Vancouver
Vancouver
Tourism Vancouver
Ask a Vancouverite what they like about their city and the response will almost always be “the lifestyle.” Well, The Economist certainly agrees that it’s a major selling feature – Vancouver is a perennial contender for the top spot in their “World’s Most Liveable Cities” survey – but there’s more to Canada’s newest Olympic city than soy lattes and yoga. With one of North America’s most innovative food cultures, easy access to outdoor adventure, a vibrant arts scene… Ok, maybe it is all about the lifestyle.
Where to Stay in Vancouver
Opus Hotel
Opus Hotel
322 Davie St., 604-642-6787, opushotel.comStill the presumptive hotel of choice for Vancouver’s film and media industries, Yaletown’s Opus is in a category all its own. Though it may no longer be the city’s only real boutique property, nothing yet matches its relentlessly personal service or its effortless balance of colourful, intrepid design and warm, inviting space. Until recently, the biggest advantage of its Davie Street location was proximity to Yaletown restaurants and nightspots, but as of August 2009, it’s now officially the closest downtown luxury hotel to the airport – the new Canada Line Skytrain literally stops right out front and gets you there in 20 minutes.
The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver
900 W. Georgia St., 604-684-3131, fairmont.com/HotelVancouverThe grande dame of Vancouver hospitality, the Hotel Van opened its doors in 1939, just in time for the arrival of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth. That makes it a pretty senior member of what Douglas Coupland calls the “City of Glass.” Adjacent to the Vancouver Art Gallery in the heart of downtown, the Hotel Van – like its sibling, Toronto’s Royal York – feels like the last surviving structure of a glamorous Victorian metropolis that never was.
Shangri-La
1128 W. Georgia St., 604-689-1120, shangri-la.comThis 61-storey monument to Vancouver’s recent induction into the “Global City” club is the first North American property by the fast-growing Asian contemporary luxury brand. Its completion in late 2008 made it Vancouver’s tallest building, but it wasn’t its stature that earned locals’ attention – it was the instant-hotspot Market (by Jean-Georges) restaurant and the Zen-inducing CHI spa. In keeping with its sleek-modern aesthetic, the minimalist hardwood cabinetry in the spacious rooms hides all manner of next-gen electronic wizardry.
L’Hermitage Hotel
788 Richards St., 778-327-4100, lhermitagevancouver.comThe luxe vibe of this boutique hotel, smack-dab in the middle of the city’s shopping core in the Robson Street district, washes over you from the moment you set foot in the lobby. Among its most impressive features is the avant-garde exterior, inspired by architectural trends in Chicago and New York.
Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver
791 W. Georgia St., 604-689-9333, fourseasons.com/VancouverFrom: The Getaways – March 2009Just a 10-minute walk from both the new convention centre and the shops on Robson Street, this property is ideally situated for business or pleasure. The two-storey Yew Restaurant + Bar is a theatre of different dining areas and food styles. Ask for a sea-view room, designed by Forchielli Glynn.
Listel Hotel
1300 Robson St., 604-684-8461, thelistelhotel.comThe Listel is like checking into an art gallery – rooms on the Museum floor feature original works by artists such as Susan A. Point.
The St. Regis Hotel
602 Dunsmuir St., 800-770-7929, stregishotel.comStep into the lobby at the St. Regis and you might just feel like you’ve been transported back to the Roaring Twenties – this intimate space exudes old-time elegance, thanks to the marble floor and counter. But one look at the walls and you realize you’re firmly planted in the present. As part of a recent $11-million makeover, the hotel’s owners infused the downtown digs, built in 1913, with contemporary flair by hanging abstract paintings commissioned from five international artists, including Hilario Gutiérrez. A more hushed palette reigns in the hotel’s bright suites, where grey leather wall tiles provide a classy, timeless aesthetic. The large bathrooms are kitted out with his and her sinks, and the suites’ two flat-screen TVs make jostling for the remote control a thing of the past.
Loden Vancouver
1177 Melville St., 877-563-3622, theloden.comAt the Loden Vancouver you’re never far from the action. This dashing Coal Harbour boutique is steps away from Robson Street shopping and a 10-minute walk from Stanley Park. For when that wet coast rain arrives, the spacious suites, with floor-to-ceiling windows, and bathrooms equipped with dimmable lights and soaker tubs that fill via a waterfall faucet may just prompt you to linger in the great indoors. Look for the little extras, like the water jug filled and placed on the bedside table at turndown service, and cards with clever quotes from Bob Dylan. Start the day with the West Coast’s yoga guru Eoin Finn on the hotel’s yoga channel. And when you eventually head out in the morning, grab a complimentary coffee in the lobby.
