Sydney
Sydney
Sydney is one of those rare cities that somehow got both the looks and the brains. Melbourne scoffs that its gorgeous sibling to the north lacks culture and Brisbane touts its year-round sunshine, but neither hides its jealousy very well. The truth is that Sydney is a pulsing, vibrant, cosmopolitan city with two top-tier research universities and an art scene to rival anything in the Southern Hemisphere – and it just happens to be blessed with sun, sand and surf. Don’t hate it because it’s beautiful.
Where to Stay in Sydney
BLUE Sydney
Diamant Boutique Hotel
14 Kings Cross Rd., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9295-8888, http://diamant.com.auWhen this glistening 76-room property opened in 2007, it was a watershed moment in the transformation of Sydney’s notorious Kings Cross nightlife district. The sex shops and after-hours clubs had been slowly giving way to avant-garde restaurants and cocktail lounges for the better part of a decade, but the Diamant was one of the first major new investments to be made right in the heart of the Cross, not on the fringes in more upscale neighbourhoods like Potts Point. And the design is as bold as the location – dark woods and smoked glass make the lobby feel like the exclusive lounges nearby, and a hard-edged minimalism is maintained throughout the hotel. Rates are reasonable (usually under AU$200 for a standard room), so consider the upgrade to a harbour-view room or a courtyard suite with a balcony.
Establishment Hotel
5 Bridge Lane,, 61-2-9240-3100, merivale.comThis Circular Quay boutique property’s 31 rooms are divided between two colour schemes reflecting the hotel’s two personalities. The darker rooms, where rich chocolate hardwood floors contrast with white mod furnishings and fuchsia accents, suit the after-dark persona: stylish hub for the upscale nightlife scene. The lighter rooms, done in creams and beiges with teal accents, speak to the hotel’s daytime mood: an intimate, conveniently located alternative to the chain business hotels in the Central Business District.
Shangri-La
176 Cumberland St., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9250-6000, shangri-la.comWith five stars and 563 rooms (the most in the city), the Shangri-La is in a category all its own. In addition to size and prestige, it’s got an unbeatable location – in The Rocks, about as close to the Opera House as it gets – and a solid gold brand behind it. The service and polish aren’t quite up to the standards of Shangri-La’s Asian properties yet, but perks like the Zen-inducing CHI spa and the breathtaking harbour views from the 36th-floor Altitude Restaurant compensate for the little things.
BLUE Sydney
6 Cowper Wharf Rd.,, 61-2-9331-9000, tajhotels.comThe closest you can get to staying on a posh yacht in the Woolloomooloo Bay marina, this charismatic hotel offers a unique blend of playful Miami-modern influences and maritime themes. The nearby waterfront restaurants are an asset, but our favourite feature of the location is the walk through The Domain and the Botanic Gardens that takes you to Circular Quay. The simple, contemporary rooms are softened by historic photographs of the heritage site, but Internet-enabled TVs bring you back to the 21st century.
Sofitel Sydney Wentworth
61–101 Phillip St., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9228-9188, sofitelsydney.com.auFrom: Sydney's Inner CircleThe recently renovated Sofitel Wentworth hotel is located in the heart of the Central Business District, steps from the Opera House, Botanic Gardens and many museums. Make sure you check out its fifth-floor indoor-outdoor restaurant, the Garden Court, elegant in black and white.
The Observatory Hotel
89–113 Kent St., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9256-2222, observatoryhotel.com.auA Fair Dinkum Aussie Dictionary by your bed, paintings of Aussie Outback scenes on your walls and views extending past the Millers Point dockyard and all the way to Darling Harbour from your window – you’re getting the full immersion treatment here. Another fun detail: The indoor pool features a Bondi beach scene trompe l’oeil, complete with lifeguards. Don’t miss the hotel’s own fabulous collection of Sidney Nolan pieces and other great Australian art.
Food & Drink
Where to Eat in Sydney
Icebergs
1 Notts Ave.,, 61-2-9365-9000, idrb.comPerched on the rocks above the south end of Bondi overlooking the surfing action, Icebergs is the ideal place to cap off the clifftop walk from Bronte with the best steak in the Eastern Beaches.
Aria
1 Macquarie St., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9252-2555, ariarestaurant.com.auViews of the Opera House – and succulent lamb – are on offer at celebrity chef Matt Moran’s Aria. Both the menu and the award-winning wine list by sommelier Matthew Dunne celebrate Australian producers.
