Where to Eat

• Miroir

  The small, casual Miroir bistro is a welcome new addition to the food scene in the now-gentrified Rue des Martyrs, a gastronome’s delight with boulangerie next to fromagerie and award-winning patisserie all the way up the hill to Montmartre. Recommended: delicious assiettes de porc made from what were certainly happy pigs.

  94, rue des Martyrs, 33-1-46-06-50-73

• Café de Flore

  The city’s – and perhaps the world’s – most famous café, this Left Bank staple was a favourite of Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir. Sample classic brasserie fare like omelettes, salads, sandwiches and steaming onion soup.

  172, boulevard Saint-Germain, 33-1-45-48-55-26, cafe-de-flore.comFrom: enRoute, November 2008: A Holiday from the Holidays

• Bistro Paul Bert

  On a nondescript street in a lost part of the 11th arrondissement, Bistro Paul Bert groans with authenticity, right down to the crusty waiters. It also boasts a fantastic, well-priced three-course menu featuring classic bistro staples. Check the blackboard for daily features. This neighbourhood favourite has been discovered and lauded by seemingly every food magazine editor, making it nearly impossible to just drop in.

  18, rue Paul Bert, 33-1-43-72-24-01

• Le Comptoir du Relais

  This intimate resto from chef du jour Yves Camdeborde, not far from the Luxembourg Gardens, is one of Paris’ toughest reservations. For less than €50, sample innovative takes on earthy bistro dishes from the chef’s native Southwest in a five-course prix-fixe meal. During the day and on weekends, the menu is a little less formal and the place is easier to get into. If you’re shut out, don’t despair – there is a humble crepe stand right next door to the restaurant. Camdeborde owns this too, and it sells some of Paris’ best street crepes.

  3, carrefour de l’Odéon, 33-1-44-27-07-97

• Le Voltaire

  Overlooking the Seine, in swinging, intellectual Saint-Germain-des Prés, this wood- and leather-filled French restaurant (which also has an adjacent café offering inexpensive lunches) is a favourite of publishers, government ministers, antiques dealers and other members of the limousine liberal set. You would never go wrong hosting a business dinner here.

  27, quai Voltaire, 33-1-42-61-17-49

• Christophe

  A tiny place near the Sorbonne whose fantastic food more than makes up for the forgettable décor. Chef Christophe focuses on high-quality ingredients and bright flavours. Christophe is also one of few bistros to open Sundays and Mondays.

  8, rue Descartes, 33-1-43-26-72-49, christopherestaurant.fr

Arts & Culture

• Palais de Tokyo

  The original Japanese pavilion for the Universal Exhibition morphed into a museum dedicated to contemporary art. Push past the skateboarding kids in front of the main entrance and step into a temple devoted to marginal artists and experimental work. The boutique also has a great collection of art books and international magazines.

  13, avenue du Président Wilson, 33-1-47-20-00-29, palaisdetokyo.com

• Musée du Quai Branly

  Architect Jean Nouvel designed the new Musée du Quai Branly (or MQB, for those in the know) as four interlinking buildings showcasing indigenous art from around the world. It’s a perfect add-on to an Eiffel Tower excursion – just blocks away.

  37, quai Branly, portail Debilly, 33-1-56-61-70-00, quaibranly.frFrom: enRoute, November 2008: A Holiday from the Holidays

• Centre Pompidou

  Walking through the primary-coloured glass corridors of this metal-framed, monolithic contemporary art mecca can make one feel a little like a hamster in a Habitrail, but the dazzling array of masterfully curated exhibits guarantees a day well spent. Enjoy lunch out front, a favourite venue for street performers of all stripes.

  Place Georges Pompidou, 33-1-44-78-12-33, centrepompidou.fr

• Musée du Louvre

  How can you describe the world’s most famous museum without name-dropping some of the artists that are part of its collection? (Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo for starters.) Perhaps by saying the museum’s architecture – from the heritage 17th century pavilions to I.M. Pei’s highly controversial glass pyramid – is a masterpiece in itself.

