New York City
New York City
Bart Barlow / © RCPI Landmark Prop / NYC & Company
Eight million people live here, and millions more visit every year. It’s America’s capital of culture and commerce. New York defies description, not only because it’s so many things to so many people, but also because it changes faster than any other city in the world – a side effect of never sleeping. Still, a walk across Central Park from the Museum of Natural History to the Met or brunch at the Waldorf will reveal some of the enduring facets of this most dynamic of cities.
Where to Stay in New York City
The Bowery Hotel
Gregory Goode
Four Seasons Hotel New York
57 E. 57th St., 212-758-5700, fourseasons.com/newyorkfsFrom: Big Apple TurnoverUnofficial flagship of the venerable Canadian-owned chain, the I.M. Pei-designed Four Seasons Hotel New York extends its impeccable service to its spa. Double your wellness dose with a Four Hands at Four Seasons massage; then head for a bite at the hotel’s resto, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, one of the city’s hottest dining spots.
W New York
541 Lexington Ave., 212-755-1200, starwoodhotels.comFrom: Big Apple TurnoverA room reno of the W New York has made a good thing nothing short of brilliant. “Extreme Wow” suites come with separate bedrooms and incredible 1,500-square-foot wraparound terraces for a little urban meditation. But there’s life beyond the rooms – the ambitious two-floor Bliss49 spa is a world unto itself.
Hotel Gansevoort
18 9th Ave., 212-206-6700, hotelgansevoort.comFrom: Big Apple TurnoverOpened in 2004, the ultrahip Hotel Gansevoort anchors the busy retail, restaurant and nightlife scene in the Meatpacking District. That lineup? It’s for the hotel’s rooftop bar, Plunge, which kicks until 4 a.m. on weekends. Because sometimes there’s nothing quite as restorative as a Manhattan.
Night Hotel
132 W. 45th St., 212-835-9600, nighthotelny.comFrom: Someone’s in the Kitchen with DanielThough Vikram Chatwal’s mod-Gothic, black-and-white Night Hotel is somewhat Dali-esque, it still helps you stay centred in the heart of the city with satin-smooth Frette bed linens and yoga classes at the nearby Chopra Center.
The Pod Hotel
230 East 51st St., 212-355-0300, thepodhotelny.comThe Pod makes the most of its, well, pod-sized rooms with minimal furniture, bunk beds, colourful bedspreads and inset LCD screens. Every room is fitted with an iPod docking station and free Wi-Fi access.
Hotel Le Bleu
370 4th Ave., 718-625-1500, hotellebleu.comFrom: Air Canada's onAir, May 2008: Weekend In BrooklynThe name says it all: from the moment you walk into the lobby you’re bathed in an ambient indigo light. It feels like it belongs more in Tokyo’s Shinjuku than in Brooklyn’s Park Slope. The guest rooms are neatly packaged with gleaming white furnishings that complement to blue theme to produce a futuristic sci-fi vibe. But if you book a room with a Manhattan view (and you should), you’ll only have to look out over the industrial riverside landscape at the skyline to restore a sense of here-and-now. Though the aesthetic may be fanciful, the Blue’s best virtues are practical: reasonable rates within an easy cab ride of Lower Manhattan and an easy walk of Fifth Avenue restaurants.
The Bowery Hotel
335 Bowery, 212-505-9100, theboweryhotel.comThe owners of the Bowery – who also run its cousin property, The Maritime, near the meatpacking district – have turned this former condo tower into an eclectic hotel. The large, light-filled rooms mix in a little South Carolina with their south Manhattan.
The New York Palace
455 Madison Ave., 212-888-7000, newyorkpalace.comSituated on Madison Avenue, this unabashedly opulent hotel is within walking distance of Central Park and Saint Patrick’s Cathedral. Dine at GILT restaurant for Justin Bogle’s modern American cuisine. The best rooms, with Art Deco interiors, are on uneven-numbered floors in the Towers section.
The Waldorf=Astoria
301 Park Ave., 212-355-3000, waldorfastoria.comFrom Frank Costello to Franklin Roosevelt, Cole Porter to Marilyn Monroe, the list of former Waldorf residents reads like a cast of characters from the history of Manhattan. The unmistakable Deco exterior and plush, opulent rooms connect current guests (like the United States' Representative to the UN, who lives on the 42nd floor) to the hotel’s storied past.
