Photo: Julien Archambault
Tucked away in the depths of Saint-Henri, Grumman 78 embodies the dressed-up simplicity that we talk about when we talk about gourmet tacos. They’ve shed the snack-size aspect of their former street food menu, so don’t be surprised when your appetizer of fresh horse tartare arrives in heaps and your Buffalo salad comes dressed in creamy goat cheese, sweet sliced apples, walnuts, tangy vinaigrette, and chicken bones doused in Buffalo sauce that’s just meaty enough for a hearty appetizer. Entrées stay faithful to Grumman’s original identity as a taco truck, satisfying even the most discerning palate with combinations like sweet duck, Vietnamese salad and hoisin sauce, octopus and chorizo, and black bean and feta cheese. The staff are helpful yet modest – they’ll tell you that the side order of Papas Grumman can’t stand alone as a meal, but when you’re tucking into a deep-as-the-sea bowl of fried sweet potato cubes topped with chunks of garlic cheese curds and cilantro, it just might prove otherwise.