  33-1-40-20-50-50, louvre.fr

• Musée d’Orsay

  This old train station has been transformed into a museum primarily showcasing the work of Impressionists. The Musée d’Orsay has one of the largest collections of European art from the 19th and 20th centuries, with paintings from Vincent Van Gogh, Claude Monet and Paul Cézanne, among others.

  1, rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 33-1-40-49-48-14, musee-orsay.fr

Shopping

• Shine

  This international design HQ (Marc Jacobs, Chloé, Tsubi) brings the world to the Marais district.

  15 rue de Poitou, 33-1-48-05-80-10From: Globe Shopper

• Boutique Sultan

  Using natural pigments, Jérémy Sultan re-envisions military and turn-of-the-century clothing. (By appointment only.)

  12, rue de Jouy, 33-6-08-28-62-66From: Globe Shopper

• Écoute! Écoute!

  Helpful little devices – from headphones to hearing aids – abound at this audio design store. We like the cleverly customizable travel alarm clock from Bellman, which flashes lights and vibrates as it rings.

  168, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 33-1-56-88-39-10, ecoute-ecoute.comFrom: Globe Shopper

• Colette

  This eclectic shop is now one of Paris’ hubs of hipsterdom. Street culture and chic bohème style meet at Colette, a cultural institution where you can find anything from high-end fashion brands to up-and-coming young designers, as well as music, toys and books.

  213, rue Saint-Honoré, 33-1-55-35-33-90, colette.frFrom: Globe Shopper

• Boutique Scooter

  This custom jeweller blends sleek modernist lines with big-bauble play.

  10, rue de Turbigo, 33-1-45-08-50-54, scooter.frFrom: Globe Shopper

• Shimji

  Shimji’s white cube design contrasts with the clothes it holds: bursts of colour in wools and silks.

  7, rue du Perche, 33-1-42-72-10-01From: Globe Shopper

• Onitsuka Tiger Paris

  Tokyo’s outpost of streetwear and shoes combines materials (including wood) in unexpected ways.

  22, rue des Halles, 33-1-55-35-30-10, onitsukatiger.frFrom: Globe Shopper

Attractions

• Basilique du Sacré-Coeur

  Set on butte Montmartre, the highest point in the city, Basilique du Sacré-Coeur is an icon of the culture district. Don’t miss the view of the city from the inner dome.

  35, rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre, 33-1-53-41-89-00, sacre-coeur-montmartre.comFrom: enRoute, November 2008: A Holiday from the Holidays

• Jardin du Luxembourg

  The calm green expanses of this huge public park make it an enchanting getaway from the hustle of Paris streets – drift into reverie by the iconic mini-lake where children delight in sailing miniature boats. Munch your morning pastry alongside Beethoven, George Sand and Baudelaire – well, statues of them, anyway.

  15, rue de Vaugirard, 33-1-42-34-20-00

Getting from the Airport

Roissy Charles de Gaulle airport is about 28 kilometres from the city centre, making for a 45-minute, €50 taxi ride. Line B (the blue line) of the RER commuter train travels from Roissy to several stops in the city centre, including Saint Michel and Gare du Nord, and costs about €8.40. parisbytrain.com

Taxis

Taxis can be found at designated taxi ranks, but they’re also fairly easy to hail in the street, except around the time of the last Metro at 1 am.

Public Transportation

There’s no argument good enough to rent a car in Paris, not even bragging rights about driving in the Arc de Triomphe roundabout. Parking and traffic are a nightmare. The Metro, in contrast, is fast, efficient and inexpensive. Single tickets are €1.60, a book of ten (called a carnet) is €11.40. The Paris Visite tourist ticket is good for unlimited rides for a specific number of days. ratp.fr

Walking & Cycling

You’ll have no need to hit the hotel gym here – Paris is a fantastic city to walk in, more compact than people realize, and offering up endless sensory stimulation. (Another bonus: guiltless Camembert.) The Vélib’ rent-a-bike system has been a phenomenal success; you’ll see their stands everywhere. Just unlock a bike after making a credit card deposit and you’ll be pedalling like a Parisian. velib.paris.fr