The Tribeca Grand
2 Avenue of the Americas, 212-519-6600, tribecagrand.comWith one foot in the world of Wall Street and the other in Houston high fashion, the Tribeca Grand is equally likely to be the site of a bigwig-loaded board meeting or a Page Six-worthy event. The Church Lounge – a restaurant, bar and regular A-list party venue – occupies the huge atrium behind the front desk, while the 100-seat Grand Screen theatre hosts private screenings downstairs.
Crosby Street Hotel
79 Crosby St., 212-226-6400, firmdale.comThe Firmdale hotels in London, like the debonair Haymarket in the Theatre District, define a uniquely British brand of sophistication — classic, but contemporary; refined, but comfortable; exclusive, but inviting. That’s one of the reasons the group’s first American property, which opened in the fall of 2009, has attracted so much attention. The other reason is that it may well be the most stylish hotel in New York. In the heart of SoHo, between Prince and Spring Streets, The Crosby’s geographic niche advertises its cultural niche: fashionable, youthful and oozing creative energy. The Crosby’s 86 Kit Kemp-designed guestrooms are more crisply modern than those found in its English siblings, with eclectic individually-curated flourishes illuminated by warehouse-style floor-to-ceiling windows. You’ll be tempted to rush up to your room, but take your time to enjoy the whimsical collection of modern art in the lobby and the impressive sculpture garden.
Where to Eat and Drink in New York City
Community Food and Juice
Dyske Suematsu
Where to Eat
Café Boulud
20 E. 76th St., 212-772-2600, danielnyc.comWith the young Gavin Kaysen at the helm, Café Boulud meets the lofty expectations most diners have for a Boulud resto, except when it comes to the bill: exquisite French cuisine and fantastic service for less than its cousins.
DB Bistro Moderne
55 W. 44th St., 212-391-2400, danielnyc.comFrom: Someone’s in the Kitchen with DanielThis is the home of the original DB Burger – ground sirloin stuffed with succulent braised short ribs, foie gras and preserved black truffle, made to order on a freshly baked Parmesan bun. The accompanying pommes frites, though, served in a parchment-lined silver cone, are actually as satisfying as the main attraction.
Buttermilk Channel
524 Court St., Brooklyn, 718-852-8490, buttermilkchannelnyc.comAlthough the name refers to the strait between Brooklyn and Governors Island, it also reflects the restaurant’s emphasis on comfort food (fat is used to good measure). As they cure their own meat, expect to find Buttermilk’s own bacon and head cheese on the menu (not to worry, there’s a vegetarian menu as well). For dessert, the pecan pie sundae is a must.
Little Owl
90 Bedford St., 212-741-4695, thelittleowlnyc.comThis tiny West Village resto seats just 30, plus four if you count the bar (which is, allegedly, the chef’s choice table). Serving up unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine, the Little Owl’s meat sliders are a hearty favourite, as is the no-nonsense pork chop served with wild dandelion.
Mooncake Foods
28 Watts St. at 6th Ave., 212-219-8888Delicious and affordable, the Pan-Asian menu offers fresh selections like miso salmon that are served up quickly, making it a perfect lunch spot (also open for dinner).
Bar Jamón
125 E. 17th St., 212-253-2773From: Big Apple TurnoverIf you’re having a carnivore craving in Gramercy, head to this small, atmospheric room specializing in charcuterie. It’s part of celebrity chef Mario Batali’s mini-empire and carries an extensive and prize-winning selection of Spanish wines.
Moustache
90 Bedford St., 212-229-2220, moustachepitza.comFrom: Big Apple TurnoverFor a dining experience that’s both ridiculously inexpensive and ridiculously satisfying, try the delicious Middle Eastern food at the unpretentious Moustache. The leek and scallion “pitza” was our favourite.
Freemans
191 Chrystie St. #2F (end of Freeman Alley, off Rivington between The Bowery and Chrystie), 212-420-0012, freemansrestaurant.comFrom: Air Canada's onAir, November 2008: Food & Drink in New York CityHiding in an East Village alleyway, this quirky gem boasts a taxidermy collection on the walls and wild-boar terrine on the menu. But Freemans isn’t all wild game and rustic kitsch. The menu offers solid, well-crafted standards, such as grilled trout with lemon and a delicious, down-to-earth spinach salad.
Al di Là Trattoria
248 5th Ave., Brooklyn, 718-783-4565From: Air Canada's onAir, November 2008: Food & Drink in New York CityA lush velvet curtain guards the entrance to this Park Slope Italian joint, one of Brooklyn’s foodie favourites. Pull it back and uncover a warm, glowing room overflowing with sophisticated, stylish locals and Manhattanites who’ve happily endured the commute. At Al di Là, it’s all about the food. Pastas like the beet and ricotta ravioli are simple and imaginative, while entrées of hanger steak with arugula or hake baked with cherry tomatoes and black olives are reassuringly simple.
