Petit Socco

A decade after enjoying chef Donnelly’s food at his former Winnipeg restaurant Segovia, I still remember his exciting flavours. He’s doing even more with less here, serving four-course menus twice a night, creating a delicious sense of anticipation. Whatever he’s cooking, we’re having.

So, what are we all having? Tempura shishito peppers first, crisp and airy, dragged through house berbere-spiced mayo sprinkled with sesame seeds. Then a giant tostada for two piled high with chopped poached prawns, chunks of sushi-grade tuna, Salvadoran curtido with a jalapeño sting and a cooling base note of avocado crema. Buttery cubes of pork belly are unearthed from beneath a bright and acidic mound of panzanella made from Donnelly’s own sourdough, juicy tomatoes and nectarines, and a zingy lime vinaigrette. There’s olive oil cake for dessert, with homemade strawberry-rhubarb ripple ice cream and almond praline crunch. I’ll remember Donnelly’s panzanella for another decade.