Where to Eat and Drink in Vancouver
Fuel Restaurant
Hamid Attie Photography
Where to Eat
Boneta
1 W. Cordova St., 604-684-1844, boneta.caFrom: Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2008Conceived as a let’s-put-on-a-show kind of project, Boneta was created quick and on the cheap for what was originally meant as a one-year lease. But it struck a chord with the scenesters colonizing the Downtown Eastside’s fringes and, if the restaurant’s motto – “Boneta Loves You” – is any indication, the feeling is mutual.
Fraîche
2240 Chippendale Rd., West Vancouver, 604-925-7595, fraicherestaurant.caFrom: Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2008This is what a simple neighbourhood restaurant in one of Canada’s wealthiest postal codes looks like. Expect familiar, traditional dishes cooked with finesse and imagination by a chef with a reputation as one of Vancouver’s finest: Wayne Martin knows his audience and understands how to please them.
The Shore Club
688 Dunsmuir St., 604-899-4400, theshoreclub.caFrom: The Next 20Don’t tell owner David Aisenstat (Gotham, the Keg, Hy’s) that the room looks like a million bucks – the space reportedly cost $8 million. The Rat Pack vibe extends to the menu; think Clams Casino, oyster stew, creamed corn, onion rings and varied hunks of meat. Dapper waiters in butcher’s jackets look as if they could dismember a whole cow should the need arise.
The Taco Shack
1937 Cornwall Ave., 604-736-8226, tacoshack.caFrom: The Next 20Former BC Lions linebacker Daved Benefield was raised in California and wanted to offer Vancouverites a taste of real Cali-Mex tacos. This bright, bare-bones little restaurant is his solution. How’s this for a simple menu? Fish, chicken, meat or veggie in taco, burrito or quesadilla form.
Kingyo Izakaya
871 Denman St., 604-608-1677From: Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2007Walking into this restaurant is like stumbling upon a remote Japanese temple that happens to be hosting a rollicking party. There are loud greetings at the front door, followed by interactive cocktails and dangerous foods. Chef and owner Minoru Tamaru has a playful approach and a fine-tuned palate, elevating the izakaya – a.k.a. Japanese pub – experience exponentially.
Salt Tasting Room
45 Blood Alley, 604-633-1912, salttastingroom.comFrom: Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2007It takes guts to open a restaurant without a kitchen on a street known as Blood Alley and then decorate it like a prison cafeteria. Salt has guts in spades, and we’re not just talking about the sausage. The back wall is a large blackboard with the day’s selection of meats, cheeses and condiments listed in neat handwriting. Choose three items from each category. That’s it.
Ping’s Café
2702 Main St., 604-873-2702, pingscafe.caIn Vancouver’s South Main (SoMa) district, this hip Japanese bistro serves yoshoku (i.e. Western-style) cuisine on appetizer-size plates. Hiding behind the dilapidated facade of a former Chinese restaurant (its namesake) is a completely new interior, designed and created by local talent.
The Greedy Pig
307 W. Cordova St., 604-669-4991, thegreedypig.caThis intimate little spot in the heart of Gastown is quickly gaining a loyal following. Pair the braised Angus short rib on celeriac purée with a robust red or enjoy it after one of the special cocktails by Nick Devine of Cascade.
Market at Shangri-La
1128 W. Georgia St., 604-689-1120, shangri-la.comThe long-awaited Market at the Shangri-La Hotel marks the Canadian debut of celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Jean-Georges interprets seasonal ingredients and the regional palette – a hallmark of his cooking, whether in Paris, Shanghai, or Minneapolis. Let’s hope you find a seat at the musical chair bar.
La Quercia
3689 W. 4th Ave., 604-676-1007, laquercia.caWhen it comes to Italian cuisine, classics never go out of style. This resto serves traditional pasta dishes with a distinctly north-Italian inflection. Co-owner Adam Pegg was among the first Canadians to complete the Italian eco-gastronomy program offered in Jesi, Italy.
L’Altro Buca
1906 Haro St., 604-683-6912, altrobuca.caAndrey Durbach has transformed Parkside, his fine French-influenced West End room, into a second location of La Buca, his wildly popular Italian trattoria. The rich and toothsome green pea and mint agnolotti with braised lamb sauce is perfect for rainy Vancouver nights.