Le Kiosk
1 Marine Parade, Shelly Beach, Manly, Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9977-4122, lekiosk.com.auIf your idea of a relaxing Sydney afternoon is a passion fruit and kiwi mojito, a plate of fresh oysters and stunning ocean views, Le Kiosk is your spot. A short ferry ride from Circular Quay takes you to the beach-town-cum-suburb of Manly; from there, it’s a beautiful walk along the water to Shelly Beach and this heritage cottage right on the sand.
Rockpool Bar and Grill
66 Hunter St., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-8078-1900, rockpool.com.auCelebrity chef Neil Perry’s newest and boldest venture is simultaneously of the moment and a charming throwback. The impressive deco setting, complete with grand marble pillars and an even grander fauna-filled menu, speak to a time when fine dining meant wearing a tie and ordering something that contained both lobster and filet mignon. But paradoxically, by being so self-consciously unsubtle, Rockpool has managed to ride the current trend toward simple dishes prepared using traditional techniques as well as any restaurant in the city.
Bodega Tapas Restaurant & Bar
216 Commonwealth St., Surry Hills, Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9212-7766, bodegatapas.comThis fun-loving tapas spot in the hipster haven of Surry Hills transforms into a sultry wine bar before your eyes after about 11, when the cool kids trickle in from shows at the nearby indie venues, so down your empanadas before then and reach for the Tempranillo.
Glebe Point Diner
407 Glebe Point Rd., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9660-2646Glebe feels a little out of the way if you’re anywhere east of Darling Harbour, but this humble, inviting neighbourhood restaurant is worth the trip. Given the care and craft that chef Alex Kearns, formerly of Sean’s Panaroma in Bondi, invests in every dish, the AU$20–$30 mains feel like a steal.
Bentley Restaurant and Bar
320 Crown St., Surry Hills, Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9332-2344, thebentley.com.auThe big draw at this stylish Surry Hills resto is the prix fixe menu. A hundred bucks (or so) buys you seven courses of chef Brent Savage’s modern Australian interpretation of progressive French and Spanish cooking. For a little extra, you get pairings from sommelier and co-owner Nick Hildebrandt’s inspired list.
Sailors Thai, The Rocks
106 George St., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9251-2466,, sailorsthai.com.auBecause of Australia’s proximity to southeast Asia, Sydney’s Thai restaurants were among the first in the world to start exploring the potential of this rich culinary tradition for contemporary fine dining. The Rocks location of Sailors Thai is one of the best examples.
Billy Kwong
3–355 Crown St., Surry Hills, Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9332-3300, kyliekwong.orgFrom: Sydney's Inner CircleEast meets West at tiny, sustainable Billy Kwong – think red-braised, caramelized organic pork belly with Chinese coleslaw.
Sydney Tower Restaurant
100 Market St., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-8223-3800, sydneytowerrestaurant.com.auFrom: Sydney's Inner CircleThe whole city provides the backdrop to a meal at the revolving Sydney Tower Restaurant, a meat-eaters’ mecca.
Activities
Arts & Culture
The Arthouse Hotel
275 Pitt St., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9284-1200, thearthousehotel.com.auFormerly the School of Arts Building, built in 1836, the elegant Arthouse Hotel was the result of a beautifully executed 2001 renovation. Part bar, part nightclub, part museum and part art school, Arthouse celebrates music, art and entertainment in fun and inviting ways. Try the life drawing workshops if you’re curious about how all these elements fit together.
Artspace
43–51 Cowper Wharf Rd., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9356-0555,, http://artspace.org.auSet in Woolloomooloo’s historic Gunnery Building, this contemporary gallery presents between 20 and 30 projects every year and hosts 50 artists in residence. With public lectures, educational activities and regular events, Artspace is a pillar of the Australian artistic community.
Art Gallery of New South Wales
Art Gallery Rd., The Domain, Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9225-1744, artgallery.nsw.gov.auFrom: Sydney's Inner CircleOne of Australia’s most cherished cultural institutions, the Art Gallery of New South Wales has an impressive permanent collection of Australian, European and Asian art. Aboriginal Australian art has well-deserved pride of place. Over 40 exhibitions are presented annually, from photography to contemporary Western art, painting and sculpture. The museum also offers lectures, courses and symposia throughout the year.
