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Toronto

Toronto

Queen Street West

It’s sprawling, it’s noisy, it’s the commercial capital of Canada, but if you get a little cozy with Toronto, you soon realize that, at its core, it’s just a big softy. There’s a comfy little nook for everyone in this remarkably diverse megacity. No matter how well you know it, Toronto always hides another undiscovered boutique, gallery, restaurant or antique shop in its intimate neighborhoods – and that’s why we love to love it.

Where to Stay in Toronto

Hotel Le Germain

  • The Hazelton Hotel

    Though you’ll be situated in the thick of Toronto’s best shopping and dining, you may not want to leave the comfort of this boutique hotel. Rooms are spacious and festooned with Canadian art, while the lap pool boasts an elaborately-painted bottom that’s reason enough to strap on the goggles.

    118 Yorkville Ave., Toronto, 416-963-6300 / 866-473-6301, thehazeltonhotel.com
  • Park Hyatt Toronto

    Amazing views of the city can be had from the hotel’s elegant yet comfy Roof Lounge – made all the better with one of the bar’s signature martinis in hand. If your idea of relaxation tends more towards the therapeutic, try aquatic reiki at the Stillwater Spa: after being led into a flooded marble room, walk down a flight of steps into a bathtub the size of a master bedroom filled with body-temperature water. It might be our favourite spa treatment in the country.

    4 Avenue Rd., 416-925-1234, parktoronto.hyatt.comFrom: Stay Well
  • Windsor Arms Hotel

    Model and rocker wife extraordinaire Iman appreciated this hotel’s prime Yorkville location and personalized service while shooting in Toronto – staff made sure there was a freshly ocean-plucked selection every day for this pescivore. Built in the 1920s, the Windsor Arms still retains an old-world charm despite its luxury refurbishment.

    18 St. Thomas St., 416-971-9666 / 877-999-2767, windsorarmshotel.comFrom: Iman’s Yorkville Avenue
  • The Drake Hotel

    This is what the one-time Canadian Pacific Railway hub looks like after a $6-million facelift. Located in West Queen West, the Drake is Toronto’s hipster hotel, complete with sushi and raw bar, café, lounge, private dining room and underground club (appropriately named The Underground).

    1150 Queen St. W., 416-531-5042 / 866-DRAKETO, thedrakehotel.ca
  • Cosmopolitan Toronto Centre Hotel & Spa

    Located in the Financial District, this hotel’s penthouse suites on the 27th floor give you a stunning view of the city while the five-star Shizen Spa offers treatments for the body and mind.

    8 Colborne St., 800-958-3488, cosmotoronto.com
  • The Fairmont Royal York

    Directly across from Union Station, this regal, landmark hotel, which opened in 1929, is within walking distance of many of Toronto’s attractions, including the SkyDome (a.k.a. The Rogers Centre), the theatre district and Harbourfront. But on-site temptations also abound, including desserts accented with honey harvested from the hotel’s own rooftop hive.

    100 Front St. W., 416-368-2511 / 866-540-4489, fairmont.com/royalyork
  • Four Seasons Hotel Toronto

    Ideally located in the city’s posh Yorkville neighbourhood, this hotel has everything for the health-conscious traveller – from the black cod with bok choy and tempura scallions on the room service menu to MP3 players loaded with the dulcet voice of a personal trainer to guide you through your workout. Good thing, too, because you’ll want to be feeling svelte before you drop into the area’s posh boutiques.

    21 Avenue Rd., 416-964-0411, fourseasons.comFrom: Stay Well
  • Hôtel Le Germain

    Hôtel Le Germain is Toronto's original boutique hotel and may still be its best. Note: the see-through rain showers in most rooms mean you'll get very intimate with your fellow guest. (Luckily, there are shuttered blinds.) Our favourite perk? The breakfast with Montreal bagels on the mezzanine level.

    30 Mercer St., 416-345-9500 / 866-345-9501, germaintoronto.comFrom: The Road Warrior

Where to Eat and Drink in Toronto

Harbord Room

Paula Wilson

Where to Eat in Toronto

  • Chakra

    This Indian restaurant is one of many that have cropped up serving refined versions of tandoori and Mughlai classics. In addition to the impressive cocktail and martini list, it offers a number of great little-known bottles from Canada’s own Niagara wine region.

