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In a low-key but gleaming box in the city’s Little Italy neighbourhood, Stefano Faita and chef Michele Forgione refine the details of Italian comfort cooking with precision and control, but no shortage of charm. Veal sweetbreads come impeccably fried alongside tangy elderberries and an albacore-based salsa tonnata, while sweet-pea agnolotti and Tuscan sausage is drizzled in marjoram-infused brown butter. Begin the meal with a proper Negroni to whet your appetite and then let the blade-sharp wait staff lead you through an all-Italian wine list, from vermentino to Valpolicella.

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