Sripraphai
13 39th Ave., #64, Queens, 718-899-9599From: Air Canada's onAir, November 2008: Food & Drink in New York CityFor one of the best affordable Thai meals in New York City, make your way to Woodside in Queens. The casual decor misleads: dishes at Sripraphai are thoughtful and expertly prepared. Though the restaurant has a novel-length menu, there’s no need to stray from the staples to eat authentically. Green papaya salad, curries and perfectly cooked citrus-marinated fish arrive steaming in minutes.
The Tavern at Gramercy Tavern
42 E. 20th St., 212-477-0777, gramercytavern.comSkip celebrity chef Michael Anthony’s prix-fixe menu in the dining room. Eating in the bar (also known as the Tavern) at this legendary New York City restaurant is by far the better value. Far from Buffalo wings and jalapeño peppers, the Tavern at Gramercy Tavern keeps things classy, simple and delicious, with comfort offerings from seafood chowder to mushroom lasagna.
Peter Luger Steak House
178 Broadway, 718-387-7400, peterluger.comFrom: Air Canada's onAir, May 2008: Weekend In BrooklynWilliamsburg is home to this renowned steak house, a favourite of Sinatra’s that still turns out the best porterhouse this side of Buenos Aires. With more than a century as one of New York’s top steak houses behind them (institutionally, if not personally), the servers have earned the right to be a bit abrasive.
Applewood
501 11th St., Brooklyn, 718-788-1810, 718-788-1014, applewoodny.comFrom: Air Canada's onAir, May 2008: Weekend In BrooklynThis Park Slope mom-and-pop pays homage to the Slow Food movement. The menu lists the nearby farms that provide the restaurant’s largely organic produce. Its inventive small plates include braised duck leg bolognese, sautéed potato gnocchi and blue lump crab salad with crushed avocado and caramelized orange.
Degustation
239 E. Fifth St., 212-979-1012From: Air Canada's onAir, June 2007: Food & Drink in New York CityIn a dark corner on the Lower East Side, this minimal 19-seat wine and tasting bar feels like the kind of place that asks for a secret password at the door. Once you’re in, though, the savvy service makes you feel right at home. The name says it all: order the tasting menu.
Momofuku Noodle Bar
171 First Ave., 212-475-7899, momofuku.comDavid Chang’s East Village Korean noodle bar is fortunately no longer just a bar. The first iteration, offering only counter service, was such a hit that there were constantly crowds of ramen junkies waiting for a seat. Now he’s got a little more space, but the vibe is no less raucous. The noodles are a meal on their own, but who can resist the steamed white doughy pork buns or roasted rice cakes in a fiery red chili pepper sauce?
Casa Mono
52 Irving Place, 212-253-2773, casamononyc.comFrom: Air Canada's onAir, June 2007: Food & Drink in New York CityMario Batali's cozy corner in Gramercy Park would make any meat-loving Madrileño feel right at home. Sit at the counter and watch the chefs tend to huge flames beneath shiny pots. Sizzling baby octopus and garlic sing happily over the soft flamenco guitar, and the seared foie gras with sherry reduction melts dreamily in the mouth. This is no tapas bar – it's haute cuisine with a Spanish flair that just happens to be served on small plates.
BabyCakes NYC
248 Broome St., 212-677-5047, babycakesnyc.comIf you have an addiction to baked goods but want to feel good about eating a dozen cookies, then try BabyCakes NYC vegan bakery. Made somehow delectable using exclusively all-natural, gluten-free and organic ingredients, the Red Velvet cupcake with creamy vanilla frosting is a taste of the divine.
Strip House
13 East 12th St., 212-328-0000, striphouse.comIn NYC, the prevailing trend for steak houses has been cavernous, loud rooms with testosterone-priced wine lists for Wall Street warriors. But if all you want is a great dry-aged sirloin, try this Union Square classic. The cozy red velvet room is covered with headshots of ’40s and ’50s actors and burlesque stars. (Hence the name.) The service is attentive and professional, the wine list is diverse and the steaks rival any in the city. If you manage to save room for dessert (and we rarely do), get a Grand Chocolate Profiterole for the table.