    2497 Yonge St., 416-487-7188, chakra.toFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Gilead Café

    This Jamie Kennedy project discreetly tucked away in a former office space is a must for those who know his cooking – and is even more essential for those who don’t. If you enjoy peeking behind the scenes, you’ll love the open kitchen concept.

    4 Gilead Place, 647-288-0680, gileadcafe.caFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Gourmet Burger Co.

    The GBC offers quick, affordable and delicious burger-creations. A testament to their craft: they nail the tricky Aussie burger, with fried egg, bacon, braised beets and grilled pineapple. Nods go to the Works Burger & Mushroom Melt, not to mention the fries that combine just enough crisp with just enough squish.

    482 Parliament St., 647-344-5103, thegourmetburgerco.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • The Harbord Room

    Co-owners Dave Mitton (Czehoski) and chef Cory Vitiello (the Drake Hotel), along with sommelier Anton Potvin (Niagara Street Café), have brought a taste of Queen West cool to the Annex. Joining calamari, clams and chorizo with olives, stewed tomatoes and basil isn’t rewriting the rules of gastronomy, but it is a classic combination that works. When those flavours are paired up with the Aphrodisiac cocktail, an amorous blend of herbs, vodka, Chambord and lemonade, the combination takes on new dimensions.

    89 Harbord St., 416-962-8989, theharbordroom.comFrom: Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2008
  • Amaya Bread Bar

    With its bold design and small, tapas-style plates based on the classic staples of Indian cuisine, this bistro is sure to impress. A new venture by the owners of Amaya and Amaya Express, two of Toronto’s hottest addresses for Middle Eastern flavours, the Bread Bar wins points for the best nan in the business.

    3305 Yonge St., 416-487-1100, amayasbreadbar.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Aspetta Caffe

    This friendly neighbourhood bistro offers simple, fresh Italian fare, such as panini, pasta and gelato. Chef/owner Samantha Biderman learned all the secrets while studying regional Italian cuisine in Florence.

    207 Augusta Ave., 416-826-2865From: enRoute's Top 25
  • The Beet

    This organic café and market serves all-natural teas, smoothies, beer and wine. The selection of prepared foods, sourced from local farmers, is the perfect way to impress guests without getting burnout in the kitchen.

    2945 Dundas St. W., 416-916-2368, thebeet.caFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • C5

    The newly minted restaurant of the Royal Ontario Museum showcases the prodigious talent of young Executive Chef Teddy Corrado, who earned A-list status in his rookie season as Chef de Cuisine. Part of his success can be attributed to the care he puts into choosing his ingredients. The best example of his sourcing strategy is the bone-on 90-day aged beef tenderloin he gets from local Cumbrae Farms.

    The Royal Ontario Museum, 416-586-7928, c5restaurant.caFrom: Making the Grade-A
  • FRANK

    Frankly, the AGO’s restaurant, FRANK, is an effort to cash in on its architect’s cachet. Executive Chef Anne Yarymowich collaborated with Frank Gehry in designing the space, with compelling and unexpected results. The wine list is exclusively Ontarian and the food is locally sourced, from the selection of Fred’s Bread to the succulent pan-fried lake trout.

    Art Gallery of Ontario, 317 Dundas St. W., 416-979-6648, ago.net/frankFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Hank’s Café

    Jamie Kennedy is en route to ubiquity with his latest venue, which once again demonstrates his winning formula. Located next to the Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar, the low-key Hank’s features a soul-food menu with homemade granola for breakfast and a daily stew for lunch. It’s slightly friendlier on the wallet, though just as chic.

    9.5 Church St., 647-288-0670, jamiekennedy.caFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Kaiseki Sakura

    This refined restaurant is a haven of tranquility on an otherwise sketchy corner of downtown Toronto. Chef Daisuke Izutsu creates tiny, complex courses around seasonal ingredients and presents them like jewels. Squash soup with shrimp sautéed in sake is dense and light. Exquisitely fresh sashimi includes conger eel with umeboshi (Japanese pickled plum) and comes with fresh wasabi, a little sharkskin grater and homemade soya sauce. An ingredient we love: sakura means cherry blossom, and they are served here in their sweet preserved form.

