when you spot one.

Public Transportation

The Société de transport de Montreal (STM) manages buses and Metros, as well as commuter trains. The Metro is the most convenient way to go between neighborhoods. The yellow line connects you with the South Shore and Île Sainte-Hélène, and you can access Parc Jean-Drapeau, where Expo ’67 was held. Trains are available throughout the day, until about 1 a.m. After that, you’re stuck with the bus. stm.info