Santiago

© Tifonimages | Dreamstime.com

In a city where a high-rise skyline competes with immutable mountain peaks, local markets full of traditional craft goods mingle with designer boutiques and neighbourhood watering holes seem perfectly compatible with a frenetic supper-club culture, visitors learn to welcome contradiction. And they should – these confluent opposites make Santiago one of the most vibrant cities in South America. 

 

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Serving Santiago

enRoute, November 2009

onAir, November 2008

Where to stay in Santiago

W Santiago

• The Ritz-Carlton

  Our only dilemma at the Ritz-Carlton was choosing between its two main restaurants. Chef Tomás Olivera’s Chilean oysters, sautéed congrio (a white-fleshed fish) in abalone sauce and steamed hake with celeriac purée at Adra show off the country’s exceptional seafood, while Wine 365 has over 365 different Chilean wines on its list (one for every day of the year!), including 24 of them by the glass. 

  El Alcalde 15, Santiago, 56-2-470-8500, ritzcarlton.comFrom: enRoute, November 2009

• San Cristobal Tower

  Perched between the Mapocho River and the green hills north of downtown, the San Cristobal Tower feels like it’s on a faraway island, but a walk across the river lands you smack bang in bustling Providencia. The lounge at L’Etoile Restaurant on the 21st floor is an otherworldly place to sip a pisco sour and take in the views of the Andes.

  Josefina Edwards de Ferrari 0100, Santiago, 56-2-707-1000, starwoodhotels.comFrom: enRoute, November 2009

• W Santiago

  Located in the capital’s glossy El Golf financial district, South America’s first W hotel lays it on with rooms inspired by Chile’s multifaceted landscape. The window-flanking soaker tubs are a standout feature. And if the tub isn’t big enough, head to the heated rooftop pool for a swim that affords views of the metropolis and the mountain-studded horizon beyond.

  Isidora Goyenechea 3000, Santiago, 56-2-770-0000, starwoodhotels.com

• Grand Hyatt Santiago

  The bed is a froth of linens, with a soft caramel throw at your feet, and orchids adorn the side table. Turn on the Yamaha sound system and gaze out at the snow-capped Andes. The three-floor AKO spa and health centre, elegant gardens and Anakena restaurant make this property a must-stay in one of Latin America’s most vibrant cities.

  Av. Presidente Kennedy 4601, Santiago, 56-2-950-1234, santiago.grand.hyatt.comFrom: onAir, November 2008

Where to Eat in Santiago

© Jody Rogac

• Liguria

  Ask fun-loving Santiaguinos where to get a great Chilean meal and they’ll invariably send you to Liguria, a sprawling eatery whose decor can only be described as garage-sale chic. Start with a plate of surf clams au gratin and a dish of snow crab claws in a spicy merken sauce before moving on to the main event – carne mechada, a meaty pot roast sure to put hair on your chest.

  Av. Providencia 137, 56-2-235-7914, liguria.cl

• Hostería Doña Tina

  Hostería Doña Tina is a must, especially if you go in the summer (i.e. winter in the northern hemisphere), when the sixtysomething Doña Tina prepares such classic Chilean dishes as pastel de choclo (fresh ground corn with beef, chicken and basil) and cordero arvejado, a hearty lamb stew.

  Camino Los Refugios del Arrayán 15125,, 56-2-321-6546, donatina.cl

• Mercado Central

  For a taste of Chile’s natural plenitude, there’s nothing like the bounty of fresh seafood and produce at Mercado Central, where the steamed razor clams sold by fishmongers on site are worth the visit alone. Sit down at the small tables or at the counter of pretty much any picada to sample the nation’s most popular dishes, including fried congrio with tomato and avocado salad.

  Au coin de Calle San Pablo and 21 de Mayo, 56-2-696-8327, mercadocentral.cl

• Cienfuegos Restaurante y Bar

  You won’t want to leave Cienfuegos without trying the caldillo de mariscos, a fish stew with local heirloom and sweet potatoes. Chef Benjamin Cienfuegos, one of the city’s young, avant-garde kitchen gurus, takes the country’s simple ingredients and turns them into sophisticated dishes that burst with flavour.

  Constitución 67, 56-2-248-9080, restaurantecienfuegos.cl

• Fábula Restaurante

  Located in a house in Providencia, the intimate Fábula, with seating for 42 patrons, feels a bit like a friend’s dining room. The food, however, is elevated to a whole different standard by executive chef Carlos García Schätzle. The osso bucco braised in coffee, for instance, lets you know right away that you’re in for an eclectic treat. And if you’re in the mood for a fishy tale, the menu features some mighty good seafood, too.

  Marín 0285, 56-2-222-3016, restaurantefabula.cl

• Fuente Alemana

  If today’s a sandwich day, head to Fuente Alemana for a mayonnaise-heavy lomito – pork piled high on a bun with fixings like melted mantecoso cheese, mashed avocado, ripe tomatoes and tangy sauerkraut.

  Pedro de Valdivia 210, 56-2-233-4705

• Galindo

  Business folks, students and young families alike swear by the offerings at this homey Bellavista restaurant. Don’t let the dinged-up wooden tables or the downscale checkered tablecloths discourage you – the food here tastes heavenly. We suggest a big bowl of the classic fish dish, caldillo de congrio.

  Dardignac 098 esq. Constitución, 56-2-777-0116, galindo.cl

• La Chascona

  Even in the best hotels you’ll have trouble finding a decent cup of coffee (Nescafé, anyone?), so you’ll want to find a good café for your morning shot. At La Chascona, the late Nobel Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda’s residence-turned-museum in the Bellavista neighbourhood, you can learn a little before stopping by its coffee shop. The joe is something to write home about.

  Fernando Márquez de la Plata 0192, 56-2-777-8741, fundacionneruda.org

What to Do in Santiago

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

TurismoChile

Transportation in Santiago

TurismoChile

With more than a third of the cars in the entire country hitting its streets, Santiago presents transportation challenges for even the most seasoned traveller. In a race against chaos, the public transportation network is constantly being expanded. When it works, it’s a pleasure, thanks in part to the local artwork displayed everywhere. If you can’t get where you’re going on the Metro, your best bet is hailing one of the very affordable taxis.