    556 Church St., 416-923-1010, kaisekisakura.comFrom: The Next 20
  • Kultura

    Hanif Harji, one of Toronto’s most active restaurateurs (Blowfish, Doku 15 and, for a while, Colborne Lane), is the co-owner of one of the most beautiful restaurants in one of the city’s oldest buildings. The sprawling space houses a sleek bar on the ground floor, a vast dining area on the second and an intimate private room on the third. The dizzying array of global tapas touches on India (spiced tandoori beef), the Caribbean (shrimp with banana) and some hard-to-classify mashups (jerk chicken risotto and lemongrass pannacotta).

    169 King St. E., 416-363-9000, kulturarestaurant.comFrom: The Next 20
  • Lucien

    Chef Scot Woods brings some of the lessons he learned from a stage at Chicago’s avant-garde Alinea restaurant to bear on this restaurant’s whimsical, adventurous menu. “Fried” organic hen is matched to buttermilk croquette, creamed collards and a roast onion jus. The chocolate complex is anything but: Pure chocolate from various regions is offered like a flight of wine to showcase their various qualities.

    36 Wellington St. E., 416-504-9990, lucienrestaurant.comFrom: Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2008
  • Madeline’s

    Fans of the sublime Susur, rejoice! The owner, Susur Lee, has launched another venture, and this time he must be serious because he named it after his mother. From the Versailles-like opulence of red velvet and hardwood to the outstanding French cuisine, this place is continental to the core.

    601 King St. W., 416-603-2205, susur.com/madelinesFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Nota Bene

    Chef David Lee and his business partners Yannick Bigourdan and Franco Prevedello have created a restaurant that is both democratic and elite. Taking a cue from roadside diners, the menu offers daily specials that change with the seasons. The kitchen relies on Asian and Latin flavours for its inspiration, filtering and refining them in the process. 

    180 Queen St. W., 416-977-6400, notabenerestaurant.comFrom: Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2008
  • Osteria Ciceri e Tria

    This venture by Cosimo Mammoliti, the man behind Toronto’s well-loved Terroni, brings its older sibling’s authenticity to a casual osteria (Italian for “tavern”). With a menu that changes on the chef’s diurnal whim, a look defined by salvaged wood and industrial lighting and a 20-seat communal table dominating the room, Mammoliti has succeeded in freshening his winning formula.

    106 Victoria St., 416-955-0258, osteriacicerietria.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Petite Thuet

    Rosedale natives are not accustomed to change. Their little strip of Yonge Street is populated with perennials like the Rosedale Diner and Patachou. But this upstart bakery/prepped food spot is shaking things up, and once you try the handmade cakes and truffles, you’ll understand how baked goods can be such a disruptive force.

    1162 Yonge St., 416-924-2777, petitethuet.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • School Bakery and Café

    This venture is setting set sail in the location that sunk the troubled Warehouse Grill. The name is the theme: grade-school nostalgia. Brad Moore, a restless talent who spends as much time cooking at top restaurants as most of us do eating at them, steers the ship.

    70 Fraser Ave., 416-588-0005, sbcto.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Z-Teca Gourmet Burritos

    Burrito lovers now have a place to unburden themselves of Burrito Boyz break-up traumas while they savour their favourite cylindrical meal. This California-style chain is on the march, aiming to be the Starbucks of haute-Mexican. Just surrender now.

    327 King St. W., 416-862-9200From: enRoute's Top 25

Where to Drink in Toronto

  • Cornerstone Pub

    This upscale pub is ideal for an after-work drink with friends. Make sure to sample the rustic cuisine flavoured with regional ingredients. Plus, once a week, they clear a little space for local musicians to rock out.

    537 College St., 647-430-7111From: enRoute’s Top 25
  • Crush Wine Bar

    This King West temple to vinophilia didn’t need a makeover, but it got one anyway, courtesy of famed restaurant designers Giannone Associates. Now when you walk in, you find yourself in a 50-seat lounge space with a gorgeous cork and granite bar. Don’t miss the famous brown-bag blind tastings.

    455 King St. W., 416-977-1234, crushwinebar.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Meating @ the Bottomline

    The upscale sports bar is an oxymoron no more. This bar, right next door to the Hockey Hall of Fame and owned by former NHL goalie Wayne Cowley, has been deemed “the city’s classiest steakhouse and sports bar.” Casual sandwiches and burgers rub elbows with a more exotic menu item: kangaroo.

