Photo: John Cullen
Five chefs work like mad, right before your eyes, to serve 10 courses to some 22 diners seated around this intimate tasting bar. You might think you have Shōtō, tucked away on the top floor of David Chang’s Momofuku palace, figured out – Oh, hoisin and XO sauce and beef tendon, it’s Asian fusion! – until an Ontario trout with toasted almonds and jalapeño comes along and changes the game. The beverage pairings by sommelier Jonathan Gonsenhauser tend toward the ingenious – spicy spot prawns served with a sake called the “Demon Slayer” is a killer.