Santiago
Santiago
© Tifonimages | Dreamstime.com
In a city where a high-rise skyline competes with immutable mountain peaks, local markets full of traditional craft goods mingle with designer boutiques and neighbourhood watering holes seem perfectly compatible with a frenetic supper-club culture, visitors learn to welcome contradiction. And they should – these confluent opposites make Santiago one of the most vibrant cities in South America.
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Where to stay in Santiago
W Santiago
The Ritz-Carlton
El Alcalde 15, Santiago, 56-2-470-8500, ritzcarlton.comFrom: enRoute, November 2009Our only dilemma at the Ritz-Carlton was choosing between its two main restaurants. Chef Tomás Olivera’s Chilean oysters, sautéed congrio (a white-fleshed fish) in abalone sauce and steamed hake with celeriac purée at Adra show off the country’s exceptional seafood, while Wine 365 has over 365 different Chilean wines on its list (one for every day of the year!), including 24 of them by the glass.
San Cristobal Tower
Josefina Edwards de Ferrari 0100, Santiago, 56-2-707-1000, starwoodhotels.comFrom: enRoute, November 2009Perched between the Mapocho River and the green hills north of downtown, the San Cristobal Tower feels like it’s on a faraway island, but a walk across the river lands you smack bang in bustling Providencia. The lounge at L’Etoile Restaurant on the 21st floor is an otherworldly place to sip a pisco sour and take in the views of the Andes.
W Santiago
Isidora Goyenechea 3000, Santiago, 56-2-770-0000, starwoodhotels.comLocated in the capital’s glossy El Golf financial district, South America’s first W hotel lays it on with rooms inspired by Chile’s multifaceted landscape. The window-flanking soaker tubs are a standout feature. And if the tub isn’t big enough, head to the heated rooftop pool for a swim that affords views of the metropolis and the mountain-studded horizon beyond.
Grand Hyatt Santiago
Av. Presidente Kennedy 4601, Santiago, 56-2-950-1234, santiago.grand.hyatt.comFrom: onAir, November 2008The bed is a froth of linens, with a soft caramel throw at your feet, and orchids adorn the side table. Turn on the Yamaha sound system and gaze out at the snow-capped Andes. The three-floor AKO spa and health centre, elegant gardens and Anakena restaurant make this property a must-stay in one of Latin America’s most vibrant cities.
Where to Eat in Santiago
© Jody Rogac
Liguria
Av. Providencia 137, 56-2-235-7914, liguria.clAsk fun-loving Santiaguinos where to get a great Chilean meal and they’ll invariably send you to Liguria, a sprawling eatery whose decor can only be described as garage-sale chic. Start with a plate of surf clams au gratin and a dish of snow crab claws in a spicy merken sauce before moving on to the main event – carne mechada, a meaty pot roast sure to put hair on your chest.
Hostería Doña Tina
Camino Los Refugios del Arrayán 15125,, 56-2-321-6546, donatina.clHostería Doña Tina is a must, especially if you go in the summer (i.e. winter in the northern hemisphere), when the sixtysomething Doña Tina prepares such classic Chilean dishes as pastel de choclo (fresh ground corn with beef, chicken and basil) and cordero arvejado, a hearty lamb stew.
Mercado Central
Au coin de Calle San Pablo and 21 de Mayo, 56-2-696-8327, mercadocentral.clFor a taste of Chile’s natural plenitude, there’s nothing like the bounty of fresh seafood and produce at Mercado Central, where the steamed razor clams sold by fishmongers on site are worth the visit alone. Sit down at the small tables or at the counter of pretty much any picada to sample the nation’s most popular dishes, including fried congrio with tomato and avocado salad.
Cienfuegos Restaurante y Bar
Constitución 67, 56-2-248-9080, restaurantecienfuegos.clYou won’t want to leave Cienfuegos without trying the caldillo de mariscos, a fish stew with local heirloom and sweet potatoes. Chef Benjamin Cienfuegos, one of the city’s young, avant-garde kitchen gurus, takes the country’s simple ingredients and turns them into sophisticated dishes that burst with flavour.
Fábula Restaurante
Marín 0285, 56-2-222-3016, restaurantefabula.clLocated in a house in Providencia, the intimate Fábula, with seating for 42 patrons, feels a bit like a friend’s dining room. The food, however, is elevated to a whole different standard by executive chef Carlos García Schätzle. The osso bucco braised in coffee, for instance, lets you know right away that you’re in for an eclectic treat. And if you’re in the mood for a fishy tale, the menu features some mighty good seafood, too.
Fuente Alemana
Pedro de Valdivia 210, 56-2-233-4705If today’s a sandwich day, head to Fuente Alemana for a mayonnaise-heavy lomito – pork piled high on a bun with fixings like melted mantecoso cheese, mashed avocado, ripe tomatoes and tangy sauerkraut.
