Chicago, Illinois, United States
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Chicago is far more than deep–dish and wind chill. Hopscotch the dense clusters of museums, shop hip Wicker Park, and keep your head up – the city’s iconic architecture includes works by Frank Lloyd Wright, who started his career here (you can still visit his buildings downtown).
Where to Stay
- Large windows and bold elegance for the suites at the Chicago Athletic AssociationChicago Athletic AssociationFor the buzzy atmosphere
- Colourful mobiles hang from the ceiling in the neutral toned lounge of The Langham in ChicagoThe Langham, ChicagoFor the business amenities
- Art deco accents decorate the suites at Viceroy ChicagoViceroy ChicagoFor the elegant stay
- The modern and minimalist lobby of Ace Hotel ChicagoAce Hotel ChicagoFor the centre-of-everything location
- A queen-sized bed with a full length mirror headboard at The Robey in ChicagoThe RobeyFor the rooftop scene
Eat & Drink
Korean shared plates at Passerotto Chef–owner Jennifer Kim, an up–and–comer on the Chicago dining scene, presents a wholly personal take on Korean fare, which she melds with Italian influences. Case in point: the housemade rice cakes dressed with lamb ragu. Order an array of sharables to start, then finish with the short–rib kalbi, sided with kimchi and other seasonal banchan.
Hot dogs with all the toppings at U.B. Dogs Hot dogs are a Chicago delicacy, and this lunch–only spot serves some of the best in town. Order the classic Chicago, all–beef on an S. Rosen poppy–seed bun, or the house specialty: the Joey dog, dressed with fries and garlic–wasabi aioli. If you don’t fancy a frank, other options include a halal burger and Italian beef sandwich.
Splurge–worthy tasting menus at Smyth With three tasting menus – choose from 7, 12 or 20 courses – dinner at the two–Michelin–starred Smyth is pricey, but worth the splurge. Husband–and–wife team John and Karen Shields have many ingredients grown specifically for them on a nearby farm, and the resulting dishes, which change daily, are an inventive take on Midwestern fare. Reservations are a must.
Freshly roasted beans at Dark Matter Coffee One of Chicago’s best local coffee roasters, Dark Matter has multiple locations (including a new one, Caravanserai, with Mexican drinking chocolate), but the first location, dubbed the Mothership, is a good place to start. Try barrel–aged coffee, or cool down with an iced Chocolate City coffee, served on draft.
Thin–crust pies at Pizzeria Bebu The city may be known for deep–dish pizza, but many Chicagoans are partial to thin–crust pies, making Pizzeria Bebu a true local favourite. The pizzas come decked out with imaginative toppings, like carbonara or spicy vodka sauce. Can’t decide? Order the half–and–half and try two different flavours.
All–day brunch at Baker Miller House–ground flours and grits form the basis for the baked goods and brunch dishes at this cozy café. The oatmeal, topped with cream and jam, is rightly called “famous,” while the ever–changing array of pastries includes scones, cakes and pies. For a tasty souvenir, buy take–and–bake sourdough cinnamon rolls to make when you go home.
Banana daiquiris at Lost Lake Renowned bartender Paul McGee and co–owner Shelby Allison have created the ideal tiki–style escape, any time of the year. Drinks like the frothy banana daiquiri come bedecked with flowers and other Instagrammable accoutrements. Snacks from executive chef Fred Noinaj (try the coconut–shrimp toast or caramel–fish–sauce wings) set you up perfectly for another round.
What to Do
Touring art deco landmarks with the Chicago Architecture Center A river cruise will show you the sights, but understanding the city’s rich architectural history demands closer attention. This 90–minute walking tour through the Loop includes visits to the lobbies of four art deco landmarks, including the quintessential Chicago Board of Trade building, for a more detail–oriented experience.
An urban jungle at Garfield Park Conservatory When Chicagoans need a dose of lushness in the depths of winter, they head to this conservatory – free and open 365 days a year – for lofty spaces filled with palms and ferns (the latter evoking the prehistoric local landscape). Come summer, explore 12 acres of outdoor gardens, including a Play & Grow area designed for kids.
Fashionable boutiques in Wicker Park Milwaukee Avenue in Wicker Park is packed with local independent shops, including Una Mae’s (a destination for new and vintage clothing and home decor), Reckless Records and Volumes Bookstore. Pick up flowers and jewellery at Asrai Garden, or men’s denim at Mildblend Supply Co. Between stops, refuel at Chicago favourite Intelligentsia Coffee.
Artistic masterpieces at the Art Institute of Chicago With thousands of works of art on display, including Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks and Grant Wood’s American Gothic, two wings and special exhibits, it’s easy to lose yourself here for the day. If you don’t have that long, snag a brochure at the entrance that details how to fit the museum’s highlights within an hour.
Locally made homeware at Humboldt House Claire Tibbs has stocked her sunny shop with finds by Chicago makers, perfect as gifts for others or yourself. Find brass cuffs by Lindsay Lewis, speckled mugs by Commune Pottery, and hand–poured scented candles by Tatine Candles. Sister shop Little Peach Fuzz, a block south, features toys and books for kids.
A night of laughs at the iO Theater This comedy club, which also offers improv classes, is the best spot to see up–and–coming acts: alums include Tina Fey, Amy Poehler and Stephen Colbert. Most shows begin with an audience suggestion, then spiral from there. Grab a drink or snack at the central bar post–show and mingle with the performers.
Cheerful vintage womenswear This funky, brightly coloured shop is a popular haunt for vintage–clothing lovers, whether you’re scouring the city for a Victorian blouse or 1970s glitter dress. Clothing sizes range from 00 to 26 – a partnership with Luvsick Plus, which specializes in vintage for curvy women, means you will find inclusive options on offer.
Recommended reads at Unabridged Bookstore It’s hard to leave this beloved store without a tote full of new books, thanks to personal recommendations from staff (on handwritten notes peppered around the shelves), a featured book of the week highlighting lesser–known writers, and a large selection of marked–down titles.
Jazz acts at the Green Mill This more–than–century–old jazz club is legendary – Al Capone was a regular – but somehow manages to be non–touristy. Expect a fresh lineup of jazz acts nightly, plus weekly events like open poetry slams. You can catch music until the wee hours most nights (with some shows running until 5 a.m.), so it’s a perfect stop for a lively nightcap.
Upscale menswear at Independence Owner George Vlagos stocks indie American brands like Ebbets Field Flannels at this upscale menswear boutique. Sift through vintage finds to snag perfectly worn–in Levi’s, or bring home new shoes by Oak Street Bootmakers, Vlagos’ other endeavour.