City Guide

YUL
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Vin Papillon

Just a few doors down from their meat-focused Little Burgundy joints Joe Beef and Liverpool House, local legends David McMillan and Fred Morin have added a third child to their restaurant family that shares its older siblings’ general disposition but does its own thing with a vegetable-focused menu. This is ostensibly a wine bar – Joe Beef sommelier Vanya Filipovic pops in frequently to pour unique finds like Slovenian Movia from her natural-organic-biodynamic list – but the dishes that emerge from the kitchen play no second fiddle. Celery root is smoked and roasted, and thin discs from the charcuterie slicer are folded like dumplings atop a creamy anchovy-caper sauce.

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