On Quebec’s Powwow Trail
A Wendat dancer earns the name “Iron Legs” after performing for 17 songs straight at a powwow in Wemotaci, Quebec. Plus, four more Indigenous culture experiences.
It’s September and we’re in Wemotaci, deep enough into the wilderness to have zero cell service or Wi-Fi. Still in my regalia, traditional clothing worn for dancing, I’m eating a piece of the blueberry pie made by a kokum (grandmother, in Cree) and trying not to spill any crumbs onto my satin skirt. Truth be told, I’m on my third slice, and I’m enjoying it way too much to stop. The laughter of children and the sound of bells ringing on the ceremonial outfits donned for the occasion blend in with the songs. The sun is already setting, but that won’t stop the dancing. Far from it.
Indigenous and non-Indigenous people alike are gathered here, at ground level and in the stands, as the master of ceremonies announces that the Iron Contest is about to begin. We’re all in a state of anticipation and excitement, knowing that the physical and mental endurance of the dancers, in several age categories and performing in different styles (jingle dress, fancy, fancy shawl, grass, traditional, etc.), is about to be put to the test in a dance that will carry on until just one participant remains standing. It could last just a few minutes. Or it could go on for hours.
“Are you staying put with us or are you going to give it a try?” asks an acquaintance, flashing a smile with a built-in challenge. I laugh nervously and say, “If I can manage to dance for 15 minutes without stopping, I’ll be very proud.” And then I make my way toward the dance area.
Illustration: Hawlii Pichette
We form a circle. In the middle are the dancers: men, women, two-spirit people; around us are the drum groups that will shift from one song to another, the judges who will gradually eliminate the participants, and of course, the community that forms the audience. A lamppost at the edge of the field provides lighting. The dance will proceed clockwise. Breaks are not allowed. And off we go.
Many people believe this type of competition is about physical endurance, but the real test takes place in the mind. As the music starts up, everything that is not dance begins to fade away. Time loses its meaning. In the blur, I think about my grandmothers as I hear people shout my name and feel pain building in my legs. I nearly burst into tears and give up several times before I finally come to a standstill. Alone.
“Our winner, with a record of 47 minutes, nine seconds and 52 hundredths, or 17 songs… Wow! We’ll call you Iron Legs from now on,” the announcer’s voice rings out from the speaker as the circle closes around me. We’re all here, together. There are congratulations, hugs, jokes about the blueberry pie I loaded up on just before the contest, and young people telling me they’re going to train hard to beat my record next year. And maybe they will, but this feeling of unity, community and unbelievable joy will remain the same.
Powwow Trail — Multiple locations, QC
More Cultural Indigenous Experiences
Photo: Andre R. Gagne
Craft dream catchers and dolls
Nepean, ON
At Mādahòkì Farm, a community hub and refuge for endangered Ojibwe Spirit Horses, make your own dream catchers and corn husk dolls while gaining insight into the history and symbolism behind these traditional Indigenous crafts.
Photo: Melanie Gamache
Turn beads into beauty
St. Genevieve, MB
Learn about the intricate art of Indigenous beadwork and create your own display-worthy piece with Borealis Beading. An artist will explain the origins, uses and significance of various traditional Métis pieces. From there, it’s time to choose your beads and a needle.
Photo: Lemons for Days
Make your own moccasins
Smoky Lake, AB
Led by an Indigenous artisan at Métis Crossing, this workshop teaches traditional techniques to craft your own moccasins using hides, horsehair, beads and embroidery thread. Learn about the footwear’s history while making your own stylish souvenir.
Photo: Tourism PEI/Berni Wood
Weave a traditional drumhead
Lennox Island, PE
Try your hand at traditional drum-making with guidance from skilled instructors within the local Indigenous community on Lennox Island. You will be introduced to the music, culture and heritage of the Mi‘kmaq people while you weave together a moose-hide drum to take home.
