In NYC, the prevailing trend for steak houses has been cavernous, loud rooms with testosterone-priced wine lists for Wall Street warriors. But if all you want is a great dry-aged sirloin, try this Union Square classic. The cozy red velvet room is covered with headshots of ’40s and ’50s actors and burlesque stars. (Hence the name.) The service is attentive and professional, the wine list is diverse, and the steaks rival any in the city. If you manage to save room for dessert (and you rarely will), get a Grand Chocolate Profiterole for the table.