    22 Front St. W., Toronto, 416-362-7585, bottomlinerestaurant.comFrom: All-Star Bars
  • One

    “Is that who I think it is?” If you’re at One, the answer’s probably yes. Red hot from the moment it opened, the sleek grey and brown bar with its horsehair panels and flattering lighting continues to draw a glittering crowd. The drinks aren’t cheap, but the people-watching… Expect at least one pinky ring, acres of exposed chest (both women and men) and some very convincing plastic surgery.

    The Hazelton Hotel, 116 Yorkville Ave., 416-961-9600, onehazelton.comFrom: Canada's Top 15 Hotel Bars
  • Senses Bar

    Some bars look good, some sound good – Senses actually feels good. Sipping champagne across from us, the well-heeled woman reclined on the plush couch slides her hand along the velvet walls and closes her eyes. Cheque, please.

    SoHo Metropolitan Hotel, 318 Wellington St. W., 416-935-0400, metropolitan.com/sohoFrom: Canada's Top 15 Hotel Bars
  • SkyLounge

    Those hoping to see and be seen have plenty of options at this bar, while those looking for a little more privacy are likely to be tucked away from prying eyes at this stylish courtyard lounge – in the summer months, at least. The cocktail list runs the gamut from that most macho of martinis, the Rusty Nail, to its spiritual opposite: a Chocolate Raspberry Truffle that features abundant use of chocolate liqueur.

    InterContinental Toronto Yorkville, 220 Bloor St. W., 416-960-5200, toronto.intercontinental.comFrom: Canada's Top 15 Hotel Bars
  • Wayne Gretzky’s Restaurant

    This eponymous restaurant and bar may be a shameless shrine to the hockey god – serving up family recipes like Grandma Gretzky’s perogies with bacon and caramelized onions, and a slow-cooked, Dijon-rubbed meatloaf – but it also takes the classic Caesar recipe above and beyond.

    99 Blue Jays Way, Toronto, 416-348-0099, gretzky.comFrom: All-Star Bars

What to Do in Toronto

Michael Lee-Chin Crystal and the Bloor St. Plaza

Royal Ontario Museum © 2008

Arts & Culture

  • The Art Gallery of Ontario

    Frank Gehry’s first-ever Canadian structure is an homage to his hometown – in fact, his first exposure to art and architecture was inside this very building. In modernizing it, Gehry has made extensive use of his favourite materials: there’s glass, to bring in as much light as possible, and titanium panels to create organic, moving forms. With 50 percent more space to play with, AGO curators have re-organized the museum collections thematically, from African art to the Group of Seven, by way of contemporary art and photography.

    317 Dundas St. W., 416-979-6648 / 877-225-4246, ago.netFrom: The New AGO Finally A-Go
  • The Gardiner Museum

    Across from the ROM, this museum covers a broad range of ceramics, one of the oldest art forms. It showcases everything from ancient Mayan pieces to contemporary Canadian items to the lesser-known ceramic works of Picasso and Chagall. Meanwhile, Jamie Kennedy has bestowed his culinary gift upon the museum’s in-house restaurant.

    111 Queen’s Park, 416-586-8080, gardinermuseum.on.caFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • The Barbershop Gallery

    Formerly the Zippie Café, this spot has transformed into a bright gallery space with a small studio in the back. Exhibits have included the collaborative project in support of the War Child Canada campaign and a collection of works that paid tribute to Obama in honour of his first presidential visit to Canada.

    1718 Queen St. W., 416-535-2157, parishil.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25

Shopping

  • Ella + Elliot

    This large, airy shop displays a dizzying range of European-made children’s furniture, toys and strollers. Much of the merchandise is exclusive to the store, such as the Kidsonroof cardboard playhouse and replicas of Kay Bojesen’s beloved Danish wooden toys. We love the adorable J Schatz Star Egg nightlight, available in a rainbow of colours.

    188 Strachan Ave., 416-850-7890, ellaandelliot.comFrom: enRoute, December 2007: Top of the Shops
  • Blackstone Organic Meats

    This fabulous butcher shop supports regional agriculture by buying local. In addition to a selection of take-home products, like olive oil, pasta and a wide variety of sauces, there’s a mouth-watering selection of marinated meats, including kebabs made with tandoori chicken or coconut-coriander beef.