Galindo
Dardignac 098 esq. Constitución, 56-2-777-0116, galindo.clBusiness folks, students and young families alike swear by the offerings at this homey Bellavista restaurant. Don’t let the dinged-up wooden tables or the downscale checkered tablecloths discourage you – the food here tastes heavenly. We suggest a big bowl of the classic fish dish, caldillo de congrio.
La Chascona
Fernando Márquez de la Plata 0192, 56-2-777-8741, fundacionneruda.orgEven in the best hotels you’ll have trouble finding a decent cup of coffee (Nescafé, anyone?), so you’ll want to find a good café for your morning shot. At La Chascona, the late Nobel Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda’s residence-turned-museum in the Bellavista neighbourhood, you can learn a little before stopping by its coffee shop. The joe is something to write home about.
What to Do in Santiago
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
TurismoChile
Arts & Culture
MAVI Museo de Artes Visuales
José Victorino Lastarria 307, Plaza Mulato Gil de Castro, Santiago, 56-2-638-3502 / 664-9337, mavi.clWith a collection that includes works of sculpture, photography, installation art, painting and multimedia, MAVI pays tribute to some 400 avant-garde Chilean artists whose creations on display here date back to the 1960s.
El Museo Chileno de Arte Pre-Colombino
Bandera 361, Santiago, 56-2-688-7348, precolombino.clLocated in the former digs of the Royal Customs House, this central Santiago museum is a must-see. A striking collection of artifacts, including textiles and ceramics, takes the visitor back to before European contact, revealing the rich visual culture of the indigenous peoples that lived in Chile and other parts of Latin America.
stuART Contemporary
Pedro de Valdivia 0180, Providencia, 56-2-335-51-00, stuart.clPerhaps better known for its presence at leading contemporary art fairs worldwide, this gallery also shows cutting-edge graphics, drawing and painting by homegrown talent in its minimalist central Santiago exhibition space. For visitors in need of an energy boost, Stuart Caffe serves up some serious java in a sleek interior and on an adjoining patio shaded by mature trees.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Parque Forestal s/n. Casilla 3209, 56-2-633-44-72, mnba.clSouth America’s oldest fine arts museum, Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes hosts a collection that traces the country’s history from colonial times, from art that blends Spanish and indigenous culture to the influence of European styles in the portraits of Chile’s national heroes.
Museo de Arte Contemporaneo
Parque Forestal s/n, and Avenida Matucana 464, 56-2-977-1741; 56-2-681-7813, mac.uchile.clRun by the Faculty of Arts at the Universidad de Chile, MAC has two locations, one of which displays leading national and international contemporary art, the other a showcase for experimental art created at home and abroad. MAC plays a leading role in the country’s art Triennial, with activities like lectures and artist visits planned throughout the year.
Attractions
Cerro San Cristóbal and Cerro Santa Lucía
A visit to any city never feels quite complete without getting a sense for its scope. Head to the San Cristóbal and Santa Lucía hills for panoramic vistas of Santiago and the Andes mountain range beyond. With public pools on the former and charming patios on the latter, the climb to the top will soon be forgotten.
Wine Routes
What better way to experience Chile than through its wineries and vineyards? Several companies offer day-long excursions to the producers outside the capital, while others can arrange a tour with vineyard stays.
Wine Travel Chile 56-2-474-2731, winetravelchile.com
Latin Wine Tours, 56-2-813-6056, latinwinetours.com
Santiago Adventures, 56-2-244-2750, santiagoadventures.com
Transportation in Santiago
TurismoChile
With more than a third of the cars in the entire country hitting its streets, Santiago presents transportation challenges for even the most seasoned traveller. In a race against chaos, the public transportation network is constantly being expanded. When it works, it’s a pleasure, thanks in part to the local artwork displayed everywhere. If you can’t get where you’re going on the Metro, your best bet is hailing one of the very affordable taxis.
Getting from the Airport
Comodoro Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport is located about 25 kilometres northwest of Santiago’s city centre and is efficiently served by the regional highway network, making the ride to your hotel an easy half-hour trip. Lots of options greet you in arrivals, including taxis and shuttles.
Taxies
It’s important to note the difference between regular taxis and communal taxis: The former take you from A to B, while the latter pick up other passengers, creating a route on the fly. To get around the city efficiently, the first option is a safer bet. Look for black cars with a yellow roof. With a minimum charge of only 200 pesos ($0.40), they’re worth it.
Public Transportation
The ever-expanding Santiago Metro bypasses the city’s infamous gridlock; it’s safe and costs less than a dollar even at peak hours. And with five lines, it’ll drop you close to most attractions and shopping.
City Guides
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