Rizzo’s House of Parm

The retro shakers on the tables here are stepped up with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and homegrown chili flakes (careful, they pack some heat). Hefty mozzarella sticks with a fresh marinara dipper are the best I’ve ever had, crisp and gooey with a cheese pull that could stretch all the way to the mirror-backed bar. Matty’s Salad is a satisfying old-school Italian classic, and in summer the gem lettuce comes from his nearby Blue Goose Farm. So do those marinated hot and sweet peppers we order as a side. Saucy, cheesy, broiled and burbling, the namesake Parms are chicken, eggplant or veal in white au gratin ovals for mamma mia goodness, while tagliatelle with Matty’s Bolognese (half beef, quarter veal and pork) is as decadent and delicious as Sunday dinner at nonna’s.

We’re more than full but we can’t skip dessert: a big brownie à la mode, with purposefully neon green commercial mint-chocolate chip ice cream. Because if we’ve learned anything from Matty, it’s that nothing tastes better than a big bowl of nostalgia.