Blue Hill
75 Washington Place, 212-539-1776, bluehillfarm.comOpened in 2000, this hidden gem in the basement of a Greenwich Village townhouse was among the vanguard of the slow and sustainable food movement. Most of their ingredients come from the biodynamic farm the owners run at an old Rockefeller complex upstate called Stone Barns.
Grimaldi’s
19 Old Fulton St., Brooklyn, 718.858.4300, grimaldis.comThe best pizza in New York is a topic that gets almost as heated as Mets versus Yankees, but almost everyone can agree that Grimaldi’s, an old-school brick oven joint under the Brooklyn Bridge, deserves a spot in the top five. Purists go for the simple but satisfying tomato, mozzarella and basil pie. Work up your appetite walking over the Brooklyn Bridge to get there and you’ll have killed two NYC landmarks with one stone.
Community Food & Juice
2893 Broadway, 212-665-2800, www.communityrestaurant.comFrom: onAir, November 2008: New York, Without ReservationsA diner offering fresh-off-the-farm seasonal brunch and free-range buttermilk fried chicken, Community Food & Juice doesn’t let the concrete and bustle of Manhattan’s Upper West Side keep it from serving sustainable, local food. Certified by the Green Restaurant Association, the local favourite composts and uses energy-saving kitchen equipment, while guests devour grass-fed antibiotic-free burgers at tables made from reclaimed wood.
Clo Wine Bar
10 Columbus Circle, New York, 212-823-9898, clowines.comIt might look more like the starship Enterprise than a wine bar, but Clo Wine Bar – on the fourth floor of the Time Warner Center – is where wine tasters of the future meet. With more than 100 wines displayed in temperature-controlled cases, patrons can click on the multi-touch menu for tasting notes and, with the swipe of a card, fill a Riedel glass with, say, a 2007 Kerner from Manni Nössing. No tip required.
What to Do in New York City
Jen Davis / NYC & Company
Arts & Culture
Museum of Modern Art
11 West 53rd St., 212-708-9400, moma.orgThe MoMA’s long-awaited renovation by Japanese architect Yoshio Taniguchi transformed the space into an architectural marvel, highlighting modern-art masterpieces such as Van Gogh’s The Starry Night.
P.S.1 Contemporary Art Center
22–25 Jackson Ave. at 46th Ave., 718-784-2084, ps1.orgSet in an abandoned public school in Queens, this museum is primarily dedicated to the work of experimental artists in a wide range of media. Don’t miss the Warm Up music series in the summer, a unique multisensory experience with internationally acclaimed DJs echoing art and architecture.
New Museum of Contemporary Art
235 Bowery St., 212-219-1222, newmuseum.orgThis museum reopened its doors in the middle of New York’s newly gentrified neighbourhood, Nolita, in a stunning new building made out of six giant white boxes that welcome collections and exhibitions focusing on contemporary works.
Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 Fifth Ave., 212-535-7710, metmuseum.orgThe Met is one of the world’s largest art galleries, with an incomparable permanent collection. It’s located at the edge of the Park, so drop in after a walk and soak up the Greek antiques or European paintings.
Health & Spa
Looking for an unconventional spa treatment? Here are some rare New York oases:
The Spa at Mandarin Oriental
80 Columbus Circle, 212-805-8800, mandarinoriental.comOkeanos Club Spa Banya
211 E. 51st St., 212-223-6773, okeanosclubspa.comShizuka New York
7 W. 51st St., 6th floor 212-644-7400, shizukany.comSpa Castle
10 11th Ave., #131, 718-939-6300, nyspacastle.comYelo
315 W. 57th St., 212-245-8235, yelonyc.comFrom: Big Apple Turnover
Getting Around New York City
Felix Candelaria / NYC & Company
New York is a true pedestrian’s city, but if you’re not in the mood to walk, you have options. Yellow cabs abound, of course, and there’s always the subway. In any case, there’s really no need for a car.
Getting from the Airport
LaGuardia and JFK are both serviced by public transportation, but most people take cabs. To get into midtown Manhattan from either airport, a yellow cab will set you back $45 (flat rate) plus tip. If you’re arriving at Newark, take the Airtrain Newark train to Penn Station in Manhattan. The 35-minute ride costs only $5.50.
Taxis
There are more than 10,000 yellow cabs in New York. New Yorkers complain if one doesn’t stop within 90 seconds – you really can always hail one quickly. And don’t be shy; there’s almost nothing you can’t learn about the city from a New York cabbie.
Public Transportation
The subway system is extensive and cheap – you can get anywhere for the $2.25 flat fee. Buses also cover most of the city and cost the same as the subway. Whichever you use, get a metrocard (mta.info).
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