    207 Danforth Ave., 416-463-3100, blackstoneorganics.caFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Bookhou

    Husband and wife John Booth and Arounna Khounnoraj run this home décor and design boutique, where pieces range from ethereal handmade wall hangings to minimalist furniture. Their natural fabrics have images that salute the Great White North, like adorable onesies with hand-printed drawings of moose, bunnies and beavers.

    798 Dundas St. W., 416-203-2549, bookhou.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Cartel

    This locale carries the same upscale skater duds as the Beaches flagship store, Identity, but it’s located in the heart of Queen West. Neatly framed or splashed all over the walls, the art contributes to the countercultural vibe.

    498 Queen St. W., 416-362-0220From: enRoute's Top 25
  • Chabichou

    On top of gourmet cheeses, this shop also houses other fine foods like special spices and homemade pâté. To spruce up your sandwich, you get to choose from over 60 varieties of cheese. Also offered is a selection of baguettes and French pastries from the neighbouring Tati Bistro to seal the delicious deal.

    196 Borden St., 647-430-4942, chabichou.caFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Charlie Boutique

    Homegrown fashion prodigy Erin Swan’s first boutique pairs sleek lines with rococo, Marie Antoinette-style wallpaper. It’s the place to score a real find from a number of exclusive collections by talented Canadian designers.

    809 Queen St. W., 647-436-8452, iluvcharlie.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • David’s Tea Shop

    Browse the wide variety of teas (over 100 different types), from oolong to golden pu’erh. You can sip your selection in a porcelain cup or carry it home in pretty packaging, while custom tea kits make the perfect gift.

    336 Queen St. W., 416-506-0653 / 888-873-0006, davidstea.comFrom: enRoute’s Top 25
  • Drake Hotel General Store

    Everyone’s favourite Queen West hipster hotel has launched a shop down the street, and it’s full of quirky gifts. The Drake’s in-house curator, Mia Nielsen, chooses a different artist to showcase in the store each month.

    1144 Queen St. W., 416-531-5042, thedrakehotel.caFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Harry Rosen

    Harry Rosen’s flagship Yorkville store has long been the clothier of choice for Toronto’s Bay Streeters, but an expansion – which made room for Canada’s first Tom Ford Boutique – has brought Harry some contemporary sartorial sophistication.

    82 Bloor St. W., 416-972-0556, harryrosen.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Jonathan + Olivia

    To the delight of fashionistas, the Vancouver-based men and women’s clothing store has set up shop in Toronto. It’s the perfect spot to score garments by Acne Jeans and Opening Ceremony, not to mention New York’s Pamela Love and Sweden’s Whyred.

    49 Ossington Ave., 416-849-5956, jonathanandolivia.comFrom: enRoute’s Top 25
  • Made

    A showcase for young, cutting-edge Canadian designers, Made features home decor items crafted from that most Canadian of materials: wood. The Covello Reesor team creates chairs from reclaimed hardwood and used plywood. The Galiano light by Vancouver’s Propellor Design features a lampshade of Douglas fir; the switch is an arbutus twig taken from Galiano Island. Porcelains, pillows, mirrors – Made is full of objets that are as surprising and smart as they are ecologically sound.

    867 Dundas St. W., 416-607-6384, madedesign.caFrom: enRoute, December 2007: Top of the Shops
  • MoRoCo Chocolat

    Following the customs of Parisian chocolate makers, this dessert oasis makes heavenly homemade chocolate and sinful macaroons. “Let them eat cocoa!” For an indulgence worthy of Marie Antoinette, complement the chocolate with their exclusive champagnes by the glass.

    99 Yorkville Ave., 416-961-2202, morocochocolat.comFrom: enRoute’s Top 25
  • Noir

    Noir offers the poetic, pioneering designs of Yohji Yamamoto alongside the ultramodern minimalism of Raf Simons. But Noir isn’t only brainy fashion. D&G and Roberto Cavalli offer sexy styles with an Italian twist, while Vivienne Westwood’s diamanté costume jewellery is as fun – and stunning – as the store itself, a glittering space of steel and glass.