Blue Water Café
1095 Hamilton St., 604-688-8078, bluewatercafe.netVancouver’s best fine dining spot is a sushi restaurant. Actually, we should clarify two points: some people think West is better, and Blue Water is not just a sushi restaurant. But still, chef Frank Pabst’s Yaletown institution is a must-try for anyone who wants to know what progressive West Coast cuisine is all about.
West
2881 Granville St., 604-738-8938, westrestaurant.comAfter the departure of David Hawksworth, the native son who defined Vancouver’s Pacific Northwestern fine dining culture out of West’s kitchen for eight years, Vancouver’s culinary cognoscenti turned their collective backs. But Warren Geraghty is earning back the adulation once so emphatically heaped on this South Granville room, and David Wolowidnyk’s cocktails help to keep the place packed.
Vij’s/Rangoli
1488 W. 11th Ave., Vancouver, 604-736-5711, vijsrangoli.caFrom: Guys and DhalsThat Vikram Vij’s South Granville spot is one of the best Indian restaurants in the world is no secret. What is (and might be one of the better-kept ones in Canadian foodiedom) is that you can eat out of the same kitchen next door at Rangoli, the lunch/take-away sibling restaurant, for half the price and skip the line.
C Restaurant
1600 Howe St., 604-681-1164, crestaurant.comWith views overlooking False Creek and Granville Island (where much of the freshly caught fare is sourced), Chef Robert Clark’s glass-encased, patio-encircled, contemporary seafood restaurant is one of Vancouver’s leading fresh-local-raw-green trendsetters.
Bishop’s
2183 W. 4th Ave., 604-738-2025, bishopsonline.comJohn Bishop is the grandfather of Pacific Northwestern cuisine – everything Vancouver knows about cooking (and eating) BC’s natural bounty was learned from him. Well, maybe not everything. Seafood guru Hidekazu Tojo helped, but before Bishop opened this Kitsilano classic in the late eighties, half-baked re-interpretations of continental classics were all Vancouver’s best kitchens aspired to. Not convinced? Among the city’s culinary stars who cut their teeth in his kitchen are Vikram Vij and Rob Feenie.
Go Fish Ocean Emporium
1505 1st Ave. W., 604-730-5040Go Fish is located opposite C Restaurant on the other side of False Creek – and opposite C on the price spectrum. When it comes to restaurants, ‘small’ is usually relative, but this mighty little take-out fish shack is small by any standard: about half the size of a Yaletown bachelor apartment. Its principal asset? It’s situated right where the fishing boats actually dock. Its signature dish? Delectable fish tacos.
Chambar
562 Beatty St., 604-879-7119, chambar.comExpect Trappist Chimay beer and mussels, both in quantities that would make your health care professional grimace – you could return to this Belgian Crosstown favourite weekly for years and never order anything else. In fact, many do. Others choose not to eat at all, preferring to load up on calories from the city’s most progressive cocktail menu.
Pied-à-Terre
3369 Cambie St., 604-873-3131, pied-a-terre-bistro.caThis modern and reasonably priced 34-seat French bistro on trendier-by-the-day Cambie Street is a neighbourhood restaurant packed with people from other neighbourhoods. With new twists on French comfort foods like foie gras parfait and a bourguignon of beef short ribs, can you blame them?
Tojo’s
1133 W. Broadway, 604-872-8050, tojos.comFor more than 35 years, Hidekazu Tojo has reigned as emperor (or at least Prime Minister) of seafood in Vancouver. A stool at the sushi bar in his West Broadway room – which, unlike the old space, doesn’t look like a set from the Cary Grant version of Madame Butterfly – is still one of the most cherished seats in Vancouver fine dining.
Sun Sui Wah
3888 Main St., 604-872-8822, sunsuiwah.comDim Sum is a hotly contested category in Vancouver – you could spend years comparing the relative authenticity of the Richmond strip mall spots – but if you could only try one, we’d recommend this old standard. Two big selling points: everything’s made in-house and the service is bafflingly efficient. We prefer the South Main location.
Fuel Restaurant
1944 4th Ave. W., 604-288-7905, fuelrestaurant.caBoth sommelier-proprietor Tom Doughty and Chef Robert Belcham boast first-rate fine dining bona-fides earned at upscale institutions like NU and C Restaurant, but Fuel belies its pedigree with its relaxed, unpretentious Kitsilano atmosphere. The inviting vibe makes the quality of Belcham's food – often on par with that of his alma mater – all the more delightful, especially when you realize that, given the reasonable prices, dishes like the smoked Polderside Farms chicken salad, with green apple, hazelnuts, French goat cheese, are great guilt-free weekday lunch options.
