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Working in the kitchen with his wife Jill, chef Lucais Syme creates plates that are at once restrained and modern – witness the duo of smoked and cured salmon with lemon and yogurt, or the delicacy of a rolled rotolo noodle with Swiss chard and ricotta, served atop a rabbit ragu. An Old World wine list focuses on France, Italy and Spain, with the occasional detour into Portugal for bical and cerceal.

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