    151 Bloor St. W., 416-962-6647From: enRoute, December 2007: Top of the Shops
  • Noor

    Nestled under the Four Seasons Hotel Toronto, this gallery-cum-cosmetics counter carries cult beauty products and accessories, including Erno Laszlo’s legendary skincare line. Scents from Penhaligon’s of London may smell modern, but they have impressive pedigrees: The Blenheim Bouquet scent was worn by none other than Winston Churchill.

    176 Cumberland St., 416-928-0700, noorboutique.comFrom: enRoute, December 2007: Top of the Shops
  • Over the Rainbow

    For denim aficionados, nothing compares to the wide range at Over the Rainbow. We especially enjoy choosing from Canadian premium denim brands like Fidelity.

    101 Yorkville Ave., 416-967-7448, rainbowjeans.com
  • One 20 Modern

    Martin Myers, of Quasi Modo Modern Furniture (the second highest of Toronto’s high-design furniture shops), offers an impressive array of exotic items seemingly torn from the pages of Wallpaper. For the daring and wealthy, there’s Fernando and Humberto Campana’s Vermelha armchair. It’s shockingly comfy and appears to be made out of fuchsia spaghetti.

    120 Ossington Ave., 416-537-4400, onetwentymodern.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Swipe Books

    Specializing in books on graphic design, advertising and architecture, Swipe Books shares a restored factory space with other like-minded establishments. The dynamic space houses items like a handmade stool created from 500 balloons and a set of buttons that commemorates Toronto’s subway stations.

    401 Richmond St. W., Suite 121, 416-363-1332 / 1-800-56-SWIPE, swipe.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25
  • Type Books

    This cozy bookshop – possibly the world’s only store with a plotless fiction section (think Samuel Beckett) – is the brainchild of two University of Toronto PhDs. Their tastes run from the whimsical to the heady, as evidenced by the hand-lettered signage and Virginia Johnson’s custom bookbags.

    883 Queen St. W., 416-366-8973, typebooks.caFrom: enRoute, December 2007: Top of the Shops
  • West Elm

    A limb of the sprawling Williams-Sonoma retail tree, this contemporary home furnishings chain has been solving the design dilemmas of chic, young stateside condo-dwellers for years. Its first Canadian store is ideally situated in the heart of King West loft land. Who can say no to Studio B(ish) style on an Ikea(ish) budget?

    109 Atlantic Ave., 416-537-0110, westelm.comFrom: enRoute's Top 25

Getting Around Toronto

Matt Jiggins

Navigating Toronto is easy. You can spend a day on foot in any neighbourhood, cycle along the city’s increasingly comprehensive bike-path network or take advantage of the accessible subway, bus and streetcar systems. Unless you’re planning to travel in the wee hours, drivers should expect a dose of traffic.

Getting from the Airport

There are several different buses that run to and from the airport around the clock to different points in the city. To get downtown, expect travel time to be about 45 minutes. A taxi will get you there for a flat rate of around $40.

Taxis

Taxis are easily hailed anywhere in the city and abound in the downtown core. If you’re on a strict timeline, though, be sure to call in advance. Base rates hover around $4.00.

Public Transportation

The Toronto Transit Commission (TTC) is undertaking a massive project to update and extend the streetcar system that will be known as the Light Rail Transit (LRT) to allow better access to the north, west and eastern parts of Toronto. Regular fare is $2.75 and the current U-shaped subway line will generally get you within walking distance of anywhere centrally located. Maps and schedules are available online. ttc.ca


A Weekend in the Lake Simcoe Area, Ontario

In the time it takes to get to downtown Toronto from the airport you can make it to cottage country. Don’t forget the skates.

By Amy Rosen

“You’re not always going to catch a fish, but a bad day fishing is better than a good day working,” says our guide as he drives along frozen Lake Simcoe, an hour’s drive north of Toronto. The distant buzz of a snowmobile reverberates across a lake studded with ice-fishing huts, while smoke billows from chimneys on the horizon. It’s the kind of Canadian scene that almost brings a frozen tear to the eye. The counties lining Lake Simcoe just might be the last chunk of unchecked cottage country in Ontario, and no one takes themselves too seriously here. Driving into Beaverton to fetch provisions – fish and chips and beer – locals wave from their pickups as they rattle by. But don’t be fooled; these shores are also where Stephen Leacock penned Arcadian Adventures with the Idle Rich.