Voya Restaurant & Lounge
1177 Melville St., 604-639-8692, voya-restaurant.comA quick glance around Voya reveals a surprising freedom from West Coast design clichés – you won’t find any Western red cedar accents here. Instead, the 80-seat restaurant sports an elegant 1940s décor whose focal point is the three chandeliers. The culinary approach, though, is decidedly more West Coast, with a small menu featuring carefully selected local, seasonal ingredients. A case in point: the spot prawns, served up in a bisque, grilled, fried or as a carpaccio by executive chef Marc-André Choquette. Wash it all down with a wine picked by sommelier and general manager Robert Herman.
Where to Drink
Bacchus Restaurant & Lounge
845 Hornby St., 604-689-7777, 604-608-5319, wedgewoodhotel.comFrom: Canada's Top 15 Hotel BarsThis is the paragon of the old-school hotel bar. Pianist riffing on jazz standards? Check. Roaring fire? Check. If the three-martini lunch still exists, it exists here, although the suits really start to congregate after work when the room is buzzing with bigwigs.
Uva Wine Bar
900 Seymour St., 604-632-9560, uvawinebar.caFrom: Canada's Top 15 Hotel BarsIf the best Vietnamese restaurant is the one with the most Vietnamese people, does that make the best bar the one with the most bartenders? If so, Uva is a contender. The room’s modern décor, with its bold wallpaper and prickly fixtures, is tempered by the building’s historical elements, like the 100-year-old terrazzo floor.
The Irish Heather
212 Carrall St., 604-688-9779, irishheather.comDespite its recent change of address, the reputation of this “boozer,” based on its authentic atmosphere and huge selection of fine ales on tap, definitely precedes it. This Gastown institution is far superior to other imitation Irish pubs that pop up like shamrocks.
Alibi Room
157 Alexander St., 604-623-3383, alibi.caThis eccentric lounge-tavern in Railtown – a little east of Gastown on the water – has a split personality: relaxed after-work spot and raucous late-night haunt. Dr. Jekyll lives on the main floor, where a bookshelf full of old screenplays attests to Alibi’s status as a film industry favourite, and Mr. Hyde lives downstairs, where a DJ spins into the wee hours.
Backstage Lounge
1585 Johnston St., Granville Island, 604-687-1354, thebackstagelounge.comThe stage behind which you’ll find this friendly Granville Island pub is the Arts Club Theatre, so it’s the obvious choice for a post-show beverage, but any excuse to enjoy the local brews and frequent live music here will do.
George Ultra Lounge
1137 Hamilton St., 604-628-5555, georgelounge.comCareful: the tab here mounts rapidly, and not just because of the Yaletown prices. Cocktails are some of the most innovative and expertly prepared in the city.
The Mill Marine Bistro
1199 W. Cordova St., 604-687-6455, millbistro.caEverything about this Coal Harbour pints-and-nachos brewpub is par for the course. Except one: the sprawling patio spills out into the seawall park, making this the perfect setting for a lazy Saturday afternoon watching the seaplanes land.
The Diamond
6 Powell St., di6mond.comA prohibition-inspired bar dishing out Asian-influenced small plates (bánh mì, noodles in lemongrass broth, gyoza). The heritage space, with oversize leaded-glass windows overlooking Gassy Jack square, is the perfect perch for observing Gastown’s weekend party scene, and the cocktails are beautifully crafted.
Opus Bar
322 Davie St., 604-642-6787, opushotel.comIt says something about the character of the hotel (and its guests) that, on a good night, the Opus Bar seems to take up the entire lobby of the hotel. The DJ, often a big LA or New York name staying upstairs, sets up in the lounge and party people flow throughout the first floor of the building. Guests and locals alike treat the bar as a launch pad for a night at nearby clubs like Bar None.
What to Do in Vancouver
The Vancouver Art Gallery
Tourism Vancouver / Al Harvey
Arts & Culture
The Vancouver Art Gallery
750 Hornby St., 604-662-4719, vanartgallery.bc.caMost of the permanent collection is composed of B.C. icons like Emily Carr and Jeff Wall, but the VAG is known of late for some blockbuster exhibitions, like a show devoted to the Dutch masters. And even if that’s not enough to tempt you, the Gallery Café – with one of the best patios in the city – is reason enough to visit.
Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art
639 Hornby St., 604-682-3455, billreidgallery.caBill Reid’s The Spirit of Haida Gwaii, in the airport concourse, is one of the first things visitors see when they arrive in Vancouver. His work is everywhere in this city, but even if you think you’ve had your fill, you shouldn’t miss the 8.5-metre-long Mythic Messengers bronze frieze that highlights this space.
Diane Farris Gallery
1590 W. 7th Ave., 604-737-2629, dianefarrisgallery.comA favourite of serious collectors and casual art lovers alike, this thoughtfully curated contemporary gallery anchors the South Granville art strip. Its reputation for discovering new talent is well deserved.
Arts Club Theatre Co.
1585 Johnston St., Granville Island, 604-687-1644, artsclub.comWith almost a half-century onstage, the non-profit Arts Club is the soul of professional live theatre in Vancouver. It’s also where Canuck actors Michael J. Fox, Janet Wright and Brent Carver got started.
Shopping
Violet
3012 Granville St., 604-569-1514, violetboutique.caGenevieve Allen’s Parisian boutique on South Granville was inspired by designer Vanessa Bruno’s apartment. Restock your closet with hard-to-find French lines, like Bella Jones and Cotélac, Fiorentini + Baker boots (as seen on Mary-Kate Olsen) and heels by Cynthia Vincent’s Twelfth Street.
Yoko’s Haute Coiffure & B-Yu Head Spa
1352 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, 604-926-0911, b-yu.comA $90,000 renovation gave this established West Van salon the green treatment: all the building materials are sustainable, as are the hair products. Indulgences include Shinso body realignment therapy and scalp facials, which can repair damaged hair, prevent hair loss and provide a non-surgical facelift. They’re all the rage in Tokyo.
Blubird
1055 Alberni St., 604-257-0700, blubird.caThis boutique parades the latest fashions from Paris, Milan and New York. If you’re into contemporary chic, the Tibi or Alice + Olivia items are just the ticket. Add a crack team of sales assistants to the equation and you’ve got a perfect new outfit.
Jules and Eve
2009 W. 41st Ave., 604-569-0844, julesandeve.comThis Kerrisdale boutique stocks plenty of party dresses from local and international designers. Jason Matlo’s sultry, form-hugging pieces stand up to famed brands like Betsey Johnson and Sienna Miller’s Twenty8Twelve.
Mandula
214 Abbott St., 604-568-9211, mandula.comHungarian designer Hajnalka Mandula’s Gastown shop comes complete with crumbling tiles and original hardwood floor and mouldings – the 1899-built heritage building is the perfect backdrop for her darkly romantic pieces. We noted a sheer, cream-coloured tunic splattered with blood-red vegetable dye.
Body Politic
208 E. 12th Ave., 604-568-5528, bodypolitic.caYou won’t find any granola at this South Main boutique, specializing in sustainable designs with an urban aesthetic. Discover new-to-Canada lines like Teich vintage leather handbags in bright colours – all vegetable tanned and chrome-free – and Bahar Shahpar, a Brooklyn-based designer of dresses and separates carried by Saks Fifth Avenue.
Momentum Shave Bar
1237 Burrard St., 604-689-4636, momentumgrooming.comGraham Bingham’s West End grooming shop for men has added an old-fashioned barbershop. There are certain things in life every man must experience, and high on that list is a professional hot shave from a master barber.
Walrus
3408 Cambie St., 604-874-9770, walrushome.comThis minimalist, white-on-white store on Cambie carries exclusive pieces like whimsical ceramics inspired by takeout containers from designer Lorena Barrezueta. Owners Caroline Boquist and Daniel Kozlowski both earned their design bona fides at Inform Interiors, the city’s mecca for all things contemporary, before launching their own lifestyle shop.
Ingenue
2821 W. Broadway, 604-716-5733This Kitsilano boutique favouring homegrown, eco-chic labels hits all the right notes. It’s a wonderfully edited mix of our favourite Vancouver indie designers, including Nicole Bridger, Erin Templeton, Elroy Apparel and Dace.
Tom Ford
737 Dunsmuir St., 604-681-3121, holtrenfrew.comA standalone Tom Ford Menswear boutique (the first in Western Canada) has opened at the department store Holt Renfrew. Just for fun, try on a pair of the $990 Japanese selvage denim jeans – the front button is 18-karat-gold-plated, and the pockets are lined with silk.
