10 Temperance St. | 647-348-7000
The official address for the Chase is 10 Temperance Street, which is a bit like the cheeky gag of calling a bald guy Curly. The truer milieu of Steven Salm and Michael Kimel’s intemperate penthouse of fine dining would be Bay Street, a half-block west and home to Toronto’s captains of finance. This is a place, as Alec Baldwin says in Glengarry Glen Ross, for closers only.
If I were a closer, I’d eat here every night until the fund ran dry. Chef Michael Steh doesn’t lean on molecular trickery or audacious ingredients to wow – the scariest thing on his menu is kohlrabi. His food is more direct and more delightful than that: pretty slices of avocado wrapped meticulously around shrimp, set upon a bed of mango and topped with something your flawless waitress calls “coconut bacon,” sweet and smoky and salty.
Everybody in the fifth-floor room, with its Ralph Lauren fabrics and big picture windows, feels like they’ve scored a sweet table. It’s an atmosphere that makes you want to say yes to things – yes to that bottle of pretty white savagnin from France’s Jura, the catnip patch of sommeliers. Yes, damn it, to the $44 Dungeness crab pasta. And yes to that signature chicken-for-two, stuffed with foie gras and Armagnac-soaked brioche and presented whole at tableside in a polished roasting pan.