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Bar Buca

The drinks card takes up twice the acreage of the food menu at Rob Gentile’s all-day Italian café-bar on Portland Street, but make no mistake: This is a place to come and eat well. You can drop in for espresso with dulce de leche from 7 a.m., but by night the room fills with diners reaching to pluck small fried goodies from the two-tier gran fritto misto platter: everything from bianchetti (young smelts) to the splendid arancino (a fried ball of saffron risotto stuffed with prosciutto and peas). Negronis, along with pinot nero from Lombardy and gaglioppo from Calabria, flow like water but are far more potent.

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