Wild Blue

Past the polished wooden entrance, the dreamily dark room is a party every night. RiRi is playing, big tables of parents, kids and grandkids are digging into morel risotto and nose-to-nose dates are sipping Okanagan’s Le Vieux Pin.

Our hilarious waiter Jason pours a gentle habanada-ginger dressing around North Shore tataki, and it hugs the seared tuna like a favourite sweater. Roasted sablefish, fatty as a pastrami sandwich, is even more luscious in a delicate sauce made from its roasted bones. We head to the second floor – all pop art and strategic mirrors – to take selfies and use the custom rosemary-peppermint handwash before Jason returns with dessert. He sets it down warning that warm plate plus salted caramel ice cream equals sticky toffee pudding ticking time bomb, so enjoy at once. He doesn’t need to tell us twice.