Who needs Michelin stars when you can get authentic blue-plate specials? At Anchor Family Restaurant in Sutton, the waitresses call everyone “honey” and Saturdays are prime-rib nights. Beaverton Fish and Chips dishes out halibut and haddock with a shatteringly crisp crunch. The secret: “Fresh fish – and we fry in lard.”

Backwoods solitude is found at Sibbald Point Provincial Park, where we slice fresh powder tracks through forested trails. Next winter, Tube Hill Recreation Park will have eight 25-metre snow lanes, while the adjacent Terrain Park already offers jumps for brave boarders.

After skating figure eights on a frozen pond at the Briars, owned by the Sibbald family since the 1800s, we head to the Briars Spa. It’s got all the big-city mod cons you can shake a shea-buttered fist at. Following an exfoliation and the six-jet hydrotherapy treatment, we’re cocooned in blankets. As for digs, you can hibernate two ways – at a lakeside cottage or in front of the wood-burning fireplaces in the Leacock wing.

Catch first-run films in Beaverton at the Strand Theatre, Canada’s oldest movie house. Other local film lore: The campy 1984 Canadian sex comedy Oddballs was shot here.

Pefferlaw Antique Shoppe, tucked away in a rambling 4,000-square-foot building, is the kind of place where you just may come across something worthy of a cameo on Antiques Roadshow. Our find: a 70-piece Art Deco china service.

When open water turns to ice – what locals call hard water – Lake Simcoe becomes a seasonal shantytown. Known as the Ice Fishing Capital of Canada, it plays host each February to the Canadian Ice Fishing Championship. Local outfitters Mitchell’s Fish Huts or Casey’s can hook you up.

  • Where to Stay in Lake Simcoe

    The Briars, 55 Hedge Rd., RR #1, Jackson’s Point, 800-465-2376, briars.ca

  • Where to Eat in Lake Simcoe

    Anchor Family Restaurant 26092 Highway 48, Sutton West, 905-722-4102
    Beaverton Fish and Chips 300 Mara Rd., Beaverton, 705-426-7485

  • What to do in Lake Simcoe

    Canadian Ice Fishing Championship February 23–24, Georgina, 905-722-5425, cifc.org
    Casey’s Fish Huts at Port Bolster Inn, RR #2, Cannington, 705-437-1560
    Mitchell’s Fish Huts Wellington St. (at Lake), Beaverton, 705-426-9482, mitchellsfishhuts.com
    Pefferlaw Antique Shoppe 307 Pefferlaw Rd., 705-437-2079
    Sibbald Point Provincial Park / Parc provincial Sibbald Point 26465 York Rd. 18, RR #2, Sutton West, 905-722-8061, ontarioparks.com
    The Strand Theatre 303 Mara Rd., Beaverton, 705-426-4633
    Tube Hill Recreation Park for details on opening date 888-GEORGINA, town.georgina.on.ca

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    Wednesday, September 1st 2010

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    Thursday, August 26th 2010

    The Bloordale Pantry has taken over a previously dingy corner and injected some much-needed life into the neighbour...
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    Tuesday, August 24th 2010

    The newest location of Oliver & Bonacini Café Grill brings the uptown eatery downtown. Peter Oliver and ...
  • Guu Izakaya

    Friday, August 20th 2010

    The Vancouver-based Guu group has opened its first highly anticipated outpost in Toronto. In the months since setti...
  • Chow Bella Toronto Food Tour

    Tuesday, August 17th 2010

    We’d like to introduce you to the latest incarnation of the concierge: the foodie concierge. Chow Bella offer...
  • Summer Patio Roundup

    Friday, August 13th 2010

    A great way to get to know Toronto is on foot—but when those feet get tired there’s no better place to ...
  • Enoteca Sociale

    Thursday, August 12th 2010

    Owners of the Toronto “it” pizza hotspot, Pizzeria Libretto,have a new bambino. Enoteca Sociale, an Ita...
  • Brunch at The Stockyards Smokehouse & Larder

    Wednesday, August 11th 2010

    The Stockyards, a southern-style barbecue restaurant that came onto the scene last summer, now offers Sunday brunch...

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