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Chef Joe Mercuri, once of the much-beloved Brontë, returns with this eponymous restaurant that puts his creative cooking back in the spotlight where it belongs. In a grown-up room staffed by grown-up servers, dishes arrive on spun ceramic plates and are consistently more nuanced than they appear at first bite: Witness the rabbit pappardelle, given a note of country-stew flavour with a delicate carrot foam, or the raviolis tinted a dark green by the addition of charred leek ash. A cucumber granita with Hendrick’s gin, lime and coriander shortbread is like an after-dinner version of a gin and tonic.

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