The Powerhouse Museum
500 Harris St., Ultimo, Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9217-0111, powerhousemuseum.comFrom: Sydney's Inner CircleWith more than 400,000 artifacts and works of art, the Powerhouse (so called because it’s located in the old Ultimo Powerhouse) is one of the city’s most important museums.
Attractions
Bondi Beach
Almost exactly one kilometre from end to end, Bondi is a lot longer than it looks in pictures; there are actually three distinct zones, each with its own character. The middle, right in front of Bondi Park, is where most of the tourists cluster, while the north end appeals more to locals. The south end, where you’ll find the historic Icebergs Club, is the surfers’ hangout, since the surf gets steadily bigger from the north end to the south. Weaker swimmers beware: The south end is also home to a famous rip current nicknamed the “backpackers’ express.”
Bronte Beach
Tiny Bronte is one of Sydney’s best-kept secrets. Okay, maybe it hasn’t been kept that well – call it a “lesser-known asset.” Its most charming features are the relative scarcity of tourists and the saltwater pool dug out of the rocks at the south end. More like a small-town park than its crowd-choked neighbour, Bronte offers relatively limited food options. About a half-dozen small restaurants line Bronte Road opposite the beach, and a few are pretty good, but your best bet is to bring something to throw on one of the coin-operated public barbecues.
Manly
Manly is the Bondi of the northern beaches, which is to say it’s almost as big and almost as popular but completely different in character. It hardly seems like you’re in Sydney at all, with the North Head obscuring the skyline – it’s more like being in a little vacation town up the coast. You can drive from downtown by crossing the Harbour Bridge, but you’re better off taking the 30-minute ferry from Circular Quay. And when you get there, take your time cruising The Corso as you walk to the beach – there are lots of local artisans’ shops mixed in with the tourist kitsch.
Sydney Aquarium
Aquarium Pier, Darling Harbour, Sydney, Australia, 61-7-5519-6200, sydneyaquarium.com.auThough mostly for kids, the Sydney Aquarium in Darling Harbour offers one exhibit that’s totally thrilling for even the stony-faced adult: the shark tank. Visitors walk through acrylic glass tunnels as some of Australia’s 170 species of sharks swim all around them.
Ian Thorpe Aquatic Centre
458 Harris St., Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9518-7220, itac.org.auIt’s only appropriate that one of Sydney’s most impressive recent architectural achievements is named after the Sydney-born swimmer responsible for some of its most impressive recent athletic achievements. Completed in 2007, this fitness centre in Ultimo, with its signature undulating ceiling, is open to the public seven days a week.
Royal Randwick
Alison Rd., Randwick, Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9663-8400, royalrandwick.comSydneysiders love their horse racing, and the historic Royal Randwick track is where the affair began, in June of 1833. Today, the races are still a passion and a great excuse to don extravagant hats and sip Aussie wine in the sun.
Paddington Markets
395 Oxford St., Paddington, Sydney, Australia, 61-2-9331-2923, paddingtonmarkets.com.auWith a dizzying array of artisanal crafts, Paddington Markets is one of the best spots in the city to pick up Aussie-made gifts. Grab a coffee and browse for crafty jewellery and accessories or just enjoy street performances. Over 250 stalls are open for business near the Paddington Uniting Church every Saturday starting at 10 a.m.
Other Activities
Getting Around Sydney
Like any city built around a natural harbour, Sydney has its transportation challenges – trying to get across to the north side of the bridge at the wrong time of day can be a challenge – and there’s no denying that there’s a vaguely Californian car culture at play here. Still, it’s a well-designed city that offers lots of good ways to get around without renting a car. There may be some striking similarities, but L.A. this is not.
Getting from the Airport
The Airport Link is the best way to get into the city from the airport. Trains are frequent and they get you to Central Station in less than 15 minutes; from there you can find connecting light-rail trains to take you anywhere. The fare system can be a little confusing, but expect to pay about AU$15 to get from the International Terminal to Circular Quay.
Taxis
Taxis in Sydney are safe, reliable and plentiful. The drivers are usually a great source of info as you explore the city. The starting fare is AU$3.20 and the rate is $1.93 per kilometre after that.
Public Transportation
Sydney’s commuter light-rail network, called CityRail, is remarkably extensive. It’s more like a commuter train than a subway, but the stops are in all the right places, so most destinations are accessible without using the also extensive but far less convenient bus network. Fares are calculated by distance according to a zone map. cityrail.info; sydneybuses.info
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