Getting Around Vancouver
Tourism Vancouver / Coast Mountain Photography
Vancouver is famous for its transportation headaches. Mountains, oceans and rivers impede even the simplest of trips here, but things are looking up: the 2010 Winter Games have given both road and transit development a boost.
Getting from the Airport
It’s only ten kilometers from Vancouver International Airport to downtown, but for years the trip could only be accomplished either by taking two public buses, the $14 airport shuttle or a $30 cab ride. All of these options take between 30 minutes and an hour. That’s why everyone’s so excited that the new Canada Line will connect the airport to the SkyTrain transit network as of fall 2009, reducing the travel time to 25 minutes and the cost to $5.
Taxis
Cabs aren’t the best way to get around in Vancouver, since one trip across a bridge runs up the meter dramatically. Of course, sometimes they’re a necessity. A 15% tip is usually expected and you’re better off calling – you’ll spend 10 minutes trying to hail unless you’re right outside a hotel.
Public Transportation
Until recently it seemed like the SkyTrain light rail network only covered places no one wanted to go, but the addition of the Canada Line, running along Cambie to Richmond, makes it a very efficient way to get around. The only dark spots on the map where you’re still stuck with mediocre bus service are the West Side, the West End and West Vancouver (yes, these are three totally different places). Click here for fares and maps.
A Weekend on Quadra Island, B.C.
In the Gulf Islands, there's always a catch.
Story and photos by Reanna Evoy
A mere 10-minute water-taxi ride from Campbell River leads you to the shores of Quadra Island and your own adaptation of Discovery Channel’s Deadliest Catch. But instead of catching king crabs, your mission is to reel in the king of salmon – the chinook. Around the island, the waters are full of migrating fish chilling out in inlet tidal currents and backwaters, just waiting for the bait. Fortunately, Quadra is also home to the comfy side of sport fishing. For us, that meant relaxing at our waterfront cabin, watching the nightly entertainment – a couple of spotted fawns peeking around the patio and nibbling on tiny red berries. How often can you say, “Bambi’s eating our huckleberries”?
We greet dawn and a cherry Kool-Aid sky at the deluxe April Point Resort & Spa. Head to toe in some serious rubberized rainwear, we’re about to catch wild chinook salmon during a guided fishing tour. At the docks, we hook up with our guide, Ben, fresh from fishing with Antonio Banderas, who tells us, “Anchovies are the secret,” while baiting our line.
The Spa at April Point is a Japanese-inspired retreat perched on Quadra Island’s waterfront. Lounging on the heated outdoor patio, we soak our painted toes in Caribbean scented salts and rose-petal water while sipping Aveda Comforting Tea. The shimmering ponds surrounding the spa catch the afternoon sun, and we begin to adopt island life.
We’re eating translucent candied salmon belly from High Tide Seafoods’ custom salmon smokehouse, but it’s just a snack before devouring a pound of the largest prawns known to man. Where are our bibs? The locals recommend trying Patti’s Lighthouse Restaurant, a boathouse at Campbell River’s Discovery Harbour Marina, and they’re not wrong. We order a platter of steamed shellfish, smothered in white wine sauce and served with focaccia.
We rent cobalt blue scooters and – like a band of mods – take off to explore the lazy island. We can almost hear The Who play as we ride past the Sunday knick-knack market toward Rebecca Spit Marine Provincial Park. The marine provincial park smells like a mix of pine needles and ocean that could honestly be Calvin Klein’s newest scent. We have miles of pebbled beach all to ourselves, except for a few boats moored in the bay. (It’s a popular destination for those boating in Desolation Sound.)
Our hearts are pumping fast. We’re on our own personal roller-coaster ride, also known as April Point’s wilderness zodiac tour. Glacial runoff flows into the surrounding fjords, making the water appear electric green and milky. For the next three hours, we zip through pristine waterways in search of eagles, seals and bears – oh my. Wild cinnamon black bears (aptly named for their spice-dusted coats) snack on blackberry bushes, while 450-kilogram Steller sea lions surface next to our inflatable boat.
Where to Stay in Quadra Island, B.C
April Point Resort & Spa 900 April Point Rd., Quathiaski Cove, 250-285-2222, aprilpoint.com
Where to Eat in Quadra Island, B.C.
High Tide Seafoods 708 Island Highway, Campbell River, 250-850-1086
Patti’s Lighthouse Restaurant G Dock in the Discovery Harbour Marina, 250-287-3957
What to do in Quadra Island, B.C.
Rebecca Spit Provincial Marine Park on the east side of Quadra Island at Drew Harbour env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/rebecca/index.html
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